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Mk V Supra - My Evo's Replacement?

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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 01:13 PM
  #1516  
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Why does it seem so many aftermarket parts aren't fit tested before being sold?
seems that would be the first thing to do before releasing to the public.
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 01:22 PM
  #1517  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
It's more about the length of the bracket on the strut I think. You can only clock them one way since there is a tab that goes into the hub mount.

The front sway bar is a piece of cake to install. It literally took me longer to take the undertray off than install the sway bar.

Are you also installing SPL lower control arms? If so, most adjustable aftermarket sway bars hit the LCA. I run the Cusco sway bar which only has one hole and it just BARELY touches the LCA at full lock. With the steering centered, there is probably 2-3mm clearance.
I didnt see any tab on mine to clock them. The height adjustment collar has a slit down the middle of it but thats all I remember seeing. I will be sure to check to see if there is a difference between the mounting location height from stock.

Ya last time I had the car on jack stands I was going to do the sway bar and then realized how much fun the undertray looked like to take off and said nope, I will do this on a lift. I am dreading doing the rear bar....

Not doing the SPL lower arms for now. I want to see how much camber the top hats get me. They claim 3° which will be fine for me.
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 04:35 PM
  #1518  
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Originally Posted by Lumpy Sticks
I didnt see any tab on mine to clock them. The height adjustment collar has a slit down the middle of it but thats all I remember seeing. I will be sure to check to see if there is a difference between the mounting location height from stock.

Ya last time I had the car on jack stands I was going to do the sway bar and then realized how much fun the undertray looked like to take off and said nope, I will do this on a lift. I am dreading doing the rear bar....

Not doing the SPL lower arms for now. I want to see how much camber the top hats get me. They claim 3° which will be fine for me.
Yea, the gold collar will probably be what clocks everything correctly in the hub mount. Also, I found it WAYYYY easier to get the OEM strut out of the hub mount by taking the whole assembly out of the car. Spreading that thing is a pain in the *** while mounted. (that's what she said)

Since you have the adjuster on the bottom of your front coilovers, you won't have the issue that I had with the camber plates being limited by the top adjuster hitting the shock tower. So all good there.

Rear bar will be fun. I'm not even going to go there. The car is tail happy as it is. Having had and driven AWD/FWD cars all my life I was apprehensive about upgrading the front bar on the Supra but it made a REMARKABLE difference in stability and completely got rid of the front end float I experienced.

I'm assuming you are using the out of the box ohlins spring rates? I think it's 500/900 if I remember. That is pretty close to the 550/500 rates I am running with the rear true coilover conversion. Since you autox, you might want more rear spring, or that rear sway bar.

Last edited by razorlab; Jun 2, 2022 at 04:41 PM.
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 05:47 PM
  #1519  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
Yea, the gold collar will probably be what clocks everything correctly in the hub mount. Also, I found it WAYYYY easier to get the OEM strut out of the hub mount by taking the whole assembly out of the car. Spreading that thing is a pain in the *** while mounted. (that's what she said)

if the gold collar is supposed to be what clocks it, then I can clock it however since it's threaded on the inside. When you say pull it off as an assembly, you mean pull the spindle from the arm?

Since you have the adjuster on the bottom of your front coilovers, you won't have the issue that I had with the camber plates being limited by the top adjuster hitting the shock tower. So all good there.

Thats exactly what i am hoping!

Rear bar will be fun. I'm not even going to go there. The car is tail happy as it is. Having had and driven AWD/FWD cars all my life I was apprehensive about upgrading the front bar on the Supra but it made a REMARKABLE difference in stability and completely got rid of the front end float I experienced.

I get that same front end float in auto-x. One of the other Supra guys i race with only did the front bar and is happy with how much it helped.

I'm assuming you are using the out of the box ohlins spring rates? I think it's 500/900 if I remember. That is pretty close to the 550/500 rates I am running with the rear true coilover conversion. Since you autox, you might want more rear spring, or that rear sway bar.

Yep going to start with the stock spring rates. I honestly don't know if I am going to like the rear sway bar. How the car is, it's very tail happy. Now that I am going from a 275 to 315 front tire, it's only going to be more tail happy. So I'll be trying it with the new front sway bar for my next race and see how it behaves.
See bold print above
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 06:51 PM
  #1520  
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Here is what I am dealing with.


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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 08:01 PM
  #1521  
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Originally Posted by razorlab

Since you have the adjuster on the bottom of your front coilovers, you won't have the issue that I had with the camber plates being limited by the top adjuster hitting the shock tower. So all good there..
Can you open up the tower like the mustang guys do? It was a slight pain in the ***, but not TOO bad.
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 08:23 PM
  #1522  
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Originally Posted by kaj
Can you open up the tower like the mustang guys do? It was a slight pain in the ***, but not TOO bad.
It would be real easy to do but I'm not sure how much of the "webbing" would be safe to remove.
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Old Jun 2, 2022 | 09:39 PM
  #1523  
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You can buy the knuckle spreader tool, or make one by grinding/shaping a 3/8 drive 10mm hex driver. With the right tool they spread easy, no need to remove from the car.

Amazon Amazon
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Old Jun 3, 2022 | 06:05 AM
  #1524  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
You can buy the knuckle spreader tool, or make one by grinding/shaping a 3/8 drive 10mm hex driver. With the right tool they spread easy, no need to remove from the car.

https://www.amazon.com/ATLIN-Strut-S...70523255&psc=1
Yea I tried about four things, including that exact tool. Got them spread but getting the strut actually out was another story. At least with mine, and since I was upgrading the arms, it was easier to remove the whole assembly.
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Old Jun 3, 2022 | 06:06 AM
  #1525  
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Originally Posted by kaj
Can you open up the tower like the mustang guys do? It was a slight pain in the ***, but not TOO bad.
Probably and probably easy to cut since the towers are aluminum. I didn’t need to as I also have the adjustable lower control arms.
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Old Jun 3, 2022 | 08:51 AM
  #1526  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
Yea I tried about four things, including that exact tool. Got them spread but getting the strut actually out was another story. At least with mine, and since I was upgrading the arms, it was easier to remove the whole assembly.
Interesting, We've done a few lowering spring installs and haven't had an issue.
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Old Jun 3, 2022 | 08:55 AM
  #1527  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Interesting, We've done a few lowering spring installs and haven't had an issue.
Yea tell me about it. I had to PB blast the strut and hit it with a dead blow hammer multiple times lol.
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Old Jun 3, 2022 | 09:16 AM
  #1528  
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It's definitely a "why do you do this to me" design.
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Old Jun 3, 2022 | 09:45 AM
  #1529  
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This is my clearance at the upper shock towers for the curious


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Old Jun 3, 2022 | 12:51 PM
  #1530  
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Originally Posted by razorlab
This is my clearance at the upper shock towers for the curious
Here's how I did my car.... Aluminum may complicate things...?





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