I've been having issues with my 5858 bb turbo smoking and burning through oil, got it as part of my MAPerformance vband kit. I went ahead and gave Precision a call and before I was even done describing the issue, their rep began blaming my setup (without hearing what it was). He told me it must be that the turbo can't drain oil properly or that I have to much crankcase/PCV pressure. I've checked that all the oil lines are the correct size and positioned correctly and have a Driven catch can that vents my crankcase and PCV. When I told him that, he told me to simply check it all again, the setup was causing the issue. So where do I go from here? Almost don't want to even bother sending the turbo in, if that's their attitude then I already know they'll insist their turbo is perfect and that it's my fault. Anyone successfully deal with Precision before?

 

I would start by contacting MAP. They sold it to you, let them be aware of the issue. Let them deal with Precision.

 

Are you updating your 18k experiences somewhere?

 

Getting a tune on june 5th. Expect a thread that night

 

Went through this exact issue on a local Evo X. The catch can setup IS the issue. The VTA catch can doesn't pull enough pressure out of the crankcase. The lines need to be recirculated like stock, but just using bigger lines. The car in question here in Vegas had the Drivenfab setup FWIW... He removed it, and went back to a recirculated setup and the smoking turbo stopped smoking.


Here is the thread:
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...58-issues.html


A turbo that is smoking due to an actual mechanical issue will have excessive shaft play, like, wheels touching the housings excessive.

 

This is what I've been researching today. I want to try reverting it to a similar setup to stock. What was the final solution for that car? I'd like to still run a a catch can or air oil separator, how would I do that?

 

Also, would routing like stock relieve enough crankcase pressure? I know that I'll want to pull vacuum in the crankcase, but under load how does it get rid of pressure?

 

The final solution for that car was the one ETS posted in that thread. You could add a cath can to those lines instead of making the direct from the valve cover to the intake and intake manifold.

 

ok yeah I have that thread saved. Just any catch can will be fine in between? Does Drivens AOS do the same thing as their setup? Robert from ETS had mentioned to me that it might

 

hmmm, so you are saying I shouldn't run my STM VTA breather with my PT5858 BB?

 

Funny, i've been researching catch can setups all damn day. I'm trying to figure out the best setup possible. I currently have an AGP catch between the valve cover and intake manifold, it is sealed and not vta in any way shape or form. I'm trying to decide if I want to add another sealed can between the valve cover and the intake/turbo or if I want to cap off the nipple on the intake and have the valve cover vta. I'm so lost as I've spoken with multiple tuners and I get 50/50 answers of whether or not to vta or recirculate it and which method is better.

 

Here's my setup for reference for the PCV side. Pardon the dirty valve cover

 

So here's my question in regards to the rear crankcase vent.

Do I:

A.) Leave the setup how it is with just a single 3/8 lines connecting the crankcase vent to the intake
B.) Install another AGP catch can between the crankcase vent and the intake (recirculated)
C.) Install the AGP valve cover breather (VTA)

Here's the AGP valve cover breather

 

So yours is like the sealed radium it looks like.

I'm glad this came up because this helps me a ton as I will soon have a working engine with a PT5858 BB attached to it.

Bummer I already spent $$$$ on a STM vented can.

 

Here's the thread with the post by ETS that was mentioned

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/evo-x-engine-turbo-drivetrain/735719-pt5858-issues.html