Spinning front, inside tire.
Thread Starter
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 13,634
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From: Fresno, CA
If it's tuneable, just pull it out and make the changes? It doesn't really take that long and worth it, if it gets the result you need.
eh.. i'm not sure how significant that change will be, ie deactivating clutch plates or removing springs, compared to a true 1-way system which won't lock under decel at all. Deactivating clutch plates will make it lock less, but on accel as well as decel.
i think the 1-way can be flipped to 2-way, and the 1.5-way can be flipped to 2-way, but you can't go between 1-way and 1.5-way.
i'm almost set on the 1-way 151FG version. after talking to OSG they wanted way too much money. i'll grab that, sell the 1.5way, and do some testing to see how it performs
i'm almost set on the 1-way 151FG version. after talking to OSG they wanted way too much money. i'll grab that, sell the 1.5way, and do some testing to see how it performs
Originally Posted by griceiv
Disagree. You have it backwards.
Maybe on a Sunday drive open on decel well let the car turn tighter. But it's not going to induce rotation.
With the TRE diff, I can carry slip angle on the brakes into the apex at autocross. Couldn't do that with the stock diff.
Last edited by letsgetthisdone; Oct 3, 2018 at 08:58 PM.
All my experience in trucks with spools tells me otherwise. Having the rear locked into a low speed corner make the rear of the car want to step out when you're at the limit of grip.
Maybe on a Sunday drive open on decel well let the car turn tighter. But it's not going to induce rotation.
With the TRE diff, I can carry slip angle on the brakes into the apex at autocross. Couldn't do that with the stock diff.
Maybe on a Sunday drive open on decel well let the car turn tighter. But it's not going to induce rotation.
With the TRE diff, I can carry slip angle on the brakes into the apex at autocross. Couldn't do that with the stock diff.
This is all in reference to rear diffs of course. A front diff has different requirements because the front wheels also have to steer the vehicle.
It's also tires, suspension geometry, weight and balance, surface friction among other things. Unless you're telling us that you take your truck out on a road course or autox course with high performance tires.
Locking a differential together makes it go straight until you can saturate the traction capability of the tires or lift one tire off the ground. While it may be quite easy to saturate the traction capability of the tires on your truck in the dirt and result in oversteer, I guarantee that is not the case with an evo on asphalt/concrete.
Locking a differential together makes it go straight until you can saturate the traction capability of the tires or lift one tire off the ground. While it may be quite easy to saturate the traction capability of the tires on your truck in the dirt and result in oversteer, I guarantee that is not the case with an evo on asphalt/concrete.
I doubt anyone is going to buy this article but the summary gets the point across.
https://www.sae.org/publications/tec...ontent/942485/
https://www.sae.org/publications/tec...ontent/942485/
There are 3 discussions going about diffs, and many from years ago, and I still can't figure if there is anyway for me to curb the bucking without shelling out for a clutch type front diff.
Help Needed please :-)
Help Needed please :-)
Clutch type diff wont necessarily cure the bucking either. Im assuming your car is pretty low and you're on sticky tires. As a test, try raising just the front of your car by 1/2".










