I have. Removed the oem PCV and put a -10AN fitting + line that vents to before vented to atmos, yesterday I connected it to a vented catch can.

Drivers side I have a hose with a check valve connected to the intake manifold.

Basically I was planning on getting a -10AN fitting welded to the intake pipe and run the -10AN line to the intake pipe to get vac. (basically copy the setup ETS shared a while back that we both where part of the conversation on)

 

Considering running one of the oil cap breathers?

 

alrighty... what I day it's been.

Left work a little early to go through the car.

First thing I pulled all the plugs, all looked fine. Where gapped at .023 so I gapped them down to .019

Pulled check valve... okay F this thing. Never use a UPR check valve... 100psi capable my ***, because:



Where did the check valve ball go?!?!?


Basically I pressurized the crank case with 28psi of boost...
...and yes there was a ball in there before I installed it. I blew into it to see if it was working.

I'm still trying to figure out where the ball went. It can't fit through the opening by virtue of design. So did it get burned up or wtf?!?

Then I did a compression check:



Yay... at least some good news.

So I ended up capping the intake manifold breather port. I then ran the drivers side breather hose to the catch can as well.

I took the car out to see how it was and to grab a burrito. The car drove way better now with both ports vented... Got my burrito... driving home, turned into my neighborhood, car stutters and dies....



Poked around the car while it started getting darker. Figured out fuel pressure was only 7psi, check fuel controller in trunk. Turning it did nothing and wow the surge tank was quiet.... ooooooh... looks like the 450 pump died. It probably hated sitting still in E85 for the last year...

So I limped the car three blocks home.... jayzus what a couple days!

So now... the turbo smokes on start and idle. Good amount too. I thought it would with both ports vented as many people have reported already. So... should I find a catch can with three ports so I can run one to the intake tube to grab some vac?

 

I wish my car ran that well

 

So the polymer check ball disintegrated.............

» Operating pressure 0-100 PSI
» Corrosive Resistant Polymer Ball
» Operating Temperature -30° to 400° F

Wonder if it had a check ball to even begin with ?? .......or it melted. junk...

 

Having a PCV to the manifold + a 10an line to the intake should be fine. I don't really like VTA catch cans, they make a mess.


The turbo may also be smoking a lot right now because when the crankcase saw 28psi of boost, a bunch of oil also get shoved back up the turbo drain line.

 

Did you pop the valve cover in search of the ball? I know it would be 1:million but that is where it would have shot to (in pieces). Hopefully it doesn't end up plugging something important, and instead finds its way to the oil filter. 28psi and that ball gave up. Not cool!
As for going three port can with VAC, I think that is a good idea. If you need even more VAC you can get the vibrant fitting that goes into a spare O2 bung and draws vac via venturi effect in the exhaust. (do not have experience with it first hand)
Not for road use... but I know you only ride on the track and mexico

 

He stole that from my brain... but I wasn't sure if you changed your venting strategy and that's what made it start smoking. You may have oil in the compressor housing itself as well after it got double jammed with oil from top and bottom. You might want to check that to make sure your pipes/intercooler didn't get a nice interior oil coating. Hopefully the dipstick was enough of a pressure relief.

 

Bryan, how is the loudness/note of the exhaust with the dual mini muffler's in the mid pipe?

 

Yea maybe on oil in the turbo. you might be right.

For breather system. This is what I am currently thinking:

-10 AN line from front of valve cover to sealed catch can
-6 AN line from drivers side of valve cover to sealed catch can
-10 AN line from sealed catch can to -10 AN fitting on intake tube into turbo.


Yea I think I'll be pulling stuff to check. I ordered another one of the check valves just so I could see what's inside and what magically disappeared Plus it gives me a reason to swap on the TB port matched intake manifold and larger TB.

I can't really touch the car for at least a week (family in town) but I'm itching to get it running at 100%. It was pretty nasty at 560whp and that was only 26psi out the top, and apparently a crank cased pressurized with the same...

Honestly since I hadn't driven the car in a year it seems loud compared to my Fiesta so it's hard to tell if the mini mufflers changed the volume although I think they slightly did. The big thing they DID do is change the tone of the car. It does not sound like a turbo honda at WOT like most of the equal length manifold 4B's do.

So. mission accomplished on that front...

Around town and normal driving it's pretty tame.

 

I have heard of people installing pumps on SBF engines to actually pull a vacuum in the crank case. Its suppose to help with Ring seal. So I would think running it recirc vs VTA would actually help prevent blowby in the first place.

 

I've seen X's smoke a lot after a boost leak. Friend thought it would be a good idea to plug the crank case breather....LOL


-10 AN line from front of valve cover to sealed catch can
-6 AN line from drivers side of valve cover to sealed catch can
-10 AN line from sealed catch can to -10 AN fitting on intake tube into turbo.
Run a line from the catch can to the PCV port on the intake manifold, with a check valve, and you'll be golden. You need both vacuum sources if the catch can is going to be sealed. Then you'll also want to put a check valve in the line that goes to the turbo inlet, so the PCV can't draw air from the intake through the catch can.


That's good to hear on the exhaust. I'm of the same thinking that most X's with a T3 kit don't sound that great..

 

I need to find a good high quality check valve. I'm a bit gun shy now after this check valve failure.

 

I'm using a broze plumbing check valve from McMaster Car. Rated for all the pressure relative to what we would put it though. Part number (click number, its a link) 47715K23


I have been lazy and haven't put on in the hose going to the turbo inlet, but I have a vibrant check valve to go there since it won't really see any pressure.

 

I've had a Boomba Racing check valve on my car for about 2 years now and its held up. I think Im doing a BLT on my car tonight or tomorrow night so I can check the valve and make sure its still functioning as it should. I have no idea what the ball is made out of but it might be a good option for you...