Sad but true. Luckily it was only a 1/4 mile, so I didn't get too small. I almost lost sight of you that one night on 44.

Yeah, I'm going to ban my best friend. Real likely.
Besides, I need the cheap labor.

If you're too lazy to find the slip Matt posted, it was high 17 first time, low 18 second run. For some reason, my car was a dog when it came time for the post-Shootout Test-n-Tune runs. I magically lost half a second. *sigh* Doesn't matter, since Matt still beat me by 2 seconds.

 

I checked the slip but I didn't realize it was you...DJ

Sorry...I know how you feel then getting stomped on by 2secs or more. I raced a dodge magnum one night that ran low 14's to my 16.whatever.

WADAD

 

It's alright, doug is finally heading in the right direction with his mods...lets not get this off topic tho.

 

so, for those who have tubo'd lancers, how is the lag? about what rpm's does the turbo kick in at when running around 7psi?
i was just curious because i was thinking of building a custom setup, and saving myself several thousand $

 

Ok first of all this has been talked about... but boost starts builing around 2200rpm and hits full by 3000rpm.
In the end you prob wont end up saving thousands wit all the time and trouble your gonna be having with the custom route, but whatever suits you.... best bet would to be a used RRM kit off this website

 

Depends on turbo choice.

And if done right, you WILL save a lot.

 

with the retarded RRM manifold action you reach 7 psi by like 3500 rpm, and 9 psi at around 4000. we should be spooling much quicker with our small turbos, but with this header uppipe turbo downpipe stuff it can't be helping much of anything. We could really benefit from a TUBULAR MANIFOLD. Either way, it still spools pretty quick, i'm just saying, it could be quicker if we had any type of regular "turbo" manifold.

as for buildling custom setups, yes, you would undoubtedly save lots of money if you do your homework, a couple thousand? i dunno about that, but I guess if you have the right connections and you do a lot of searching you could?

 

oh i should add that i got those spooling numbers with a leaky wastegate, so i cooooouullldd be losing a lot of spool with that leak (most likely), waiting for my copper gasket to come. question for some other turbo guys, namely airquez since you'll prolly check this sometime soon (hopefully), i was talking to my honda buddy and he said that none of the honda guys use gaskets between their headers or downpipes and wastegate flanges, rather they use a "hondabond" sealant and then just mate the two metal flanges together, i wasn't sure if that was a good idea, but maybe you have some feedback for me. i already ordered a copper for it so im going to use that, but im interested anyways.

oh, and airquez, i'll be in bradenton, florida for about a week starting i believe july 16th, let me know if your available or something maybe we can chat and i can check out your setup.

 

Retarded huh? Remember it was made to pass CARB back in the day. It still blows away most any kit with a manifold. Remember how you passed smog in OHIO with the kit installed?

ROAD/RACE

 

have you ever done any work on your car yourself? you seem to be one that pays to have everything done. if you knew, that kit that cost you $4200, i could build myself for under 1500, i guarentee that. many of my friends have built custom setups for under 1000. but you are right, it would be a long and tedeous project.

 

Im total I paid about $2800 for my RRM Intercooled with all the components. I Also got RRM headers, RRM Carbon fiber gauge pod, 2 Defi gauges, RRM Test pipe, Hallsman Boost Controller and a bunch of other stuff with that.

I dont know where you got that I pay for everything being done to my car, but the turbo kit was installed by me and 2 buddies in about 6 hours...

 

gotta love getting a good used kit...

As far as cappy up/down pipe stuff i stand behind what Rock said...

As far as building the same kit for 1500 i don't think so... personally i've seen many try but in the end they either have to use a lesser intercooler, lesser turbo, and usually go internal wastegate rather than external. These cost cutting measures make the price drop but so does the power acheived. Thus your not the same kit in either parts nor power. But if you know what your doing and want to save some cash go for it as it is possible. Just don't be one of the guys calling RRM later trying to buy components for upgrading your system as you're not satisfied with it like most do.

Lastely i think this thread has outlived its original purpose... seems to keep spiralling off topic. A mod should just close it down.

 

I agree w/ BOE

 

Up to Matt. I'm here.

If he'd like to start a fresh one, cool with me.

 

I know I can't build a kit for $1500. NEW BIG T-28 alone costs us $890. TIAL WASTEGATE-$260, SPEARCO INTERCOOOLER CORE $380.....

ROAD/RACE