In your case, it's all car.

Pat, I won't be in STU this year and only select events in ESP. I'll have to visit your camper again at Milwaukee for some more of those Beer soaked brat's.

Dave

 

Especially with all that blingy crap Chris likes....shiny metal objects make his eyes glaze over.

We'll miss you in STU, but will gladly serve up a beer brat for you if you make the Tour!

 

Just think if we all had those sweet remote res. Motons.

 

So true! Maybe if we put a priority, driver, tires then setup (shocks, swaybar, springs, bushings, etc )? Shocks being 1 part of the entire setup? I mean think about it ... Brandon Burkhart won STU 2 years in a row with .... Dun Dun Dah! Teins ...

 

Hey that's my spinach.

Sadly though, it is my last evening with them. Gone tomorrow.

Dave

 

I don't think having uber remote res will change it. If the basic construction of a damper is good then the knobs don't matter as much. How many times have you changed spring rates and had your Bilsteins revalved Rich? You've been driving your a** off and that's what counts the MOST.

 

guys we had a dry event today but I really had to back off or I pushed (horrendously). I still won the class but it was close.

I have springs alignment and re01r's. I ended up putting alot of air (40 psi) up front and leaving the rears that were getting no heat at their initial 39 psi. I prolly could have bounced them up but didnt take air to grid.

I am thinking a rear sway bar might help me get the rear end around abit to take that pressure off the front.....

 

Wouldn't that make the front grip even less? Were you getting a lot of wear on the sidewalls which made you decide to go higher in pressure?

My last event I started at 40 in the front, and after a few runs I dropped them to 35 and dropped over a second off my time. However, I did see a bit of wear to the outside just past the arrows so next time I'll try like 36 and see how it goes.

 

i am still a beginner, so i may be wrong, but i'm not sure if a rear bar will help "take the pressure off the front." in fact, it could do quite the opposite. the front tires tend to heat up more than the rears because they are the front tires, and the rising pressure is a result, and I think that is pretty typical.
it also sounds like your pressures may have been a little bit backward. most of the time people agree that a few psi lower pressure in front helps traction despite rising pressures due to the temperature. i usually end up continuing to bleed rising pressure out of the fronts even after the rears plateau as you described.
from personal experience and what is the general consensus, a rear sway bar has the potential to make the car rotate more, often because it can contribute to less traction in the rear, not the other way around. it may even make the front tires work harder, and could thus result in even higher front tire temps.
i usually start with 1-2 psi lower pressure on the front, and have to bleed off a bit more after they are warmed up, whereas the rears plateau a bit further. this could really be due to the course, my setup, and my driving though.

 

sorry I was unclear: I was putting air in by putting heat into the front which translated to air, I didnt release it. More air when ur rolling over can help. Just no to the degree I needed. My rears never heated (or inflated)

I would have loved to have more in the rear but couldnt generate heat. I was on the arrows so I needed to change both (my driving style and air pressure)

 

Let's see, I'm on my 5th round of spring rates, not including tender/ helper springs. Bilstien PSS9's have only been revalved once. I think I'm almost there.

I do frequently use the damping adjustment run to run.

Rick

 

OK, I'm sure this has been asked before.. but here goes.

Ok first, I'm not sure what the stock wheel offset is for an 05 Evo. I think it's like +38 right? Second -- What's the furthest offset of wheel that I can use in STU? Isn't it like 6MM beyond stock? So that would be +32?

Finally, and I know this is a point of debate, which wheel is better for the max width of 245? an 8" or an 8.5"?

Thanks in advance.

EDIT: I'm starting to think that an 8.5 wheel won't fit at that offset since the 8" RPF1 is +35 and the 8.5" RPF1 is a +30 offset (on tirerack)

 

Stock offset is +38mm
You can run any offset you want in STU, as long as your tires don't rub on the fenders. Only stock class is limited to the 6mm rule. Just watch your scrub radius.
8.5" wide rim will be a better choice for 245 wide tires.
I believe the RPF1s with +30mm is know to fit on EVOs without any rubbing issue.

Hope that helped

 

Oh yeah - I got my class rules mixed up. Ok then I know what I'm going to be running. Thanks.

 

If anyone still needs a 100 cell high-flow cat for classes that require you run a cat, I have one listed in the classifieds with 3" tubing already welded on.