Let's see YOUR track Evo
My DD/track car
Mods:
Power:
UR TBE catless
Works drop in filter
HB Speed tune 335 AWHP
Suspension:
KW V3 street coilovers
White Line rear swaybar
Wheels and tires:
Volk TE-37 SL's 18x9.5 +22
Yokohama Advan 265/35/18's
Fenders rolled
Brakes:
Stop tech street pads ( I could not fade them! )
Motul fluid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baumy27gtHA
Here's a clip from the lotus, there is more pressure on the driver in the lead if you watch both videos you'll see.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkHmjHwsbPs



Power:
UR TBE catless
Works drop in filter
HB Speed tune 335 AWHP
Suspension:
KW V3 street coilovers
White Line rear swaybar
Wheels and tires:
Volk TE-37 SL's 18x9.5 +22
Yokohama Advan 265/35/18's
Fenders rolled
Brakes:
Stop tech street pads ( I could not fade them! )
Motul fluid
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=baumy27gtHA
Here's a clip from the lotus, there is more pressure on the driver in the lead if you watch both videos you'll see.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vkHmjHwsbPs



Last edited by ILE; Dec 11, 2010 at 01:57 AM.
not so sure how some of you keep your brembo's so nice, re paint them?
or is it that if you get all the cooling stuff done before they go brown they stay nice? (2pc rotor, ducting)
or is it that if you get all the cooling stuff done before they go brown they stay nice? (2pc rotor, ducting)
Done tons of events and they are still red. No repainting. I did get them replaced under warranty. Possibly the new ones hold up a little better/longer? Hard to say.
2003 Evo 8

Power:
- HKS 272's, MIL.SPEC 65mm TB w/ shaft bushings
- JMFab Twin Scroll manifold, Swain Tech White Lightning coated
- CBRD BBK Full turbo,
- Perrin 3" DP, SSAC O2 Housing, Jet Hot 2000 coated
- AMS standard IC, LICP w/ Samco hose kit
- Perrin intake
- Evo 9 stock BOV
- Hallman Pro MBC
- PTE 1000 injectors, Walbro 255 pump
- Saiku Michi catch can (PVC & Crankcase)
- 24-25 psi
- 363 whp, 350 ft-lb
Drivetrain:
- ACT HDSS clutch with Streetlite flywheel, SS clutch lines
- TRE Stage 2 5-speed w/ Evo 9 1st gear
- TRE TC w/ Ralliart LSD
- TRE MaxLock Rear Diff
- AMS Moustache Bar delete
Chassis:
- WORKS Ohlin DFV. 9K front / 11K rear Swift Springs
- WORKS 24mm rear bar, set to min. w/ Perrin end-links & Stout Mounts
- WORKS camber plates & pillow ball mounts
- WORKS urethane bushings everywhere
- Whiteline Steering Precision Kit
- Whiteline Roll Center Kit
- Perrin PSRS / ALK Positive Camber
- Cusco Ti front strut bar & Beatrush rear strut bar
Brakes:
- Racing Brake 2 piece slotted front rotors
- Performance Friction PFC97 front pads
- Racing Brake slotted rear rotors
- Racing Brake ETS500 rear pads
- Technafit SS lines
- ATE Superblue fluid
- AMS Brake Duct kit
Wheels/Tires
- Stock Enkeis w/ 245/40R17 Direzza Z1 Star Specs
Aero:
- APR splitter
- Mits MR Vortex Generator
- Rexpeed Gurney Flap on stock wing
Inside:
- No rear seats
- Beatrush Rear Bulkhead panel
- Stock seats/belts lowered w/ Binary brackets
- Binary lowered stock Recaro passenger
- Mitsubishi Pedal covers

I got shamed into tracking my Evo in 2005 by my autocrossing buddies who do both. My big fear back then? I didn't want to burn through brake pads.
Now I can change out pads in my sleep, but at $275/set for the PFC97s, it's only painful on the wallet.
The biggest challenge I find is trying to maintain a balance between a good handling track car and a good handling autocross car that maintains rule compliance in SCCA's Street Mod class. A twitchy rear is great on a small, tight autocross course can be frightening on track.
Things I Like:
- The power of this car and it's balance is great. While it seems it could use more power, it's about as much as you need. The handling, while not totally confidence inspiring, is also pretty predictable and has never caused any problems at the track.
- The car has been bullet-proof, even with all the mods and the motorsports flogging. While it may pick up a nagging issue here or there, I've never been stranded by the car, driving it hundreds of miles to track events in the US and Canada, while my fellow car club buddies all trailer their track queens.
Things I Don't Like:
- Troubleshooting issues on the car requires tons of effort. Living in upstate NY, expert help is typically 3hrs away or more. Fortunately I've found some local resources that can handle most issues, so no more crazy trips to NYC, CT, or PA unless I've got something big. I've got an idle stumble / stall that occurred shortly after my CBRD turbo install, and I still haven't been able to track it down (**UPDATE - found a melted Hondata phenolic intake manifold gasket = piece of sh*t). - The steering on the car has become super light with the Whiteline Roll Center kit, making it very important to be very gentle with steering wheel inputs on the track.
Future:
I have a set of Racetech 4009W seats, Schroth 6pt harnesses, and other bits on order in preparation for a roll cage install this winter - either 4 or 6 pt. My sunroof is getting deleted, but don't know if I'll have it plugged or swap on an MR skin. My springs need to be stiffened, but I'm not sure how much. Under hard braking, the nose tends to dive pretty hard - that causes some rear end wandering when braking hard at the track. I'm thinking of going to a 10k/12k setup won't be enough, but WORKS is saying going up to a 12k/14k setup might be too stiff for the street (remember the long drives to tracks in Canada?).

