PCD: 2013-2014 Till We Break It Edition
That cuz you be a super pimp, All-Pro, balla. But, I don't disagree with you. I always advise customers that they should buy the lightest suit/helmet they can afford. If someone isn't sure they are going to do this often, then the lower price of entry is an easy button solution. Especially if someone is trying to get in at a low price.
I had one of these inexpensive suits for my first two races, then ponied up the cash for a better, $700 suit that is lighter (both carry the same level of fire protection [about 3-5 seconds worth). I plan to sell my current suit and get an even lighter one later this year or early next.
I can get Pyrotect (least expensive, as quoted above), Alpinestars, Sparco, and OMP suits for those that want to wear the same gear as their favorite F1 driver and have the money to spend.
I had one of these inexpensive suits for my first two races, then ponied up the cash for a better, $700 suit that is lighter (both carry the same level of fire protection [about 3-5 seconds worth). I plan to sell my current suit and get an even lighter one later this year or early next.
I can get Pyrotect (least expensive, as quoted above), Alpinestars, Sparco, and OMP suits for those that want to wear the same gear as their favorite F1 driver and have the money to spend.
I was just invited to instruct at an HPDE later this year that requires all participants (students/instructors) to be in full fire suits...so it should be interesting...Dan you are going to be there, right?
over the winter my plan for the car was to take my safety items to the next level. I was going to do a fire supression system, H&N restraint, light weight helmet, gloves, suit, and shoes. Along the way that budget got eaten up tho and I'm left with using all of last years gear...
I'm sure some of them will be there...details are still top secret.
Tuesday's NJMP event had one guy wearing a suit...which I genuinely don't mind,--it is safer--but what killed me was the full suit was finished off with NB running shoes and he had a synthetic fiber shirt on under it. 
Skip a TT or two and spend $600 on a proper H&NR.

over the winter my plan for the car was to take my safety items to the next level. I was going to do a fire supression system, H&N restraint, light weight helmet, gloves, suit, and shoes. Along the way that budget got eaten up tho and I'm left with using all of last years gear... 

