I'll let you know once the car exceeds zero mph

Sounds pretty quiet idling in the shop though!

 

Cool. Adding the test pipe to the wife's MR made the ETS quiet....not so quiet...LOL. Thinking of doing a resonator or mini muffler in the mid pipe right before the rear diff, where the stock exhaust has one, to calm it down a bit.

 

That is exactly what I did (resonator before diff). I am setup with test-pipe and magnaflow catback (3" flange corrected). Going from mil-spec cat to test pipe actually didn't make that much of a difference in sound, probably because of the resonator.

This is the resonator I have been running for a year or two, and the sounds is very deep and good.

https://vibrantperformance.com/catal...products_id=47

~Jaraxle

 

The car is officially back in my driveway!

Now begins the break-in process and wiring up all my new sensors and Race Capture system.

 

Congrats

What kind of electronics are you going to be using?

 

 

Good jam. Glad its back!!!

 

looks like a pretty cool system.

 

Okay, so I found out today that my pump controller DID NOT get fried.

So something else is causing crazy high fuel pressure. Fuel pressure at idle at the outlet of the surge tank is 60psi! At the rail it's 95psi! If I turn the controller all the way down, the idle pressure at the rail drops to 58. Before the rebuild, the car would idle at around 38psi

If I get into any load at cruise or go past 0 psi the fuel pressure shoots up 120psi + wtf.

Looks like I'm going to pull apart the surge tank and see what's going on in there. wonder if there is a clog or something else causing a restriction or something. Maybe something went bad from sitting for a year.

 

Bypass the surge tank to rule it out. Then I would look for pinched lines around engine bay as that is where all the work was done. Possible regulator bad too.

 

Connect to the fuel return after the FPR with fuel hose to a gas tank.
This will rule out everything downstream of the fuel rail.
My guess is you will see the idle fuel pressure drop to where it should be.

~Jaraxle

 

Yea, was going to be one thing I was going to check tomorrow....

 

So, an update...

What I did today:

1. Bypassed surge tank. No change in fuel pressure.
2. Disconnected return line at FPR. Attached hose to FPR and put other end in fuel jug. Started the car and FUEL WENT EVERYWHERE IN THE ENGINE BAY. Why? Because fuel came out of the F'in return line! The OEM metal one that crosses the fuel rail. Made a a huge mess. It literally came back out the opposite way as usual from the return line. I have never seen that happen before.

So I figured, it has to be backed up somewhere causing reverse pressure...

3. Pulled the OEM fuel cup out of the fuel tank. Nothing looked out of the ordinary. Swapped the oem fuel pump to a brand new wally 255. Swapped the OEM venturi to a known good one. Put it all back together. No change in fuel pressure.

ARRRRRGGGGGGGHHHHH.

One thing I did notice is when I turn the car off, the fuel pressure immediately drops to 38 psi. As soon as I start it, it jumps back to 65-70psi.

The only thing I haven't checked so far is the Jegs SS fuel filter on the feed line. Not sure how that would cause the return to reverse flow though...

I think I'm going to just order the Radium fuel assembly now since If I am going to take the damn OEM assembly out again, I might as well put the Radium one in, since I planned on that anyway.

In other news... I took the car for a spin and found ANOTHER PROBLEM. Both Intake and Exhaust cam phasers basically don't fallow target at all. They basically just sit there doing nothing... so I think the brand new phaser solenoids I put in don't work... oh joy!



It looks like the exhaust solenoid will be easy to swap out but the intake solenoid has the power steering pump in the way? Anybody know how much of a pain in the *** that is to move out of the way?

 

Is the jegs SS fuel filter a one way fuel filter? Maybe it got flipped backwards?

 

The fuel tank would have to be getting pressurized for that to happen, but if you are pulling fuel from the tank, it can't be getting pressurized, at least not for a correctly routed fuel line setup. If something were preventing the fuel pump from flowing, the fuel pump internal bypass would send fuel back into the tank, but that would not pressurize the tank. It would just create a small recirculating loop within the tank. My thought at this point is that there is some kind of routing error.

One question for you - Are you seeing 65-70 psi at the rail with the engine running or without it running. If its the latter, then those pressures are not unreasonable. The OEM fuel system sends full voltage to the pump during startup, and rail pressure is supposed to exceed the standard 3-bar value (for no vacuum at the intake manifold).