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Green_Bandit's 16g build thread

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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 11:58 AM
  #31  
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by burner67
alright so i guess i will be doing something like this -> https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/la...o-evoscan.html

thanks for the help.
With that gloshift gauge, yeah...probably, although it would make me nervous and the formula is unknown to me to convert from v to Afr....every sensor seems to be diff....also, this assumes the gauge/wideband you have is the logging one. If you don't have it, buy aem.
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Old Jun 8, 2011 | 12:37 PM
  #32  
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yeah i guess it doesnt have the logging function. oh well guess ill just get the aem thanks.
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 10:48 AM
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Ok, a little update. After Hornstar gave me better direction on what to log Ive continued to pull some timing around to 70-90 load and 2500-4000 RPM range. So, I am definataly starting to see less knock. Still getting some but here is my predicament.

Normal acceleration and driving is fine but the thing is when I get to hills. Im worried about putting it under load when I go up them. Ive done some logs going up a few but under the same load and RPM its asking me to pull even more timing. But if I do that Im really going to have to to pull timing across the map to smooth it out. I have it to a point where going up around 80 load I can run 1 or 2 pounds going up but at this point I dont want to push it. Any suggestions?

Also Im moving to FL in a few days so between packing and work I have not been able to do a lot with the Lancer lately but I did find out one of my fans is busted. I dont know what happed. It just stopped working. Its not the controller because I tested that, its just the fan itself. I bought a new one from Steven so Ill have that soon and just in time for the hotter climate to make sure temps DO stay down. It was a 7" fan but this one is a 10" so it should do work.

Finally I also found out my control arms busted my oil pressure sender. I have the new sender but to adjust it properly I have to drain the oil and all that fun stuff. The thing is I just changed my oil...I really want this gauge in before I make this 6 hour drive to move.

Any suggestion on the timing issue?
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 12:19 PM
  #34  
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From: sin city,ma
I have the same issue on hills and when getting onto the freeway or changing over to another freeway if the exit has an incline I'll start knocking.
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Old Jun 14, 2011 | 07:18 PM
  #35  
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There's a couple things you can do for the timing. If you are using RoadSpike's Auto Lancer ROM and the timing he included....then you can probably pull timing pretty safely, because I find that map a little too aggressive for me. It may not be...but, you just have to find out I guess. Here is what I do...

For WOT, obviously you want to keep from knocking, and then second, you want to use virtual dyno or something, to calc torq/hp and get the highest numbers you can...increasing timing past the best numbers you can make is called goign past MBT I believe, and it's just the same as having too little timing, less than max power....so increase timing until knock, or MBT depending on gas, don't go until knock on e85...if you can run it.

For cruising, timing is a little different. You want the most efficient timing, which you can find by logging "fuel consumption", and just set your cruise to 70mph or whatever, and hit a nice flat road....log it, go back, change timing up or down like 3 degrees, do it again, and compare the averages. You can also use EGT to find the most efficient spot. I combine them. If you run too little timing at cruise, your EGTs are too freakin hot and melt shti. If they are too advanced, you won't necessarily knock at such a low load, but it can wear the engine out and get bad mpg's. Also, if timing is too advanced, you will actually see LOWER egt's, which doesn't make sense in my head, but the heat is absorbed into the pistons and engine, and the detonation as well (and it burns off earlier). So, you want that happy medium, most efficient explosion/combustion.
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 03:01 AM
  #36  
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lookin good. Dunno if you posted already but are you upgrading the internals any? And what is this talk about a rom made by tephra for 4g94 guys?! ATM i am using my own custom tune and i do have it running pretty well but just curious whats the benefits you find with the tephra one?
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 08:12 AM
  #37  
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From: Austin, Tx
Originally Posted by sykou
lookin good. Dunno if you posted already but are you upgrading the internals any? And what is this talk about a rom made by tephra for 4g94 guys?! ATM i am using my own custom tune and i do have it running pretty well but just curious whats the benefits you find with the tephra one?
He hasn't mentioned internals yet....I'm seriously considering it, once I get a decent speed density tune.

As far as a tephra rom for lancers, Manuals can use Evo ROM's, and Autos can use a "Auto Tephra" ROM that RoadSpike adapted for the auto guys to use. Bigger maps, removes injector limits, load limits, has speed density if needed, all the tephra options, etc etc
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 01:31 PM
  #38  
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From: sin city,ma
Originally Posted by HornstarBU
There's a couple things you can do for the timing. If you are using RoadSpike's Auto Lancer ROM and the timing he included....then you can probably pull timing pretty safely, because I find that map a little too aggressive for me. It may not be...but, you just have to find out I guess. Here is what I do...

