I was having a hell of a time even breaking into the mid 400's on E-85 with an aggressive tune, 1200's and a double pumper on my stock block. We were running out of injector when we got to the mid 400's on E-85. My IDC was in the low-mid 90's at that point and I just didn't want to push it any further. So eventually that might be an issue, maybe the fuel rail will help, but your IDC is still going to be pretty high.

I hope you pull it off, but 500whp on a good dyno (J&S Mustang or even the one Nate@TPG goes to) is going to be really hard to achieve. Regardless of if it only sees 10,000 miles a year, chances are during those miles you are going to be beating the **** out of it. That will probably be even more of a stress on the motor than just using it as a street car.

 

I think on a dynojet he will see 500. Not on a Mustang dyno though. Nate still using Wyotechs dyno?

 

I think so. That is the last one my car saw, and with everything on it now, its barely over the 500/500 barrier. We didn't push the envelope too far though, and there are still some areas I need to play around with.

 

Its possible that the readings skew less as the numbers are higher, but i know with my car, i have next to nothing done and rolled 340 up there. With E, cams and a red, i think he can make up 160hp.

 

Sounds good to me. I just hope the rods hold, they are the weakpoint. How much torque are you planning on pushing, Eric?

 

Why did you buy a new car when this was your plan? You coulda saved yourself alot of money and bought a built race car and been done.

I would take all the money burning a hole in your pocket and bought some JRZ, Moton, penske coilovers. and beat on about 99% of 500 hp cars with much less hassles. But that's just me!

Good luck Eric! It's your money so do what you want.

 

 

Don't listen to all these haters Eric! Build that bad boy up and road race/drag race it. It's only money, you only live once etc..

However I really think you should aim higher. 638WHP would be a really good start.

 

I wish I could afford to make that much power! The extra 150hp would probally cost another 10k in parts with internals/transmission,tc... and at that point I would have bought a used GT-R.
500wheel should stick with a 600 or a 750 from the looks of most squids riding them which would be cool

As for the torque it seems to be common anywhere from 4-450.


The goal Jeremy was to have a fun street machine to play with and when I'm at the track I can take it out and punish some gt3's and what not but the emphasis was essentially a hooligan mobile since budget was limited or I would have built the motor in the first place and gone ohlins spec coils. Now I have to settle on a budget set.



BTW, who had the stupid fast VIII that I was going to have a friendly race on the 1198 at their private strip? I'm still game for that

 

 

I agree. I would have gone that route doing it all over again. I look at what Curt got in his car and what he paid for it as a good starting point. He basically paid a little less than what I paid and mine was completely stock.

 

Curt got one hell of a car, If I could I would have bought that. Drove and felt really tight. Not to mention satisfyingly fast.

Same with your car brant, at least from the passenger seat. I looked and look and only came across **** boxes for like 27-8k and figured I'd buy new for less than 8k difference.

 

I agree with what Jeremy said, it is going to be tough to put all the power to the ground and make it useable. Suspension first, power second.

 

ok so let me get this straight....the budget for buying a car that was built is more than blowing a brand new motor and replacing it with a new motor within 10,000 miles...thats insane......in the big picture what difference does it make if the car is 400hp or 500 hp if you can get it in the 400 range without too many issues..

No offense, but if you dont want to do the job right and get supporting work done for 500hp...you may have to settle for less...or maybe you bought the wrong car.....

 

Engines have been run to well over 600wheel on 100% stock including cams and stuck together, granted they will never say that they lasted 1000 miles but the stresses of 500wheel should last a while. The car is being built right just with stock internals. I'm also not spinning to 8500rpm with the cams and spring kit only stock revlimit. The revs is whats going to give this thing an early death before the rods bend other than running to much torque.