umm, i dont think you realize I dont have a voice button.

 

I just did the audio controls only and extended the AWC harness so that I could put the AWC switch in the dash. I put it where the ASC switch was and moved the ASC switch to the right where the blank was as I thought that they were easier to see that way. The whole thing was a piece of cake and took an hour or so.

Mine had T-30 torx bolts as per the original instructions, and they were tight as hell.

A big thanks to antics22 for the very helpful how-to, and also to mrdecibel for the helpful detail on moving the pins in the connector under the console!

 

The only connector for the AWC switch is the one in the center console under the cubby. If you want to relocate the switch to the dash you have to cut the wires to that connector and add additional wire between where you cut and the plug.

I found a nice "security system" cable at Home Depot that consisted of four 18g twisted strand copper wires in a single outer casing that worked perfectly. Having them in a single casing made it nice and clean and easy to route. It took around 4.5-5 feet to go up along the left side of the console and then across underneath the steering column and up to the switch location. For the actual connections I stripped the ends, twisted them tightly and used heat shrink tubing to seal and secure them. I then used a section of heat shrink tubing over all four and the end of the cable casing to seal it tightly. Worked great.

 

^ did you still have to remove the entire steering wheel and the long carbon fiber looking moulding on the dash to get to the switches?

 

You do have to remove the steering wheel, but not the moulding. Removing the wheel really was a piece of cake. The lower panel to the left of the wheel where the headlight and ASC switches are just has one screw and a couple clips to pull it down and expose that switch panel to install the new AWC switch.

 

JWA,

thanks for the info.

if i dont want to relocate the AWC to the dash then there is not cutting and splicing of wires. i plan to just put the AWC to the center console, where it has been discussed here that there is actually a socket waiting for the AWC switch.

 

Yep, exactly. That's the socket that I had to extend. The one in the steering wheel is reused for the new audio controls. If you just put it in the center console you the need the extra parts, but it will be even easier.

I still don't understand why Mitsu would put the AWC switch on the wheel in the first place and am glad that someone (antics) figured all of this out.

 

I wonder if I can get a male/female pair of the connector plugs located in the center console.

With those, I could craft a purpose-built extension cable for relocating the AWC switch to the dash. No cutting or splicing. That would be ideal. Anyone know if that's a standard plug of some sort, or where I may be able to source spares?

 

Yeah, that would be ideal, but I figured that it would be way more work trying to track down those specific connectors then to do it right and leave yourself room to reconnect it if you ever needed to. The male connector might be available separately, but as the female end is typically part of the switch itself I don't know if one exists.

 

Wow, I just ran across this. I'm trying to decide if I'll do the bluetooth, but I'm definitely putting the audio controls in. I assumed every car now days had this. I even test drove and bought the car, and didn't realize there were no audio controls until the drive home.

Question....those of you that have done the bluetooth mod, is it worth it, or should I save my money and continue using my bluetooth headset?

 

Well, there are a couple reasons that I have to have BT integrated:

1. phonebook dialing (which kinda blows on the Mitsu system because you have to add all the entries manually vs. a BT sync -- but it's because it uses voice recognition to figure out who to call)
2. seeing who's calling without looking at the phone (if you've got the nav not sure what it does otherwise)
3. Not having to wear an ugly ill fitting headset

 

Thanks to Antics22 I now have Bluetooth.

The write up was spot on except for I didnt need to get the module recognized at the dealers as it was recognized immediately.

The worst part was making the voice control switches fit the wheel - everything else is a walk in the park.

I offered the switch up to the plastic section of the wheel that needs cutting, marked around the switch (it is a little smaller than the cut-out marks on the wheel) and then went at it with a dremel to rough it out and then finished it up with a craft knife.

Finally, I didnt trust using glue on this kind of plastic so I fabricated a small metal strap that uses the fixing holes on the voice control switch to secure it into the wheel as per the attached picture.

Thanks again to Antics22

 

Has anyone tried the Bluetooth with an iPhone? I'm considering doing this, but only if it works with the iPhone. Not all Bluetooth headsets work with the iPhone so that's why I'm curious if this mod would work for it. Thanks in advance!

 

I'm in the same boat Nakedsnake. I too have an iphone. I am doing this regardless since sometimes my fiancee drives the car and I want the audio controls anyway but it'd be nice to know.

 

I have an iPhone and it works well with the Bluetooth install. Obviously the visual voicemail dosent work but if you call yourself you can get to your voicemail the traditional way and then use the voice prompts to control.

Check out your user manual for how to use the Bluetooth kit.

Check out Mitsus website if you want to be sure your phone will work with the kit:

http://www.mitsubishicars.com/MMNA/jsp/owners/index.do#

Click on the handsfree link on the bottom left of the page.