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ah. Yep, lucked out. I wanted an '06 so I get the VVTi and 5spd for the lowest price I could find. I wanted RWD so I wouldn't have extra maintenance, etc (I won't be going anywhere that requires 4wd). Cloth interior, so no burning/freezing/split leather. I even got a decent color and some TRD wheels
4.7, yes. It's EXACTLY what I wanted, so I scooped it up. I'm towing on a small, open trailer and have tested it all out with a friend's '06 Tundra. You wouldn't even know there was a trailer behind.
Only 240k miles on it, so it will probably outlive me.
P.S. Now I get to take my dogs EVERYWHERE.
Maybe it's just me, but that doesn't look that secure. T-hooks into the chassis slots and crossing the straps on at least one end is more confidence inspiring and also immobilizes the suspension. On a smooth tow, you need almost no straps at all. You are really doing the straps for the unexpected scenario (accident, giant pothole, etc.).
Maybe it's just me, but that doesn't look that secure. T-hooks into the chassis slots and crossing the straps on at least one end is more confidence inspiring and also immobilizes the suspension. On a smooth tow, you need almost no straps at all. You are really doing the straps for the unexpected scenario (accident, giant pothole, etc.).
he seemed to indicate that they were very secure - i talked to the dude and he said he towed from CT to FL while putting the car in neutral, no e-brake, just to prove it. but if you're talking about the t-hook, i could probably just get t-hook ends to hook into the trailer stake holes
he seemed to indicate that they were very secure - i talked to the dude and he said he towed from CT to FL while putting the car in neutral, no e-brake, just to prove it. but if you're talking about the t-hook, i could probably just get t-hook ends to hook into the trailer stake holes
I meant t-hooks on the car side into the OEM tie down points.
Lot of talk about straps... Just get straps that hook back to themselves to form a loop (basically a built in axle strap) and tie them around the lower control arms. Simple and effective on an open deck trailer.
With 275's on 10" rims I used to be able to squeeze between the trailer wall and the wheel to get to the T-hook area behind the front tire. But with 11's and 295's that's starting to become a mission for my fat *** lol.
For an enclosed trailer, I would just make sure my tow hook was a substantial piece, and tie the car to that front and rear. Super easy... Otherwise I feel like Etrack is the way for an enclosed.
I drilled holes into the stake pockets to use those rings which allows the strap to run lower underneath the splitter without hitting anything. Plenty of companies make D ring stakes that lock into the stake pockets easily.
There's really nothing wrong with tying down a car any way. I just like going around the tires because the straps don't loosen up since the car doesn't move around as much on the trailer, same result if you go around control arms. Some people prefer to hook up to the chassis but the car will often wiggle around unless you really load up the suspension which just doesn't feel right to me.
Last edited by Ayoustin; Jan 26, 2021 at 08:41 PM.
You actually want the suspension on the car to be free evo8ltw as it allows the cars suspension to absorb its own weight as it goes over bumps etc in the road which takes alot of the stress off the trailer and the trailer will tow alot smoother.
If you immobilize the suspension your asking the trailer suspension to deal with its own weight + the cars weight. at least if the suspension is free then the cars suspension can absorb alot of its own weight as it bounces along.
One other thing with straps to be careful of is when you go through the wheel and out the other side or do any crossing etc pulling down on the side of the rim you actually move the alignment most of the time when you pull the strop up. Something to consider unless you enjoy re doing your alignment when you get to the track
You actually want the suspension on the car to be free evo8ltw as it allows the cars suspension to absorb its own weight as it goes over bumps etc in the road which takes alot of the stress off the trailer and the trailer will tow alot smoother.
If you immobilize the suspension your asking the trailer suspension to deal with its own weight + the cars weight. at least if the suspension is free then the cars suspension can absorb alot of its own weight as it bounces along.
When I use the t-hooks on the chassis, it doesn’t compress the suspension, so it can still move somewhat (and does in the rear view mirror). I guess there are many ways to skin a cat on this one. I would love one of those Futura trailers, but they are crazy expensive here. My Trailex has 11 foot ramps to pull out and it is getting to be a burden for me with my lumbar disc issues. I see a tilting or kneeling trailer in my future.
When I use the t-hooks on the chassis, it doesn’t compress the suspension, so it can still move somewhat (and does in the rear view mirror). I guess there are many ways to skin a cat on this one. I would love one of those Futura trailers, but they are crazy expensive here. My Trailex has 11 foot ramps to pull out and it is getting to be a burden for me with my lumbar disc issues. I see a tilting or kneeling trailer in my future.
Yea that would work fine. I just saw a bit further up you mentioned immobilizing the suspension.
Funnily enough we still have to use 6foot woodern plank extensions out the back of the futura to get my car on and its not that low. just has a long splitter out the front.
They made a fatal flaw in their design by kicking the back 6 feet or so of the trailer up on an angle. If this angle was drawn out across the whole length of the deck then we wouldnt catch the splitter on it. theres also ribs running crossways to the car and the splitter just grabs on these ribs and digs in.
Little frustrating considering the whole point of the trailer is so that you shouldnt need ramps but all in all still a decent trailer. although their galvanizing is terrible and ive had to get most galvanized parts re done after 4 years.
When I use the t-hooks on the chassis, it doesn’t compress the suspension, so it can still move somewhat (and does in the rear view mirror). I guess there are many ways to skin a cat on this one. I would love one of those Futura trailers, but they are crazy expensive here. My Trailex has 11 foot ramps to pull out and it is getting to be a burden for me with my lumbar disc issues. I see a tilting or kneeling trailer in my future.
You actually want the suspension on the car to be free evo8ltw as it allows the cars suspension to absorb its own weight as it goes over bumps etc in the road which takes alot of the stress off the trailer and the trailer will tow alot smoother.
If you immobilize the suspension your asking the trailer suspension to deal with its own weight + the cars weight. at least if the suspension is free then the cars suspension can absorb alot of its own weight as it bounces along.
One other thing with straps to be careful of is when you go through the wheel and out the other side or do any crossing etc pulling down on the side of the rim you actually move the alignment most of the time when you pull the strop up. Something to consider unless you enjoy re doing your alignment when you get to the track
that design looks just like the one from the protiedowns. i'm pretty much just waiting on bonus nmbers now to see if i can pick up a trailer.
My tow rig is getting some upgrades. Looking forward to seeing how this new setup tows since I went from 3.73 to 3.42 to get cruising rpm down but I figure with well over 1,000tq to the wheels shouldn't be an issue.