Power:
- HKS 272's, MIL.SPEC 65mm TB w/ shaft bushings
- JMFab Twin Scroll manifold, Swain Tech White Lightning coated
- CBRD BBK Full turbo,
- Perrin 3" DP, SSAC O2 Housing, Jet Hot 2000 coated
- AMS standard IC, LICP w/ Samco hose kit
- Perrin intake
- Evo 9 stock BOV
- Hallman Pro MBC
- PTE 1000 injectors, Walbro 255 pump
- Saiku Michi catch can (PVC & Crankcase)
- 24-25 psi
- 363 whp, 350 ft-lb
Drivetrain:
- ACT HDSS clutch with Streetlite flywheel, SS clutch lines
- TRE Stage 2 5-speed w/ Evo 9 1st gear
- TRE TC w/ Ralliart LSD
- TRE MaxLock Rear Diff
- AMS Moustache Bar delete
Chassis:
- WORKS Ohlin DFV. 9K front / 11K rear Swift Springs
- WORKS 24mm rear bar, set to min. w/ Perrin end-links & Stout Mounts
- WORKS camber plates & pillow ball mounts
- WORKS urethane bushings everywhere
- Whiteline Steering Precision Kit
- Whiteline Roll Center Kit
- Perrin PSRS / ALK Positive Camber
- Cusco Ti front strut bar & Beatrush rear strut bar
Brakes:
- Racing Brake 2 piece slotted front rotors
- Performance Friction PFC97 front pads
- Racing Brake slotted rear rotors
- Racing Brake ETS500 rear pads
- Technafit SS lines
- ATE Superblue fluid
- AMS Brake Duct kit
Wheels/Tires
- Stock Enkeis w/ 245/40R17 Direzza Z1 Star Specs
Aero:
- APR splitter
- Mits MR Vortex Generator
- Rexpeed Gurney Flap on stock wing
Inside:
- No rear seats
- Beatrush Rear Bulkhead panel
- Stock seats/belts lowered w/ Binary brackets
- Binary lowered stock Recaro passenger
- Mitsubishi Pedal covers

I got shamed into tracking my Evo in 2005 by my autocrossing buddies who do both. My big fear back then? I didn't want to burn through brake pads.
Now I can change out pads in my sleep, but at $275/set for the PFC97s, it's only painful on the wallet.The biggest challenge I find is trying to maintain a balance between a good handling track car and a good handling autocross car that maintains rule compliance in SCCA's Street Mod class. A twitchy rear is great on a small, tight autocross course can be frightening on track.
Things I Like:
- The power of this car and it's balance is great. While it seems it could use more power, it's about as much as you need. The handling, while not totally confidence inspiring, is also pretty predictable and has never caused any problems at the track.
- The car has been bullet-proof, even with all the mods and the motorsports flogging. While it may pick up a nagging issue here or there, I've never been stranded by the car, driving it hundreds of miles to track events in the US and Canada, while my fellow car club buddies all trailer their track queens.
Things I Don't Like:
- Troubleshooting issues on the car requires tons of effort. Living in upstate NY, expert help is typically 3hrs away or more. Fortunately I've found some local resources that can handle most issues, so no more crazy trips to NYC, CT, or PA unless I've got something big. I've got an idle stumble / stall that occurred shortly after my CBRD turbo install, and I still haven't been able to track it down (**UPDATE - found a melted Hondata phenolic intake manifold gasket = piece of sh*t). - The steering on the car has become super light with the Whiteline Roll Center kit, making it very important to be very gentle with steering wheel inputs on the track.
Future:
I have a set of Racetech 4009W seats, Schroth 6pt harnesses, and other bits on order in preparation for a roll cage install this winter - either 4 or 6 pt. My sunroof is getting deleted, but don't know if I'll have it plugged or swap on an MR skin. My springs need to be stiffened, but I'm not sure how much. Under hard braking, the nose tends to dive pretty hard - that causes some rear end wandering when braking hard at the track. I'm thinking of going to a 10k/12k setup won't be enough, but WORKS is saying going up to a 12k/14k setup might be too stiff for the street (remember the long drives to tracks in Canada?).
Last edited by EJEvo; Feb 6, 2011 at 08:51 PM. Reason: correct rear spring rate
I like your car EJEvo. Kind of the same route I'm going with my car from a suspension setup. I'm pretty happy with 10k/12k on my DFV's. I will definitely be trying the lowest setting on the sway bar after the diff service gets done.
I will be attending back to back track days this coming weekend so I'll try to report back with some pics and how the two days went 
Any tips for a track noob?

Any tips for a track noob?
Last edited by L888Apex; Jan 5, 2011 at 10:34 AM.





