I replaced mine and like you said ^^^^ it still happens once in a while. I figured this weekend ill try the wire ties ��

 

Just did the wire tie trick we'll see if that works hopefully it does.

 

Sorry to revive this thread 2 months after thr last reply......but my idea to bypass having to readjust the ignition or put a ziptie, i was thinking about installing a push button start that still needs the key in the on position. Has anybody done this to bypass this specific problem?

 

I wouldn't worry, it makes more sense to continue this thread than start another one.

I'm pretty sure that I've seen someone install a pushbutton start like your suggestion. I don't know that it's on this discussion or a different one. I've read a lot of posts through my searching this topic. I would suggest searching "push button start" or something like that. It makes sense to think of bypassing the whole relay system for the starter motor. Good luck.

An an update on my car, I got on here when my 04 Ralliart began to not start until the second time of activating the key. I pulled the relay out, sprayed in some contact cleaner, and re-installed it. I then took the column covers off to look at the ignition switch, but it didn't look like the ones in the photos on this discussion, so I just put it all back.

I haven't had any trouble for several months, but it's a lot cooler (even in Florida) this time of year, so I'm waiting to see what happens when the hot weather returns. That seems to have been a factor in some of the cases of this.

 

^ There is a OEM push button on saw on here a few years back from Mitsu

 

Interesting proposal on adding the push buttons start. But wouldn't that bypass the clutch interlock switch and allow the car to start while in gear without having to depress the clutch?

 

Well on my car i actually unplugged the clutch switch so i can start my car without the clutch depressed LOL! But i only did that because my throwout bearing was on its way out and i was trying to prolong it just a little longer. I did end up changing the clutch and bearing last month though.

But i was thinking on installing one of those pivot buttons that still require you to have the ignition key to the on position.

 

I have a '07 Honda Civic that I bought recently. One day, it wouldn't start. It wouldn't even attempt to crank. Sometimes I heard a click, other times the pump priming. However, when the key was turned to accessory, I had power to everything. The headlights were bright. That was a big clue, but I still didn't know what the problem was. The car sat for over a month, as I researched possible causes, online. I found that this problem was prevalent with Hondas. There were so many stories of people who were desperately spending hundreds of dollars on car parts, and baffled auto mechanics, who were trying everything but without results. I spent countless hours reading forums, as my undriveable car sat in the driveway, until I was directed to Ted B.'s post. As soon as I read it, I knew this was my problem. Within minutes, my car started, and I've had no problems since. I turn the key with a little less "enthusiasm" now days, so hopefully it keeps the switch from moving. But if it does, I know how to fix it now. Ted, you are awesome. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. You saved me a lot of money and frustration. I feel sorry for all those Honda owners who still don't know why their cars won't start. Sending you big xoxoxoxxo!!!

 

Did upgrading to a heavy duty relay fix your starting problems permanently? I've narrowed my problem down to not getting enough current to start the car. Thanks

 

I'm about to put a heavy duty relay on my evo. When I got my relay I looked at the diagram and it doesn't match the one on Post 148 numbers 85 and 86 are switched along with 87a and 87. My question is will the wiring still be the same? Or will it have to be slightly changed.

Original post:
So, our connections are as follows:

- Starter relay pin (#5) side of Blk/Red wire to 85

- 86 to Ground

- 30 to BAT+

- Other side of Blk/Red wire to 87

 

So, have you found my posts yet?
If you search this thread for posts made by my username, then look at my posts on April 28, 2015, and April 17, 2013, you'll see what I did. It was and still is my preferred solution, but this is on a 1990 Talon. The way I did it turned into a major project. Most people won't want to go to that much trouble for it but I love it.

 

Thank you, Ted B and Evom. I've had this warm starting issue for about 2-3 years, and it would only happen in the summer. Last week, the issue started again for the season, and instead of trying to wait it out in the parking lot of a grocery store, I merely remote started it using my alarm keyfob to confirm bypassing the starter switch, and bam, she started. Later that night, I took my steering wheel cover off and sure enough, the screw was loose. Here's how little my starter switch rotated, and it was just enough to cause these issues in the summer:


I tightened the screw and zip tied it to the steering column as others here have done. Let's hope I never have starting issues again!

 

Thanks for the video. I guess I'll proactively do this.

 

I posted on this thread in February, when my 04 Ralliart was doing this. No further problems until today, but the hot weather is definitely here now in FL. We'll have a tropical system pass over us tomorrow.

I looked at the ignition switch the last time, but it didn't look at all the same as the Evo switches in this thread. I unplugged the relay and cleaned the contacts with some contact cleaner spray, and didn't have any more trouble until today.

 

This may be a really dumb question, but which pin is #5. I want to try this jumper wire method.

And another dumb question, but what type of wire do we use for a jumper?

This problem has been annoying me for years. I've already ziptied my starter switch in the steering column, but this summer, the issue seems to be worse.