Welcome to the #4 club. I dodged that bullet when i lost only the ceramic, and the bore scored above the ring area. Only lost 5psi of compression.

Endyn in Ft Worth TX. He builds 330 HP n/a s2000 bullet proof motors for the track. He's built a 400hp mitsi n/a dragster motor. Theoldone.com. He might be interested enough to build you a nice turbo block. Also cosworth.

The key to HP and longevity is piston seal. Forged pistons need more clearance and rock in the bore, lose ring seal and then melt pistons. You need someone that can build a motor with tight forged piston and ring clearances that will live. Don't buy the .025 huge ring gap stuff, its a sign of a sloppy build with lots of blow by. Some of the 4b11 motors I've seen run huge clearances and sound like a diesel when they're cold and burn oil along with the blow by. The blow by heats the piston up from the start, then you need more clearance to make the motor live. It's a vicious circle.

Cosworth sell a 2.2 stock block stroked motor that isn't sleeved with Mahle pistons. Find a builder that uses these coated Mahle pistons or buy the cosworth short block

Sleeves walk and drop in the bores over time and need a top notch machine shop to install them. There's only one sleeve brand that works in the long term. Endyn might tell you if you call them. They changed suppliers recently.

The stock 4b11 is a masterpiece of japanese precision manufacturing let down by crappy materials in the rods and piston pins. There are very few shops that can match the precision of the factory block which is why an unsleeved block is a very good starting point.

Feel free to PM me...

 

Sounds like the 4b11 is a loosey goosey compared to the iron 4G63

 

Cosworth builds with the same .025 ring gap you speak of.

Plus the cosworth stuff is way overpriced. 2.2L kit itself is $5,600 and the short block build is $9,600. No thanks. I can get a whole built crate motor for that.

 

.025" sounds like bottom compression ring end gap, a bit on the loose side. .0035-.0045 PTW on modern forged pistons works fine.

 

It's official I'm an idiot... Cosworth doesn't have a crate short block on their website anymore. Bushur builds stout crate motors...

 

For the 4B11 engines, I would definitely give English a call Bryan...

 

Thanks. They are currently #1 on my list... and I've known Aaron for years.

So... here is current state of thinking for a rebuild, none of this is set in stone, in fact it's going to take me a bit to get the cash shuffled around for this, but I would love feedback on this list.

Keep in mind I track the car a good amount. Don't do drag stuff. Looking for response and efficiency.

2.0L build

Carrillo rods
Carrillo pistons @ 10.5:1 or 10.0:1 (I run E79 90% of the time)
Stock sleeves (if my cylinder walls aren't munched)
Stock crank

Stock head (either new or cleaned up depending on extent of damage)
GSC +1mm intake/exhaust valves (super alloy exhaust valves)
GSC Valve stem seals
Kelford 214-b cams (I like the stealthy idle quality)
Kelford valve springs or GSC valve springs and Ti Retainers?
ARP head studs

55-60lb/min turbo of some sort. Currently thinking GTX3076, because California stealth

Goal is 450-500whp without having to use too much boost, with good top end.

 

Way beyond overkill on the rods. Save money and go with Eagle Hbeams. They'll more than hold up to your power goals and turbo. They're only $350 from extremePSI, for cry from $1k for carillo's..


Idk much about the 4b11 head, but usually installing oversize valves in an other wise stock head doesn't help much. They end up just being shrouded if the combustion chamber isn't played with (again, not sure if this is true for the 4b11).

As for cams, I've only ever installed GSC S1's in my buddy's X. On the stock turbo they only gained 10whp, but they did help extend the power higher in the rpm's with no bottom end loss. Even off boost they aren't noticeable.

If you ask Aaron, he'll probably tell you the high compression is pointless. Not worth the 2-3% gain for the car to not really be happy on pump gas if you ever need to run it, on top of reducing head gasket reliability. At least that's what he told me for my car.


I would go with an MHI18k. Better spool up and response (also per Aaron lol)...

 

Good to know, I haven't even looked at the price yet!

You aren't the first person to tell me that, good to know.

Yea we have been talking. However every evo I've tuned with higher CR on E85 has been awesome.

MHI18K doesn't have the firepower I'm looking for. I would do a Dominator before a MHI18K anyway.

 

How much boost are you wanting to run?

 

You posted before I got my edit in for a comment on the cams.


As far as the turbo goes, it sucks you're in Cali. A CBRD 7163 kit would be pretty nice...lol

 

I really like the stock head on the "X" and I am sure you know how much better the flow is as compared to "IX's". Not sure much is needed unless yours is toasted.

I don't think + 1mm valves will add the benefit/per cost you are looking for unless yours requires extensive work like you said.

ARP's .....Yes

GTX3076.........Is the previous turbo you ran in the RA no longer available? Thought it was stock housing based...more stealth.

Carrillo rods are good............. did Aaron recommend?

I think 10.5 would be fun (always liked more "pop" in the bang)...but you are the tuner and should have the best handle considering your fueling setup .

If motor is apart consider porting intakes / exhaust items? It's stealth.

Cam selection for good mid range always works but kinda thought "X's" did not
see much in gains again compared to "IX's" and "VIII's"

Overall I have to go with a simpler more conservative approach especially since you appeared to be having fun with the current setup before it went.

Find out what broke and fix it with better. Piston upgrade and rods for sure.

Have fun shopping.

 

1K !!!! I just know my brother used him in his Vette...but he's a baller.

Agree there are way more modest cheaper solutions.....lol

 

24-25psi flat on track. On the street, all of it? ;P

 

Blouch makes the Dominator 1.0 which would be the same as the BBX Lite I had on the RA. That turbo is too small for what I am looking for.

Main reason would be the ability to run less boost for same power, which would be great for track use and heat management.

Yup, thinking about it, but trying to manage the list. I already am going to do the clutch and master cylinder upgrade while it's out as I am still on the stock clutch

I saw an average +30-40whp/wtq gains with the Kelford B's with upgraded turbos on the 4B11's.

Yea, I agree, this is a good sanity check as it's easy to make lists but hard to pay for all the things.