2013 STU Discussion!

Its pretty dumb you cant change the clutch to something different. Its such a huge reliability issue on the evo compared to other cars, just another showing of how they're always trying to handicap the evo.
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Joined: Jul 2002
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From: Why do they always call the Evo the Dark Side?
Meanwhile my clutch now has 6 drivers' worth of ProSolo on it... still going strong, knock on wood. Having Chuck Norris teach me definitely helped.
No more Pros for me this year so the clutch should be safe for a while.
(build thread update coming, still processing the datas.)
If we could change it out with an aftermarket clutch what would be the next thing down the line that went? would it be a "wear" item?
Along with what Doug said - think of the clutch as a sponge, absorbing shock. Putting in a stronger clutch is just gonna break the next weakest link. On a VIII the front open diff spider gears will strip, on a IX I'd say breakage in the transfer case too - Richard Jones breaks a bunch of 'em 
After replacing a couple you can do it easily in a garage, or, in the pits the night before an NT (Packwood 2011 yay) lol

After replacing a couple you can do it easily in a garage, or, in the pits the night before an NT (Packwood 2011 yay) lol
Clutch may be a nice buffer to the next weak link, but the next weak link is significantly stronger than the POS stock clutch.
I got quoted $900 (labor only) to install a clutch @ Agile Automotive in MD, does that sound about right? It is an Evo X GSR…they told me that it takes over 10 hours…I can’t believe that it will take an experienced mechanic over 10 hours to do this job, is it really that bad?
Sounds about right.
Shops charge by 'book time'. It may take the tech only 6 hours to replace the clutch, but they and the shop are getting paid for 10 hours. Its how we make money
Shops cant stay in business if they dont make money. I could regularly work a 40 hour week but get a paycheck for 60-70 hours in a week cuz I could get jobs done quicker than book time
Shops charge by 'book time'. It may take the tech only 6 hours to replace the clutch, but they and the shop are getting paid for 10 hours. Its how we make money
Shops cant stay in business if they dont make money. I could regularly work a 40 hour week but get a paycheck for 60-70 hours in a week cuz I could get jobs done quicker than book time
I understand what you are saying, but I personally think it is a bit dishonest to operate in such a way…basically they are lying.
10 hours and 1 hour to “resurface” the flywheel is 11 hours and they could do in 5-6…during the other 5-6 hours they will be working on another car…it is not like they have to wait 10- 11 hours…I don’t see why they cannot make money being honest with customers. Do I still have to wait 11 hours to get my car back even if the work gets done in 5?
I got quotes from other performance shops and they are talking about $700 for everything and that makes more sense, but AP wants $990…the thing is that AP is a lot closer to me…
10 hours and 1 hour to “resurface” the flywheel is 11 hours and they could do in 5-6…during the other 5-6 hours they will be working on another car…it is not like they have to wait 10- 11 hours…I don’t see why they cannot make money being honest with customers. Do I still have to wait 11 hours to get my car back even if the work gets done in 5?
I got quotes from other performance shops and they are talking about $700 for everything and that makes more sense, but AP wants $990…the thing is that AP is a lot closer to me…
an2ny - Three things.
1. This is the STU DISCUSSION thread... please keep it on topic to STU COMPETITION or start a new thread re: shop cost practices...
2. So you would be fine if they say... charged you (easy math) $20/hr and took 6hrs... versus $10/hr and took 10hrs? ($120 vs $100 for those non-math folks) Flip side of that is that if they charged you the 'actual hours'... and then had an issue, something unforeseen.. bolt breaks off, sub frame support bolt for example... then they need to drill it out... tap the hole to be able to be used again... they would charge you 'actual hours' for all of that... TYPICALLY they charge you for 10hrs because that protects them from working over the original quote, and protects YOU from a call like "We need to work 3 more hours to fix something that broke on your rusty underside, that will be an additional $xxx.xx."
3. See #1.
1. This is the STU DISCUSSION thread... please keep it on topic to STU COMPETITION or start a new thread re: shop cost practices...
2. So you would be fine if they say... charged you (easy math) $20/hr and took 6hrs... versus $10/hr and took 10hrs? ($120 vs $100 for those non-math folks) Flip side of that is that if they charged you the 'actual hours'... and then had an issue, something unforeseen.. bolt breaks off, sub frame support bolt for example... then they need to drill it out... tap the hole to be able to be used again... they would charge you 'actual hours' for all of that... TYPICALLY they charge you for 10hrs because that protects them from working over the original quote, and protects YOU from a call like "We need to work 3 more hours to fix something that broke on your rusty underside, that will be an additional $xxx.xx."
3. See #1.
an2ny - Three things.
1. This is the STU DISCUSSION thread... please keep it on topic to STU COMPETITION or start a new thread re: shop cost practices...
2. So you would be fine if they say... charged you (easy math) $20/hr and took 6hrs... versus $10/hr and took 10hrs? ($120 vs $100 for those non-math folks) Flip side of that is that if they charged you the 'actual hours'... and then had an issue, something unforeseen.. bolt breaks off, sub frame support bolt for example... then they need to drill it out... tap the hole to be able to be used again... they would charge you 'actual hours' for all of that... TYPICALLY they charge you for 10hrs because that protects them from working over the original quote, and protects YOU from a call like "We need to work 3 more hours to fix something that broke on your rusty underside, that will be an additional $xxx.xx."
3. See #1.
1. This is the STU DISCUSSION thread... please keep it on topic to STU COMPETITION or start a new thread re: shop cost practices...
2. So you would be fine if they say... charged you (easy math) $20/hr and took 6hrs... versus $10/hr and took 10hrs? ($120 vs $100 for those non-math folks) Flip side of that is that if they charged you the 'actual hours'... and then had an issue, something unforeseen.. bolt breaks off, sub frame support bolt for example... then they need to drill it out... tap the hole to be able to be used again... they would charge you 'actual hours' for all of that... TYPICALLY they charge you for 10hrs because that protects them from working over the original quote, and protects YOU from a call like "We need to work 3 more hours to fix something that broke on your rusty underside, that will be an additional $xxx.xx."
3. See #1.
1) I am running the car in STU.
2) According to most people, I will have to do this (new clutch) every year.
3) STU people should be familiar with replacing clutches. See #2
4) It should be a concern to STU people when a replacement clutch, installation, fluids & parts could cost you close to $1,700.
5) My question was if this is the normal price that everyone is paying for this job. Why in the STU thread? See #3. I am Not talking about shop cost practices…I was replying to the previous comment…I didn’t think that was required to create a new thread to reply. Please see my original post.
6) I know that some STU people in my area go to this shop…so maybe they could comment/ help.
7) I see that you are asking me something in your post that is not “STU related” so unfortunately I cannot reply or answer you because of your own #1 & #3 rule.
That said: Do you always launch the car? I only attend local events and almost never launch the car. If I do, I save the launch for the last 1-2 runs of the day. At this rate, the clutch should last quite a long time.
On the other hand, if you launch every single run and attend many events per year, then you're going to go through clutches faster. Also, you need to make sure you have proper launching technique. You need to find the sweet spot between slipping the clutch too long and bogging the motor. Your goal should be spending the least amount of time slipping the clutch as possible.









