personally i would remove the fp green turbo and try to see how much the car would make on the stock unit... if the power is close or even more then the turbo is the problem...

also...did you check the cams/timing belt? maybe the timing is of from the original position thus giving less power...

did you check the turbo and the manifold if they are a good much? maybe again the turbo is bottlenecking thus giving less power, but again you would have higher egts i think...

with the turbo down i would also check the o2 housing... maybe there is a restriction there...

maybe the intercooler is too small? but again you are at least 50whp down and blaming the intercooler its not right...

I would pay the extra money and check my power on another turbo, preferably the stock unit... maybe the compressor wheels are messed up in the Green thus having much less flow than they should... I mean thats the only thing that makes sense... Everything is perfect but even with higher boost the turbo just cannot provide the flow...

 

Best of luck in resolving this....I know many have been happy with their Green. Hopefully its something simple.

 

Well to be quite honest, it's probably better to have a car with a major issue like 50 whp rather than a car making 10 whp lower. Once you start tearing things apart I'm sure the problem will be easy to find. Not as easy as a 10 hp issue. We know your engine is healthy.

 

If I had to guess I would say its something in your parts combination.

To be totally honest and not putting anyone down but throwing parts at a car from a bunch of different places is really the worst thing you can do when building a car and wanting true performance out of it. Each companies parts are designed to work at their full potential with the other parts from that company. Putting pieces in the mix from here and there has the potential to hinder the overall goal with the car. This may be what you are seeing now.

Despite some people's beliefs not all parts work the same.

My suggestion would be to start with the intake and exhaust. You can remove exhaust components such as the test pipe and catback to see if there are any restrictions there. Next would be to swap a buddies intake onto the car to see if a different intake would help.

Boost leak is a no brainer and im sure its been done.

Im not certain on what kind of dyno Speed Element has but those #'s do seem low even if it were here on our Mustang dyno. Also remember 91 octane is def. not the best thing to run but I know its all you guys have. Maybe throw some 110 in with the 91 to raise the octant levels a bit.

To be honest.... I would have recommended you to go with a pair of cams and an upgraded FMIC before doing a turbo upgrade.

Take care!

 

Jarrod, I know you know your stuff, but there have been many threads from different tuners stating that good power can still be made when mixing and matching parts. And to be quite honest, a 50 whp difference because of an exhaust??? I don't care if it necks down to 2" in a certain area, it's not costing you 50 ponies! I can see how putting certain no brainer parts on the car can cause problems with other parts, but it doesn't sound like the OP did anymore mixing than the average Joe does.

 

I'm going to say it's the turbo. I would take it off and either put your stocker on or borrow one and see. If there's fuel, spark, and compression is there....I don't see why there would be anything els to point a finger at when you've diagnosed every other posible cause.

 

I never said that you cant make power while mixing parts. I was just stating that in some cases it is not the ideal thing to do.

Bottom line is there is a problem somewhere.... I was trying to give him ideas on where to find it.

As for the exhaust... we have swapped out a few "mixed" exhausts to our system and seen gains of 20-30whp but I dont want to turn this into a debate thread. Unless questions are asked to me in general I will stay out of here just so there is in confusion.

Just trying to help!

 

The target timing / map / and actual timing is actually very close to what I normally run on this setup.

This is comparing to a car thats been back to back between my dyno and the GST dyno where it made about 320 on both machines.

On the last log it had zero knock running about 4 degrees at peak boost and 9 degrees at peak hp.

Boost was at 22-23 psi @ 3800 tapering to about 20 psi @ 6800-7000

Any more timing in the map would result in less actual timing because of timing being automatically pulled by the ECU's knock sensor.

 

That is your compression #'s?! The last 2-3 times I have done a compression test on the Evo it was between 170-180 arcoss the board, stroker engines would be slightly higher, 180-190ish, maybe more depending on the pistons used.

