I understand the basic mechanics of it. I'm just saying everything is even, which I have a hard time believing would be the case if one cylinder had compromised rings. Oil or not.

The scope for sure doesn't show a cap full of oil. It's very little.

 

Is there any way you can set cylinder 3 to TDC and remove your valve springs to check valve stems for damage from contacting retainers and (if no contact) then check valve movement inside guides to verify that it only goes up/down without any play? This is what I would do in your situation.

 

The way I see it is if it is very little, then how are you getting burned oil clumps? If it is little, I'd think the buildup would be layering head in fine layers that you wouldn't see clumps falling onto your piston. And the thin layers would actually burn off.

 

Personally, I do think oil is lealing down the valve shaft somehow. I don't think this is a problem until oil build up keeps your valve from fully sealing. Then your compression and leakdown test will show results.

 

Valve stems looked fine.

Burned oil clumps? Are you talking about the dark little bits? I'm assuming that is from the piston tops being cleaned of carbon while the head was off and it was residual from the cleaning. All four cylinders show a little bit of that. As a reminder this is after only 30 miles that I drove the car home and zero WOT. In fact I don't think the boost even went above 2psi.

I took the car out again and did a couple "IDGAF send it WOT pulls". I'll scope the cylinder again. However the plug came out even darker and I could still see oil on top of the piston with a flashlight.

 

Yes. I thought that video was right after you pulled your plugs. Back to drawing board!!!

 

When your head was reassembled, cylinder 3 was clean and dry?

 

It was. I picked the car up. I drove the car home 30 miles. It sat in the garage for one day. I pulled the plugs on the second day. Then I took photos of the plugs and scoped the cylinders, both of which I posted above.

Then I put the plugs back in. I took the car out because I was pissed and mad and did about five IDGAF WOT pulls (Don't try this at home kiddies). Came back, pulled #3 plug and it was even darker and the piston top was glistening with oil when I looked with a flashlight.

 

I just figured out what "IDGAF" is short for.

 

If the top of your piston is getting wet that quickly then it's pretty likely a ring issue. Even if you had leaking valve seals or guides it wouldn't get the top of the piston that quickly.

 

Pal's build was fine for IIRC 2500-3000 miles before it started smoking and consuming oil.

 

 

Hopefully it's a gen6 1LE package car. Otherwise they have major cooling issues at the track.

 

If your going bowtie, why not a Vette? I hear they make good track *****. The C5's anyway

 

I came to my MR from a 2002 Z06. I bought it with 12kmi from the original owner. He had a 5 bay temperature controlled garage. Completely stock. I put a filter and tune on it and speed bleeders, that's it. It never asked for anything despite many many many Watkins Glenn track events. The front rotors were like 36 bucks if I remember right because they were a generic GM part number. I used carbotech xp-12 pads. She never complained. Never broke. Nothing. Not a drop of oil burned.....
but your a turbo addict. Perhaps an RS3 would fit you better if your going to spend that much (zl1 coin). Apparently if you sneeze on them they make crazy power. The five cylinder sounds amazing...