i agree as well, however, a time has come where i feel i need more power, and more response. I'm not going to tear my motor appart and spend 1500+ on internals, so I want the best bolt on mods i can get. rock, you know me, and i don't dog the RRM parts, all i'm saying is that when im looking to juice everything i can out of this kit, there are measures that are willing to be taken. Plus, the ralliart kit got a turbo manifold...

 

ralliarts don't have a cat in their header so it was feasable to do it that way. Just remember doing the header will require you to modify oil return, downpipe, removal of both stock fans, as well as piping changes in order to either keep the external or change to internal wastegates. With those piping changes you'll have to change the piping for the intercooler as well.

Another words there is more to it than just a simple change in manifolds...

Seriously though this has gone way off topic from the reason you started this post. You should just have this one closed and open a new one to discuss this point.

 

Well since this has spiralled off-topic, I will go ahead and add to it .

I would recommend using silicone sealant only as a last resort. If you can get gaskets, then get them. My custom setup took forever to install, just because I didnt have a lot of the gaskets and stupid stuff... I did use silicone sealant between the DP and the turbo but I used gaskets everywhere else.

As for around that time, sure thing man, just let me know. I live about 1 hr north of Bradenton in St. petersburg... i can show you around town to some fast DSMs, 240s and a slow Mirage ...

 

First step is no leaks. Second step is call me. There are guys making abit more power than you on same set up (stage 2). Lets call A SUPER SEXY STAGE 2 but internals are recommended. Just be careful of your greed! That is how we sell a lot of pistons!

ROAD/RACE

 

ok so you cant make a kit for under 1500. i wouldnt run a t28 intercooled, i would probably use the t25, and build a non intercooled setup. i had been debating buying the rrm kit, but i cant hang on to money to save my life . it really sucks buying parts that you get minimal gains from, but hopefully i can save up and be able to buy a power producing mod such as the turbo kit .

 

DO layaway plan with us. We know that guys have trouble holding on to $500 at a time. THink about it anyway....

ROAD/RACE

 

it's amazing how many guys have to do this... that's the way i started out as well.

Rock knows me bigtime... i can't hold on to cash to save my life. Good thing i seem to come up with enough of it or i'd be out on the street for sure.

 

correct me if im wrong but the spearco core that you use is the 2-209? RRE sells it for 290 not 380.

2-209 18.5" 7.12" 3.0" Side to Side $290

scroll down to the spearco intercooler cores http://www.roadraceengineering.com/intercoolers.htm

 

Yea, I meant $280.

ROAD/RACE

 

Quick question: I Know the RRM stage 2 upgrade includes the piggyback. What is it used for and what other stuff is included. One thing I hate about stage 1 turbo is the availability of boost. At first gear, it doesn't seem to be getting any boost. Also, when you are revving around 4k rpms and up, does the turbo maintain it's boost or is it normal to level down to 2psi? Or is that considered a boost leak?

 

what do you mean by revving? if your slam on it and it goes above 4k you should be in full boost, whether that is 5 psi or 9 psi, if your going down to 2 psi i wouldn't call that "leveling" i would call that a problem.

piggyback is used to tune out the RC injectors that come with the kit. they are bigger than stock to allow more fuel for more boost but they are also too big so they need to be leaned out to run with boost.

in first gear you should be getting boost, if i step on it in first gear as soon as i build boost the tires are ripped off the ground. if your gauge isn't reading boost that's becuase its either inaccurate or you arn't making that much boost. you have to think of it as momentum. your exhaust gasses are just starting to spin the turbo in first gear, and first gear is short, so your not goign to make a full 9 psi (or whatever boost your running) in first gear. same in 2nd, your going to make a psi or 2 less than your peak becuase your not spitting so much gas yet. in 3r gear your going to make most of you rboost and in 4th is where you are going to hit full boost for sure, and that is where it will spike if it is going to. that is why it is good to use 4th gear to determine what your boost is doing (spiking, staying constant, falling).

 

i always hit the mark in every gear... only reason i ever seen a time i didn't is when one of my gaskets was leaking. Especially the one between the header and up pipe. Also check the wastegate gasket. That can kill your boost as well. Never should the boost be only 2 psi.

 

you make 9 psi in 2nd gear?? i make like 8 or so in second, about 8-9 in third, and 9 in 4th.

Boe - when i was running 5 and 7 psi, i had my Greddy bov set to the RRM specs that were on the install instructions. since then, i have moved to 9 obviously, and i just recently made the allen bolt at the top 4 turns harder, should i make it harder yet or what, i figured that i should make it tighter if im running 9 psi than it would be if i was running 5.

 

I am running stage 1 and I'm using a Zeitronix boost gauge. I'm pretty sure I installed the gauge correctly because it stays at -22 constant when I'm at idle or -19 when I'm on A/C. At first gear, I am -3 at 3k rpms and that's pretty much where it goes. NO boost at all at first gear. At 2nd gear, I'm going to 3psi at 3k rpms and around 4.5psi at 4krpms. Now when I floor it to 5k rpms on 3rd gear, it fluctuates and goes down to 2.5psi. On 3rd gear I am on full boost around 5psi on 3k rpms. When I rev it to 4k rpms, it starts to go down at 3.5psi. 4th gear maintains the boost at around 4psi at 3k rpms and going to 5psi when I floor it. 5th gear is where the boost is the most constant. It gives me 5psi whenever i need it.

So basically, since this is a T28 turbo I'm assuming I'm only taking advantage of the upper gears. The turbo seems to be useless at the lower gears, unless I'm doing something wrong? I'm going to make a boost leak tester this weekend.

 

I recently upgraded my exaust system to Greddy and placed copper gaskets all around. Including the "header/turbo up-pipe" and "turbo down-pipe/exhaust downpipe". Is it getting to the point I have to weld everything together?