They only offer one lol, 1, 2, 3, or 4 way. As far as I recall you go from 1 to 4 without buying a new shock, it's modular so they simply swap out parts. It may be 1-3 on some chassis and 4 being more "special" and costing more in parts. But the piston and 90% of the build is the same, it just eats curbs like they aren't even there with no lagging droop. On the street with my spring rates it's naturally harsher then normal but it can still be softer then my Ohlins and way more responsive when you turn it up. But you know all of this. It's like comparing a normal benz to an AMG.

 

Is the travel sufficient on the MCS?

For some reason I remember someone here saying that the MCS for Evo platforms had too little shock travel.

 

More then 3x that of the AST's or KW's I had before. What used to bounce OVER the curb on turn 3 at RA by a good 1.5 feet now rides flat.

 

@kyoo @ayoustin are you still using the OE fan controller? and not burning it up with this SPAL fan? where do you hang the controller? Thanks

 

Yes I run the OE fan controller. I just bolted it to my driver side frame rail using one of the available M6 threads in the top of the frame rail. Haven't ever had a problem with it.

 

yea, and not sure, had shop do it.

 

doesnt that heat sink need air flow? or you dont have the bottom cover?

 

Having some air flow over it certainly isn't bad but there's always some amount of flow around the frame rails anyway. If you're concerned about it you could zip tie the controller to the back of the Spal fan but I don't think that's necessary at all.

 

ok thanks. I just want my fan to come off without needing to loosen the IC pipe

 

you could wire a relay up to the fan and have the ECU trigger it to turn on at a certain temp

 

I read in another thread that the ECU signal is variable/low voltage(?), so i thought you still need the fan controller to trigger a relay. I would love to find an alternative eventually

 

The service manual states the voltage on the signal line from the ECU to the fan control module should read >= 0.7 Volts on a DMM.

 

Youd need to talk to a tuner who knows the stock ecu's and what they are capable of. I would imagine youd just need a SPI or digital output from the ECU to trigger the relay on when the ECT hits a certain temp id imagine. same sort of output youd use for say a boost solenoid to trigger

 

Tuners here are drag racers and they have no time for consultation and such would be cheap and easy to just use an extra OE fan controller.
My goal is just to make it easy to dump the 100% water-coolant, without removing bottom cover

 

FWIW I put mine on the rail in one of the existing holes and it's been like that for a number of years. Don't mind the filth