Probably so less people recognize him. Could you IMAGINE the massive amount of bull**** you would have to put up with being Chuck Norris?

 

Hey, who's go the Black IX with what look like bronze Rota wheels driving around in Southside all the time. I noticed a turbo timer and exhaust with blacked out windows. Saw you park on E. Carson and go into Nakama on Tues. night. It looks sick.

 

is that the same IX that travels bankville/beverly rd. around 7am weekdays? I always see one on the way into town but i never get a good look. is going outbound toward the village

 

i talked to him maybe 4 months ago cuz hes always around my apt complex in robinson and we pulled up next to eachother at a light and he said hes not on here but who knows maybe he is now but never says anything on here...his car looks and sounds really good though

 

hey guys, i have a non-evo car related question.

late this summer, i helped my buddy replace his clutch and fllywheel on his 1993 mazda mx-6 v6. things went relatively well until we took it for the test drive. he only has about 2 inches of pedal, the rest is complete freeplay. we replaced his clutch, slave cylinder, flywheel, and put in a SS clutch line.

we have re bled the clutch at least about 10 times. it never seems to help much if at all. so i am kind of stumped. he wants to try to adjusting the rod behind the clutch pedal to pull the engagement point up, similar to how the pedal is on our evos. i'm not convinced that will fix his problem. the only other thing i can think of is that something is wrong with his slave cylinder, but that doesn't seem to explain what's going with his pedal, and the slave cylinder doesn't seem weak, and isn't leaking.

so that's the deal. i am a little confused on what to do. i think we are gonna try messing with that push rod behind the pedal, but any other suggestions would be appreciated.

 

Some masters are funny an need rod adjustments to align the internal ports of the unit so that it can automatically takeup the slop in the hydraulics.

A good brake bleed with the proper style of fluid is mandatory for good operation. Many people have trouble bleeding hydraulics. Try the 1 man speed bleeder that hooks to your compressor and creates a vacuum at the slave. You can find it cheap at harbor freight.

 

thanks dan. i will give that a try.

 

Well I guess i would have to ask if you lost hydro pressure while replacing the clutch....The fact you put a flywheel in makes me wonder if you dont have a clearance problem between the pressure plate and the tabs of the flywheel.....Only one way to check, pull the trans and measure the offset .....I have seen it before where aftermarket parts set to far of a tolerence.... End result the fulcrum point in the clutch pressure plate changes ,and the pedal is hard to set/ adj....If it was fine before the clutch was changed , its a dead give away....

 

hell, i hope that is not the case mike. i don't feel like helping him crack that tranny again. lol.

what kind of loss of hydro pressure do you mean? the clutch is still pretty stiff, it just only has like 2 inches of actual use and the rest is freeplay, however, when we pop the bleeder screw and then start pumping it up again, it seems to gain back it's pressure relatively quickly.

i am a complete newb with working on clutches. this was the first, and god willing, the last i will ever help with. haha.

 

Was the pedal ok before you changed the clutch
After you bleed it is it any better
Does the clutch seam to be engaging ok/ Any slipping

 

the pedal was ok before we changed his OEM clutch. it was slippin badly though. 130K+ on it.

after we bleed it, it seems to be a *little* bit better. after the last time we re bled the system, it seemed to gain a little more pedal, and the pedal pressure seems good. if it kept improving at that rate though, it seems like we would have to bleed for years. lol

his brakes are fine as well. since they both off the master cylinder, he should feel a difference in the brakes as well if there is air in lines, right?

the clutch we put in defintely grips quite well, and the engagement seems good. also, it *seems* to be fully disengaging, or at least disengaging enough not to make the car bog or stall while indling in neutral.

once again, please excuse my ignorance. i was basically just a wrench finder/jack holder for this project. this is all foreign territory for me. haha.

 

If it is getting better when you bleed the clutch, it may just be hydraulic......It should take a few minutes when done correctly.....Let me know

 

cool, thanks mike. i think early next week we will be taking the wrenches to it, so i will let you know.

 

i know when we pulled the restrictor pill out of my car over at mike's and we tried to bleed it we weren't getting anywhere even though no more air was coming out. The front of the car was jacked up, after we got it on level ground a huge air bubble came out. even thoug you're probably doing it on level ground now. i don't know man, good luck with that.

 

happy thanksgiving guys.