The turbo spools normaly. stock like lag. Oil and coolant level were checked and are fine.

 

Again, if you have nothing of use to add to the thread, please STFU. Andy is a well-regarded tuner in the Bay Area, and you show your ignorance by suggesting something is wrong with the tune.

Now, back to our regularly-scheduled second-guessing...

 

I am a POSTER child about mixing and matching parts. Jarrod is correct, and has a great solution, to trying to solve this problem. Work backwards,should be a simple answer. Good luck.

 

did all the parts go on at once, did u feel any difference at a certain point

 

Wouldn't the tuner have first hand experience with the car and would be the best person to ask what's posted in the first post? Bla bla bla... stop posting and start trouble shooting... otherwise we're all going to be guessing

 

If you are going to bash me atleast please read thru the thread so you can be on track with the conversation.

You made 310 whp good for you. That's great.

The dyno we are running is a Dyno Dynamics AWD

Stock an EVO9 puts out 230 whp.

Stock an EVO8 puts out 210 whp.

290 whp BPU EVO9 in nice weather and a good driver runs 11.9 @ 114 on pump gas

355 whp BPU EVO9 on c16 runs 11.5's @ 119 mph

How does your 310 whp stack up to this?

Thanks, Andy

 

3rd or 4th gear pulls? you have a 5 or 6 speed?

What correction factor?

Post pics of the map so we can see curves, it might better help us understand and diagnose your issue.

 

4th gear

Dyno Dynamics

Ramp Rate 150

correction factor 0

 

Bobrik,

Alot have been said by a lot of knowledable people but please give me the benefit of the doubt and give a try to a few of my tips, here they go:

- Sparkplugs, try copper NGKs BPr8
- Make sure your gas cap is fully tight (trust me), they can throw an unfriendly CEL
- Recheck your IC piping, clearly you mess with them, you might be obtaining you projected boost but if you have a leak the turbo might be trying harder thus running out of efficiency which means more heat(hot air) and actually killing your performance
- Try a different gas
- Have then re calibrate the Dyno
- Give some time to cool down the car, spray the IC with water

Best of luck and please let me know, I am not a tuner but I had many many turbo cars and I am very familiar with the silly symtons associated with the dynos.

How is the spool up? a dynograph will tell me a lot. I recently had multiple exhaust leaks(3 to be exact) on my ex Evo III turbo on my Eclipse, the gaskets were leaking from the downpipe to o2 hosuing, from the o2 hosuing to the hot side and from the header to the turbo header collector.

These 3 leaks were hardly audiable and noticeable but I was able to spot them, since you change the turbo, the o2 housing and the downpipe then you might have the same exact symtoms as I had, slow spool up.

Carlos

 

Buy a FullRace Twinscroll 30R turbo kit, problem solved.

 

Try third gear pulls, I think the six speed still hits 1:1 closest to 4th gear. 5th and 6th just reduce from there. Third gear pulls man third gear pulls.

Post pics of the curves and afr's on the dynosheet.

And +1 on rex2ev's suggestions, therin your problem lies.

 

Bro I would have my car re-tuned by a different person or have them look at your tune again. There is no way that the FP green is to going to produce more. I'm telling you its going be your tune.

 

Without logging there is no proof of that. Andy is a great tuner and has done many cars here in the Reno area as well with great results and i personally cant wait to get mine done as soon as i get more mods. Im sure they also monitored for knock and such as they were doing the pulls.

 

I am curious why this car made 270 at 24psi on 91 and apparently the shop IX made 307 with the stock turbo. What parts (other than the Green) are different between the cars? I cant see the tune being to much different overall at that low of a boost level, other than the injectors is it pretty close?

Injectors are scaled correctly, with fuel trims being within reason (+/- 5%)?

I dont tune 91 octane cars, but 92 octane cars can run 4* at peak torque and still run 13* by redline with 11.5:1 AFR's. How much fuel is being thrown at it by redline?

IS the boost only being verified by the Profec or a shop MAP sensor?

When was the last time the dyno WB sensor was replaced and how often if at all does it see leaded gas if it hasnt been replaced?

You dont need to post the tune or logs, but what load (2byte preferred) is the car running in at peak torque and at peak power/redline?

 

your catback is more than fine... i run a cutout in my testpipe.... closed i only lose around 10-12whp running 30-32 pounds....

If andy's numbers are accurate then seems like you're where you should be. I suggest taking it to the track and finding out. Fmic is a good idea, but not a asap part.... Cams you should have had long before you even considered the turbo upgrade man. The difference really is night and day. Its not just the power it makes, thats not even the big deal imo. Its how it transforms the car and makes the curve flatter up top. The flattness is what makes a car fast. A fast rising peak then drop is gonna feel like crap, but if you sacrifice getting that high number and getting it as flat and smooth as possible then youll have the fast car, not a bragging number.

like i said before, take it to the track before you analyze things anymore and just upset yourself. ignore your e.t. because if you didnt know to buy cams first, chances are you're not going to be launching or shifting properly either no offense. check out your trap speeds according to Andy you're probably looking at a 112mph which isnt bad at all. the cams and fmic will probably give you another 3-4 depending on how aggresive the tune is and what cams you decide on.


Cheers!