I think that you have some serious blow by from worn piston rings or slightly bent valves. (Like maybe a timing belt job gone wrong and bent the valves on one camshaft)

Do another compression test, but this time drop a Mobil1 oil cap full of oil into each cylinder and let sit for a min or two before testing. If the numbers go up the I would say that the issue was with the pistons.

I had bent valves and was able to put down 315ish horse power, but 2 weeks later when trying to diagnos a starting issue, I found that my compression numbers was: 175, 65, 75, 120 Pulled the head and found that the exhaust vavles were bent on #'s 2,3,4 Intake on 2,3.

 

From reply #43

The specs for the EVO 9 are different than the EVO8 on the compression test.

But to add, perhaps a leak down test would be better to determine the health of this engine.

 

+1 sabastian, in fact, I'm in the process or putting mine back together due to the same problem.

 

How does the turbo spool? Is it overly slow?

I ran into a same sort or problem last week with a car that came from out of state. Came in and made no power at all. When I datalogged it showed like 20 counts of knock with WI.

After all was said and done came to find out the guy that brought the car for his friend put 87 in it. Once we got the gas out of it and got fresh gas in it cleaned up.

I know that you said there was no knock, but something is a miss.

Did you check all the basic's : Oil, coolant level, things like this?

The only reason I ask is becasue I did a tune in GA where the dealership overfilled oil by 4 quarts. When drained it picked up like 40whp from less rotational drag on the crank.

I know it sounds strange but strange things happen to cars sometimes.

Good Luck,
Mitch Mckee

 

Haha, I read the entire thread then I see Jarrod posted here on page 4 with the same basic thing I was going to say. Below is the parts list you listed and my responses:

-FP GREEN Turbocharger
good
-PTE 780cc injectors
good
-Agency Power fuel rail
not needed
-Walbro 255lp
good
-Buscher Upper intercooler pipe
good
-Buscher ported and coated exhaust manifold
good
-AMS Lower intercooler pipe
good
-Apex'i inate with induction box
not needed, open would have been better
-TiTek O2 sensor hosing
I haven't seen one but there are a BUNCH OF JUNK HOUSINGS OUT THERE
-Perrin 3" downpipe
If there is no reducer in it, then good
-B&B test pipe
This should be full 3" all the way through, if so good.
-Espelir catback exhaust
I can't remember for sure but I believe we have tested this against ours and it gots its butt kicked horribly. Check for reducers, resonators and the inner diameter of the muffler. I think you have a turd here but am not sure.
-GReddy Profec II Spec B boost controller
A manual would have been cheaper and easier.

Now, you probably could care less about some of those comments but check the parts anyway.

Then here is the important part. Before EVER considering adding the Green turbo you absolutely should have added a FMIC and cams.

There is someone else in the Cali area who dyno'd their Green about a year ago on 91, he also was pissed off. I told him these same things and he finally made the changes. He ended up putting down over 400 at Tuning Tech. I cannot remember his screen name..........getting old I guess.

The combination absolutley makes a difference and not having the correct base parts on the car before adding a turbo makes an even bigger difference. It would have surprised me more if your car DID perform well rather than not performing well.

 

There's something wrong other than his combination/brand name of parts, thats for sure. You can't blame that much of a power loss just because his mods aren't all bought from the same company. I have an espilier exhaust and produced 310 whp with my stock turbo setup. I'd say get a better tuner, get some 93 oct., and get at least a fmic.

 

Thanks for the suggestions i will consider.
and here for the reply
-Agency Power fuel rail
not needed
I bought this one because i messed up my stock fuel rail.
-Apex'i intake with induction box
not needed, open would have been better
will remove the box
-TiTek O2 sensor hosing
I haven't seen one but there are a BUNCH OF JUNK HOUSINGS OUT THERE
It looks like a good quality piece (i wanted to get the one you guys (Buschur) sell but you did not have and ETA on it had no other choice)
-Perrin 3" downpipe
If there is no reducer in it, then good
No there is no reducer.
-B&B test pipe
This should be full 3" all the way through, if so good.
Yes it is full 3"