I know how fast (quickly they shift), anyone who has played a video game in the last few years knows that!

 

The car put down 360awhp and 396wtq through a modified stock catback... It hasn't even been retuned for the Cobb. I imagine there's a little more in it if you were to go testpipe and retune. That car has always put down some exceptionally nice numbers...

And my car already has the upgraded SST cooler and oil pan (and a great stereo)! If you have any other questions about it, hit me up- I'm happy to chat about it.

 

As someone that sooner or later will want to meet 400hp or a little over without the use of e85 crack or race gas. I think that it would be substantially more then 5k having to use 93 octane to reach this level and daily driving it and making it reliable. Keep in mind I drive close to 30k miles a year. Just my opinion though

 

add cams and an intercooler and you'll be >400whp on 93. the red is a nice turbo, not as laggy as the black, not as torquey as the green, but it will get you to your goal.



we hit 440whp on 93 with an ETS 5857 turbo with basic bolt ons (no cams). the turbo kit is quite a bit more expensive then say a red.


the ETS 5857 turbo kit is 5050 with an intake and UICP and downpipe, VS piecing together the red (1200-1700 new) on a turbular manifold (700-1000), downpipe (500), intake (270) and UICP (240). which would run most likely in the 3200-4000 range. and with that kit there are numerous turbos you could choose from.

 

Kevin, do you have the dyno chart for the one you just did? The one for 5k?

 

I can only agree on the cams being overkill, I have/will have pretty much all that are listed on there as mods. But I cannot see the car going over 400 without getting a better clutch pack. Even DD conditions (not even sprinted) the clutches will blow up if not upgraded.

Plus I plan on hitting 400s on pump 91 (most common in the nation as I road trip a lot dont plan on using "rare" octanes) also to have more torque than HP. I am a **** for torque. Having torque less than hp doesnt make me happy.

My stage 2 cost close to 6k.
ETS dump o2 dp + highflow cat + v2 regular = 1750
AMS FMIC + UICP + SST cooler = 1700
AEM cai = 250
Cobb AP = 595
Tune + dyno = 400
Labor = 1000

Stage 3 that wont blow up on me:
FP Green Turbo = 1600
Cobb 3" FP Turbo Inlet Hose = 115
FIC 1100cc with Pigtails = 500
Bosch 044 inline fuel pump = 200
Grimmspeed 3-Port Boost Control Solenoid = 95 (already have it)
Kelford Cams and Valve Springs = 999
AMS Lower Intercooler Pipe = 300
Cobb BPV = 295
Exhaust Manifold = 900
SSP 600 whp clutch pack = 1300
SSP Upgraded DCT seals = 550

Labor WITHOUT clutch pack = 1700
Labor on clutch pack AND install = 4300
Labor for parts AND clutch pack = 4700.

Parts = 6,760 (plus shipping on all too) Labor = 4700. A little more than 10k...

Pretty much everyone knows more than I do when it comes to modding and evos... As this is my first modded car but somethings do not add up. It is impossible not to get the clutch packs as the stock ones are terrible especially at and after 400. It will NOT hold itself. Even if you do not get the clutch pack, you are still looking at 6.5k for the rest of the parts + labor which is close to the 5k number you have put out, I am not trying to flame you or anything (i am not that type of person... especially on the damn internet) but logically it is impossible to get it all done at or under 5k and have the car run without any problems what so ever.

----------------

Oh man, I have been busy as hell lately. Only sleeping like 3-4 hours... Research, more research, charging phone, gassing up the car to drive to more places, research, more research, charging phone again, gassing up the car again... Keeps on repeating lol. We put in our LOI (letter of intent) to the place so now the task is to finish up the business proposal and get it all going. Financial part of the business proposal is just insane... I cannot wait to set it all up and give you guys the date for the grand opening. Oh man it will be EPIC to see you guys there plus the EVO clogging up the street haha.

Some might to be too far away in like CA or somewhere but you never know if you will find the perfect deal. You can always hop on a 1 way plane and drive her back or transport it you know.

 

i understand your looking to make the totally bullet proof. i respect that big time (may just throw a giant turbo and skimp on everything and hope for massive power, and are disappointed when they don't reach their goal.


we have more experience then any shop in Texas with evos, and know them inside and out, so don't feel like i'm leading you astray.

having personally modded MRs with over 400whp and stock clutch packs, i can assure you, they can hold the power. its the torque that the ecu starts to complain about.

couple things with pump gas, if your targeting 400whp, your going to need the bigger turbo, and with 91, you will never have more torque that power. the timing/boost required to reach 400+ftlb isn't going to be achieved with a green. you can come close with 93, but 91 isnt very good gas. just look at toms, hes got nearly every mod you can do done to it, and its still 375 on 93. expect 20ftlb less for 91. even going to the bigger turbos yet, you sacrifice lag for minimal gains in torque due to the efficiency of the larger turbo. i've tuned several cars into the 500+whp range on 93 pump, but none of them made much torque ( <450ftlb)

a suggestion i have would be to have us tune the car without the accessport, we can set you up with mapswitching, 91 and 93 tunes. so when you cant get the 93, you are still good to go on 91 with slightly less timing/boost.



your stage 2:
ETS dump o2 dp + highflow cat + v2 regular = 1750
AMS FMIC + UICP + SST cooler = 1700
AEM cai = 250
Cobb AP = 595
Tune + dyno = 400
Labor = 1000

obviously your paying for the high end parts here, such as the AMS FMIC, the SST cooler and the full ETS exhaust (quality parts for sure, no doubt). and the accessport isn't necessary and the labor is on the high side for those mods to be installed. we charge 350 for an o2/downpipe combo, 75 for the catback exhaust with the HFC, 100 for the UICP, FMIC and CAI. the SST cooler is 200 to install. thats almost 300 dollars cheaper for the parts installs, and the tune would be 300, so 600 dollars less for the tune (and i'll garantee its as good or better then anything the accessport can do). that alone is 900 dollars you could use for the next stage of mods.


