Refreshing one cylinder is fine.

 

Should/can I replace bearings and rod bolts too?

 

Rods bolts should be fine. The Carrillo bolts can be cycled a lot. The bearing, it depends on how it looks. IIRC it was fine. You "can" replace whatever you want though it's not really needed.

Prob just throw rings at it.

 

Yeah you previously said bearings looked righteous. I didn't see any pics of the bore or piston out of block....just wet deck top scope pic . I would say minimum re-ring.
Re-hone that cylinder possibly?
( Probably be Ok ) See what LGTD advises. Not sure how many miles have gone by since bores were originally honed.
I would have many eyeballs on # 3 piston for any flaws. If any doubt then change it out.
Flush with ample amounts of holy water.

 

So what should I make sure is checked/done when replacing all rings on one piston while the motor is still in the car?

Want to make sure this is done right.

 

Make sure it still has good cross hatching on the cylinder. and then try to run the new rings pretty had from the get go, make sure they seat since the cross hatching isn't brand new.

Ideally the motor comes out and you run a ball hone through that cylinder, but its not 100% necessary. Its also worth looking at the rings closely. You my just have an issue with oil control rings and can just replace those and leave the compression rings.

 

wouldn't be a bad idea to take a bore gage and measure the cylinder for roundness and tolerances.

 

Hopefully that would go without saying if he's using a shop that has any business being inside engines

 

Truth, but considering how far this project has strayed, such an assumption might be too generous.

 

Well sir ....You pretty much have tried to do everything "right" with your build. Nevertheless you get plagued like I do when attempting to change vehicle performance.Your current situation could be as simple as the oil ring end gaps got lined up either @ install (usually assemblers know better)...or they could have moved from their assembly location during use as they can do.

Since previously you said everything "looked" Ok upon inspection .....the best suggestion is to replace the oil rings. Setting ring gaps accordingly.If there is no unusual wear .... in the bore (cross hatch pattern is apparent) or with the piston and skirts, it can be re-installed. Inspect the ring lands closely for any strange wear.

Now you can go a couple of ways with the compression rings. Re-install the originals from their original top/ bottom positions as they were previously installed. Check the end gaps in the bore and measure. They did previously pass leak-down and compression testing. Or you can install a completely new set of oil and compression rings and hope they seat well.

If you decide to go the super long @n@l route then it would entail block removal and disassembly to allow that #3 bore to be re-honed. Block would have to be thoroughly cleaned and motor re-assembled after installing new components. Possibly new piston as well if you want all components replaced. This would have the most optimized break in opportunity.

So doing the right thing is all what will make you sleep better at night. Best of luck.
You are just like my brother.... sh$t blows up...He fixes it and runs it harder...Lol

 

Head is back off. Piston is back out.

I have to say, the piston looks almost brand new never used which is good I guess.

Cylinder walls look good too, just a small amount of pistons slap trace. Next step is measuring cylinder roundness.

 

So you wan to know cylinder dimensions, ring end gaps, and then also make sure none of the rings were upside down.

 

For people that have had to pull their car out of a shop without it being done. Was it worth it? Was it a pain in the ****? Did you regret it?

It's now going on five months this time and the car literally isn't any closer to being fixed. Guy does good work but literally takes forever and then I bug him for months and maybe he gets it finished. I asked him if he is going to check the roundness of the cylinder that has the oil issue and he said he needs to figure out the tool which is a yuge red flag for me.

At this point, I'm okay with paying another shop IF I know it won't take another year to get done. Down side is logisitically it will be a pain in the *** for me as I now live 3,000 miles away from the current shop, the car has the top end off and can't move under it's own power...

 

Wow, that's terrible to find out the shop you trusted with your car starts to throw up red flags now, after all this time. Good luck finding someone who will relocate your car to another shop.

 

Yea, def has made me disinterested in this car. I really just want it fixed so I can sell it and move on.