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Looks like a decent unit. If you look closely you'll see that some wood deck trailers have the wood pieces sitting above the angle iron and some are below. Mine is below and that one is above. Were talking a difference in height of about an inch but I mention that as I am unable to open the doors without hitting my fender. An extra inch would have gone a long way. My fenders are removable, 2 bolts and they lift off but I ended up re engineering the driverside and made it so it hinges, no tools required. My point is take note of fender height and make sure they are removable.
Another thing I noticed is that unit only has brakes on one axle. I'd much prefer brakes on both axles. The price is low on that unit so I'd look into upgrading to brakes on both axles.
I use a 16ft trailer. Because of our weight dist you have to run the car back pretty far so it leaves about 18in of deck in front of the nose which is enough to make strapping not to bad. Rear bumper overhangs the end of the trailer a little bit.
18ft would be nice if you want to build a tire rack up front. But what ever you do, get some sort of damn to block debris from the Tow vehicle. You're basically tail gating and it did a ton of damage to the front of my car over 2 years before I put an airdam.
I'd go 18'. 20' could be helpful for longer vehicles but unless you go aluminum 2x3500# axles means your'e limited to around 5000# which is probably not enough for larger vehicles anyway.
I put a toolbox on the front of mine which has proved to be an awesome addition. Also doubles as a rock guard which is nice. Oh and 100% get a winch. Its amazing how useful it is to have a trailer with winch. Cut and split wood 2 weekends ago, winched splitter right onto the trailer. Picked up a big boy compressor for my buddy last weekend, winched it onto the trailer.
I have a 20’x102” because I didn’t want to have to change trailers because a future car wouldn’t fit. Having owned 4 open car trailers, I’d highly suggest aluminum and getting bigger than you need. Just hold out for a good deal on a used one. They retain their value much better too.
yea that's what i'm looking at. what does "straps the front wheels" mean?
I don't remember what they are called, but you put tracks down on the surface of the trailer, add a bump stop for the front wheels, then use a cargo net looking thing that goes over the wheels to hold them in place against the stop.
I used a u-haul trailer that held the car down that way. Takes about 30 seconds to secure the car.
I get nervous with those. Firstly its screwed down to wood using small screws, then it's simply the curve of the aluminum holding the tie, then the strap (non net) using friction as an anchor. I've seen quite a few single tire straps come loose. I find more comfort in D-ring through bolted to frames, chassis hooks or through wheel straps. Something that can't bend or fall off ya know. If you bend the car/wheel/break off suspension it's sub-optimal. One porsche had the rear left tire deflate and the strap was dragging behind.
My go to has always been soft ties through the wheels and using straps. It works well no matter how low the car is and works even with a splitter mounted unless the splitter is exceptionally long but that's extreme cases and if you have a car like that you likely aren't towing with an open trailer haha. Kits like these:
Whats the lightest option for an enclosed trailer?
I have heard you can option an ATC 20ft with extra light weight options for sub 2000lb range if you do an alum floor and little creature comforts. Any other options you know of out there?
I get nervous with those. Firstly its screwed down to wood using small screws, then it's simply the curve of the aluminum holding the tie, then the strap (non net) using friction as an anchor. I've seen quite a few single tire straps come loose. I find more comfort in D-ring through bolted to frames, chassis hooks or through wheel straps. Something that can't bend or fall off ya know. If you bend the car/wheel/break off suspension it's sub-optimal. One porsche had the rear left tire deflate and the strap was dragging behind.
They also have net straps that work with this system. Mine are not mounted using small screws but rather through bolts all the way down the track and my straps are connected to D rings at the ends. I've used this system to strap down SUV's and heavy equipment so if properly mounted the track isn't going to bend or break. If you break off suspension, a wheel etc then you have bigger problems but you would still be able to use this system to strap just about anything down in multiple configurations.
Sounds like the guy with the Porsche wasn't using his straps properly if a tire went flat and strap ended up dragging behind it or the trailer. The fact that you mention friction holding it in place tells me you saw someone miss using the tie downs. I've seen this before myself when someone wasn't using the right hold down rings that lock into the track.
Whats the lightest option for an enclosed trailer?
I have heard you can option an ATC 20ft with extra light weight options for sub 2000lb range if you do an alum floor and little creature comforts. Any other options you know of out there?
Check out Intech which was started by former ATC employees. I've read they offer similar features for slightly less.
Finally decided on a truck, picking it up Sunday!
Should have a simple, open trailer, some time around June, a friend of mine is moving out of state and doesn't want to take the trailer with him. Lucky me.