For WOT, obviously you want to keep from knocking, and then second, you want to use virtual dyno or something, to calc torq/hp and get the highest numbers you can...increasing timing past the best numbers you can make is called goign past MBT I believe, and it's just the same as having too little timing, less than max power....so increase timing until knock, or MBT depending on gas, don't go until knock on e85...if you can run it.

For cruising, timing is a little different. You want the most efficient timing, which you can find by logging "fuel consumption", and just set your cruise to 70mph or whatever, and hit a nice flat road....log it, go back, change timing up or down like 3 degrees, do it again, and compare the averages. You can also use EGT to find the most efficient spot. I combine them. If you run too little timing at cruise, your EGTs are too freakin hot and melt shti. If they are too advanced, you won't necessarily knock at such a low load, but it can wear the engine out and get bad mpg's. Also, if timing is too advanced, you will actually see LOWER egt's, which doesn't make sense in my head, but the heat is absorbed into the pistons and engine, and the detonation as well (and it burns off earlier). So, you want that happy medium, most efficient explosion/combustion.
Right now I can cruise at 40-50 load no problem but as soon as I hit step on it a little bit and get into the the 60 load knock comes up.

On a hill getting knock is even easier because it gets to the 60-70 load alot quicker. Knock comes up in the 10+ area on hills while just cruising on the highway I hit the 60 load and the knock counts are 7-8+, not a huge difference I know but still a difference.
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 10:45 PM
  #39  
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Well I got off of my *** and fixed that oil pressure issue. I forget how much I enjoy working on my car until I actually get out there. So I have little less worry about driving it to Florida.



Originally Posted by sykou
lookin good. Dunno if you posted already but are you upgrading the internals any? And what is this talk about a rom made by tephra for 4g94 guys?! ATM i am using my own custom tune and i do have it running pretty well but just curious whats the benefits you find with the tephra one?
Internals?! who needs those with people like Stephen pushing 17?! jp Im getting to a good point with the lancer. Im pretty positive Im going to bump it to 10 and stop. But yeah, Tephra/RS gives us knock light, better scaling, crazy stuff compared to just what the stock ROM has.

This move is coming with a new job and after a while or so hopefully a new car. new car being an Evo.

But for now Im going to keep going. Still many things I want to do.

Like get this tune straight!

Last edited by Green_Bandit; Jun 15, 2011 at 10:48 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 11:01 PM
  #40  
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my gosh people cmon I thought I was setting high hopes, is this because I plan on getting an evo... thats just messed up foo
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 11:03 PM
  #41  
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Here is an example of my dilemma.



I dont think Im too happy with the timing in the 70 loads. Do they decrease too much as the load increases?

In the log I attached it was when I was going up an incline and at 3000 RPM about 74 load it said I had 10 counts at that one time. But if I were to try and correct that, timing across the board will really have to be edited.

Suggestions?
Attached Files
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 11:22 PM
  #42  
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Man your map is jacked, first are you logging knock voltage, then if you get anything that is 1.000 or over its consider it as real knock
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Old Jun 15, 2011 | 11:43 PM
  #43  
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Really? Over 1.0?
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 06:00 AM
  #44  
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From: sin city,ma
exactly see what I mean, if we pull timing in one area should we pull on some of the loads before so that it at least transitions into that timing instead of a straight drop in timing??

I haven't seen knock voltage over 1, I don't think and I always log knock voltage.
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Old Jun 16, 2011 | 06:10 AM
  #45  
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Don't go entirely on Knock Volts. Go off Knock Sum, and then use volts to help rule out real knock, once pulling timing doesn't fix it (or affect it some).

I don't think the map is necessarily "jacked up" or anything, but I really like resolution, particularly in the 100-150 area, since that's where i spend most of my time. Don't hesitate to drop timing on RS's timing map though, he did it "aggressive" like steven does, lol.

Also, are your knock sensor multipliers 18 throughout, with 3 low and 5 high gain? Using the evo knock thresholds, and then changing the knock load thresholds from starting at 160, down to a more reasonable 60 or something, can make it look "knocky". The Evo uses 13 as it's low multiplier, which is more sensitive in that range.
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