^ I agree with this guy. Your neck is worth more than $600. you spent $1000 to get track insurance for your car but not a dime to insure your neck. Aint gonna matter if they pay for your car and you sitting in a wheelchair.
I've always try to make my car safe before I make it fast. same with my s2000.
You already have all the supporting items, roll bar, seat, harness. The H/N restraint is the easiet mod in comparison.
Necksgen is similarly to defender, both are good for off angle impact. I have safety solution hybrid. I don't like the HANS brand because it doesn't provide of angle impact, so you'll need seat with halo and also the shoulder belts could pop out, and they require compatible harness.
http://www.necksgen.com/
http://www.defnderneckbrace.com/
http://simpsonraceproducts.com/head-...brid_rage.html
I've always try to make my car safe before I make it fast. same with my s2000.
You already have all the supporting items, roll bar, seat, harness. The H/N restraint is the easiet mod in comparison.
Necksgen is similarly to defender, both are good for off angle impact. I have safety solution hybrid. I don't like the HANS brand because it doesn't provide of angle impact, so you'll need seat with halo and also the shoulder belts could pop out, and they require compatible harness.
http://www.necksgen.com/
http://www.defnderneckbrace.com/
http://simpsonraceproducts.com/head-...brid_rage.html
Last edited by honda-guy; May 17, 2013 at 12:35 PM.
^ I agree with this guy. Your neck is worth more than $600. you spent $1000 to get track insurance for your car but not a dime to insure your neck. Aint gonna matter if they pay for your car and you sitting in a wheelchair.
I've always try to make my car safe before I make it fast. same with my s2000.
I've always try to make my car safe before I make it fast. same with my s2000.
This is the first car I've taken on track that I've actually had proper seats, harnesses and a bar installed. And I did that before I did anything else to the car aside from new tires and fresh fluids. Its also the slowest car I've owned (aside from the E30 that I only held onto for a short time). Up till now i've been backwards with having fast cars and OEM safety equipment.
I agree though, I should step my safety game up sooner than later. I've had more than enough close calls as it is.
I know this guy that can hook peeps up with NeckGen too. Woot.
I have a DefNder...have since the guy in the S2K died at Summit...wasn't worth risking not having one.
DefNder was sued out of existence by HANS but NeckGen is really the same people with a slight variation in the design that is different enough so HANS can't claim infringement.
I have a DefNder...have since the guy in the S2K died at Summit...wasn't worth risking not having one.
DefNder was sued out of existence by HANS but NeckGen is really the same people with a slight variation in the design that is different enough so HANS can't claim infringement.
Last edited by oneday.js; May 17, 2013 at 01:07 PM.
Floor/sill bars: Keep the cage from twisting. Many sanctioning bodies are requiring these as a minimum standard on the passenger side. A car will crumble and twist pretty dramatically without these as a minimum.
Door bars: Keep other cars out of the cockpit. Either an "X" or NASCAR bars are required on driver side (many people run NASCAR bars on driver side and an X on passenger). A modified/bowed X-brace is really a good way to go on driver's side. I wouldn't do any racing without an X on both sides (at minimum).
Rear stays/down tube cross bracing: You are better off with an X between the rear stays than that one horizontal brace (that looks about useless). See Marc's or my M3 roll bar as reference.
Rear stay/down tube to main hoop: Some classes do not allow for additional bracing here...it's a good idea if allowed.
Main hoop diagonal: One diagonal running from behind driver's head to the passenger floor is a must.
Main hoop horizontal brace/Harness bar: needs to be at correct height so harnesses are at the right angle while going over shoulders.
Oh, and: Read the rule book for whatever sanctioning body you are planning to run with for cage requirements/allowances. Then, read the other sanctioning bodies' rule books to make sure you don't do anything that will prevent you from running with them if you decide to later on. Make sure materials are sufficient for your vehicle and meet the rules.
Finally: Weld the tubes together. Don't bolt cage pieces to each other. It's one thing to bolt a cage to the car, but when you start bolting the main to the front stays you are just being stupid.
Door bars: Keep other cars out of the cockpit. Either an "X" or NASCAR bars are required on driver side (many people run NASCAR bars on driver side and an X on passenger). A modified/bowed X-brace is really a good way to go on driver's side. I wouldn't do any racing without an X on both sides (at minimum).
Rear stays/down tube cross bracing: You are better off with an X between the rear stays than that one horizontal brace (that looks about useless). See Marc's or my M3 roll bar as reference.
Rear stay/down tube to main hoop: Some classes do not allow for additional bracing here...it's a good idea if allowed.
Main hoop diagonal: One diagonal running from behind driver's head to the passenger floor is a must.
Main hoop horizontal brace/Harness bar: needs to be at correct height so harnesses are at the right angle while going over shoulders.
Oh, and: Read the rule book for whatever sanctioning body you are planning to run with for cage requirements/allowances. Then, read the other sanctioning bodies' rule books to make sure you don't do anything that will prevent you from running with them if you decide to later on. Make sure materials are sufficient for your vehicle and meet the rules.
Finally: Weld the tubes together. Don't bolt cage pieces to each other. It's one thing to bolt a cage to the car, but when you start bolting the main to the front stays you are just being stupid.
THanks for the info. I was really only looking at that cage for the back half versus the auto power.
What would you put in a track day/NASA tt car? Would either one even be worth the money?
over the winter my plan for the car was to take my safety items to the next level. I was going to do a fire supression system, H&N restraint, light weight helmet, gloves, suit, and shoes. Along the way that budget got eaten up tho and I'm left with using all of last years gear... 

Ok, well since you're safe then its about time you make it fast!



This is the first car I've taken on track that I've actually had proper seats, harnesses and a bar installed. And I did that before I did anything else to the car aside from new tires and fresh fluids. Its also the slowest car I've owned (aside from the E30 that I only held onto for a short time). Up till now i've been backwards with having fast cars and OEM safety equipment.
????Fast cars???? Chur times don't show it...
I agree though, I should step my safety game up sooner than later. I've had more than enough close calls as it is.



This is the first car I've taken on track that I've actually had proper seats, harnesses and a bar installed. And I did that before I did anything else to the car aside from new tires and fresh fluids. Its also the slowest car I've owned (aside from the E30 that I only held onto for a short time). Up till now i've been backwards with having fast cars and OEM safety equipment.
????Fast cars???? Chur times don't show it...
I agree though, I should step my safety game up sooner than later. I've had more than enough close calls as it is.


