Ultimate Rattle & Noise Fixes for Evo X
#61
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Fairfax
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I still have my warranty and they have been about checking it so far I'm gonna take it in again tomorrow and let them have another go at it. It wouldn't matter so much if i didn't drive 400 miles a week just back and forth between work and home. That wheel time needs to be relaxing
#63
Newbie
I was getting a serious rattle from the airbag by your knees under the steering wheel. I took that panel around it off, unbolted the airbag module, carefully rotated to see all the tabs and added felt and felt pads anywhere they were loose or making noise.
This was the worse one in my car so far and it is all gone now.
This was the worse one in my car so far and it is all gone now.
I have to say, this is car has the most rattles/buzzes/pops of any car I've owned save for a crappy '89 Ford Taurus. Pretty disappointing when after six months its as bad as the nine year old Mazda it replaced.
Last edited by Jeffredo; Nov 4, 2011 at 01:14 AM.
#65
I also need these two fixes as well. Not sure if the passenger side is the bluetooth but both are horrible with my testpipe and exhaust.
#66
Ok, I've noticed lately that in my car a weird humming/vibration noise coming from the shifter area, and is prominent in 3rd gear around 3k.
It is not drivetrain related, in neutral when I rev it to about 3k and keep it steady, it seems to appear, its not overly loud or obnoxious, just makes me mad.
Anyone have a fix for this? Maybe the felt near the shifter?
It is not drivetrain related, in neutral when I rev it to about 3k and keep it steady, it seems to appear, its not overly loud or obnoxious, just makes me mad.
Anyone have a fix for this? Maybe the felt near the shifter?
#67
Evolved Member
My son's 2011 Evo X rattles horribly in the glove box area and also the passenger door area. I have to say that I am disappointed in the amount of rattles there are in such a new car. My Evo X has a squeak in the radio area that drives me crazy. I am about ready to get a manual on how to remove the dash and redo the whole thing with proper sound deadening.
#68
Ok, I've noticed lately that in my car a weird humming/vibration noise coming from the shifter area, and is prominent in 3rd gear around 3k.
It is not drivetrain related, in neutral when I rev it to about 3k and keep it steady, it seems to appear, its not overly loud or obnoxious, just makes me mad.
Anyone have a fix for this? Maybe the felt near the shifter?
It is not drivetrain related, in neutral when I rev it to about 3k and keep it steady, it seems to appear, its not overly loud or obnoxious, just makes me mad.
Anyone have a fix for this? Maybe the felt near the shifter?
#69
This is a different issue than the rattling in 5th gear, correct? Or is the same part making the noise?
#71
#73
One thing I've noticed about some of my rattles, they have just seemed to have gone away.
#75
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I'm not sure if this has already been posted but it helped solve one of the many NVH issues on my car.
Symptom: Clunk in dash/firewall like a hammer hitting an area center/high on the firewall. This usually occurred when going up/down driveways diagonally.
Cause: The two bolts on center mounting point of the front strut bar were ~1/16th of a turn loose.
The clearance in the strut bar center mounting holes is very large. Due to daily driving, the bolts worked themselves loose and the bar was allowed to move relative to the bolts. This caused the strut bar to impact (clunk) the bolts whenever the chassis twisted (going up/down driveways).
Fix: Remove bolts, add loctite, reinstall, and torque. Btw, I recommend torquing the bolts to the same value as the nuts on the struts (33 ft-lbs). I don't know why they specify 17 ft-lbs because the thread size/pitch is the same as the ones on the struts.
Tools Required:
14mm socket
Ratchet
Blue Loctite
Torque wrench
Problem solved
Symptom: Clunk in dash/firewall like a hammer hitting an area center/high on the firewall. This usually occurred when going up/down driveways diagonally.
Cause: The two bolts on center mounting point of the front strut bar were ~1/16th of a turn loose.
The clearance in the strut bar center mounting holes is very large. Due to daily driving, the bolts worked themselves loose and the bar was allowed to move relative to the bolts. This caused the strut bar to impact (clunk) the bolts whenever the chassis twisted (going up/down driveways).
Fix: Remove bolts, add loctite, reinstall, and torque. Btw, I recommend torquing the bolts to the same value as the nuts on the struts (33 ft-lbs). I don't know why they specify 17 ft-lbs because the thread size/pitch is the same as the ones on the struts.
Tools Required:
14mm socket
Ratchet
Blue Loctite
Torque wrench
Problem solved