for your next stage:
Stage 3 that wont blow up on me:
FP Green Turbo = 1600
Cobb 3" FP Turbo Inlet Hose = 115
FIC 1100cc with Pigtails = 500
Bosch 044 inline fuel pump = 200
Grimmspeed 3-Port Boost Control Solenoid = 95 (already have it)
Kelford Cams and Valve Springs = 999
AMS Lower Intercooler Pipe = 300
Cobb BPV = 295
Exhaust Manifold = 900
SSP 600 whp clutch pack = 1300
SSP Upgraded DCT seals = 550

Labor WITHOUT clutch pack = 1700
Labor on clutch pack AND install = 4300
Labor for parts AND clutch pack = 4700.

forget the bosch 044 pump first. its a waste of your money, and will only give you more problems VS just using a single walbro 255. the walbro 255 is good for 470-480whp on 93. and adding the bosch as an inline pump will cause issues with part throttle when the pump turns on if your using a hobbs switch, or regulator overrun at idle if its hardwired. we have installed and tuned every imaginable fuel system and i can assure you unless you need more then a walbro (470+whp on pump, 450ish on e85), your making more troubles then your saving.

also, for the injectors, don't buy the plug and play adaptors. they cause more trouble then they are worth. sure, you don't have to clip the stock harness to install the pigtails, but the soldered connection is definately going to work. we have had numerous problems on and off the track with the PnP adaptors having poor connections.

for the cams, be careful not to go to agressive on the duration. more duration will hurt spoolup time, and thus torque. they open it up more on the top end, but sacrificed down low. also, i can get you those cams and springs for quite a bit less then 999. kelford offers a 264 cam as well as the 270.


with the clutch packs, your tranny will not explode with 400whp and stock clutch packs. we have a customer who has tracked his XMR with a FP red on 93 and full bolt ons and no blown up clutches. with open source we can make the shifting and torque limits much smoother then your familiar with right now. even matthews car had over 400ftlb and stock clutches.... no blown up tranny.

again, we can save you significantly on the labor side, and the tuning. we do have proven track results having the fastest street evo in tx, fastest road racing evos in TX, fastest autocross evo in TX, and countless people who are just daily driving their cars happily. we have built multiple SCCA national championship cars from scratch (like literally, the entire chassis and suspension, to the carbon fiber wheels and wings). stop on by sometime, we can show you what we can do.




and Tom, i'll post the dyno sheet when i get to the shop. 430whp, less then 5k spent (on e85). with that said, his stock clutch lasted his drive home and thats it . exedy twin going in this week.

 

This. I've received so many calls, texts, PM's, emails, and IM's about this thread in the past few hours it's enough to make me go crazy.

But seriously, really guys? I feel like I'm running a daycare here. I honestly expect more tact and maturity out of NTEC members and it's sponsor shops. Is that really asking too much? This is local forum, not a big national forum where it's all strangers talking. Most of us know each other, most of us have been to multiple shops in the area. Everyone has their opinion, state it and move on. Prefer a certain shop? Great! Share your own personal experiences and leave it at that, there is no reason to attempt to drag other shops into the mix.

I've already cleaned up a few posts/threads this week to keep members from making fools of themselves, I'm done with that.

 

Here's a post I made over a year ago, but I think it applies to this situation perfectly:
*Smike is no longer a moderator so contact me, or another site mod/super/admin, instead.

 

Bashing stuff removed, please keep this thread civil.

Both shops- Check PMs shortly.

Thanks,

Seth

 

Any luck Krisko?

 

Dyno chart please Kevin. Also your 5K build turned into a 7K build with the clutch. Still need a intercooler upgrade to be safe..

 

don't need the intercooler upgrade to be safe with E85. especially on a street car. you'll never get the IC heatsoaked driving around town. i messaged steve to send me the dyno sheet. for pump gas you don't get the latent heat of vaporization the ethanol has so there is more of a benefit (and safety) in that case.

 

Im hearing lots of stories about everything in every which way on the pros and cons and the signs keep pointing to me keeping my ralliart since its faster than an MR on similar power. Its almost like if i change to an MR im just going to pretty much the same car with higher payment, higher insurance rate (im 24) and a higher payment on brake pads. Id love to see an actual road course with the car but to do that hurt my other goals which is trying to move daughter down here at the end of the year. So getting an MR is still in the plan but getting it at the end of the month wouldnt be smart.

Plus the trade in value for a 2010 Ralliart is currently $20000 at 15k miles. That would be dumb on my part to trade this in now just for the sake of having an MR. However, i do plan to make huge payments on it so i can have equity in the car. Plus if i install a MR TCU into my tranny ill have S-Sport mode and launch control. Hard part is finding one.

Im debating though on if i should go 17in rims or not but i would really like input on what people think about in. 17in can be done on a RA. Im still waiting for replies from KevinD on pricing of the 18s

 

17's will be lighter and the tires are significantly cheaper.

Unless you have a high interest rate, I'd not sweat trying to build equity in a depreciating asset like a car. And if you have a high interest rate, do everything in your power to refinance to 1.99 or lower (penfed, navy cu, etc.).

IMNSHO, get light 17's with good rubber. Get the MR TCU if you can find it and you're sure you can make it work. Potentially look at a brake upgrade (although that will put you into the 18's category) if you're going to track it. Street car? Doesn't matter. Get good brake pads.

You've saved some $$ vs. trading in (as you talked about) and you have a VERY unique car... likely one of the wildest RAs out there. There's something to that vs. being another number in an MR (no offense to the MR owners out there).