That's the kicker, I have all keys/ecu/etacs/key barrel/weird coil around key barrel...seriously the only thing(I'm aware of) that is electric/electronic that ties into the system that HAS NOT been swapped is the front door switch panels. I dunno if they have any kind of security associated with 'em and can't find any direct answer so next time I'm at the cars I will swap those as well just to be certain. Then I'll be stumped and killing the immobilizer.
Does anyone know what all is tied into immobilizer? From Mitsu site it seems like ETACS is deffo part of it, after that things get murky.

 

So then going through pics and the parts I got around my place I realized the steering column switch stalk thing got swapped and so the 8 one is in with all the 9 bits, will swap that out as well in case it has anything to do with immobilizer.

Blue scribbles give it away as I marked stuff coming off 9 only. With luck this is the culprit to no turn over of car. Anyone know if any security system functions happen in here?

 

So last weekend I hadda go help my mom move, the roads in Alberta are seriously hazardous from lack of care, it's sketchy AF.
This weekend though? Many successes and a couple 'o new mysteries to solve.

Man I take garbage pics most of the time! But, this was the culprit with immobilizer and now the engine turns over...which leads to a mystery!

Trunk swapped, man does it fly open without the weight of the wing slowin' it down!

Hood back on, went white cause paint in better shape.

What's that? Well kids, it's an Evo! That will turn over but not start...
As for mysteries. Now the power locks don't do anything so next up I swap switches to see if that fixes things then I'll be stumped, hoped it would be cool with steering stalk assembly but something else is gimpy.

Why does the ACD pump leak? That groove has an o-ring that's shriveled to junk and nowhere I went today had any o-rings in stock. "Dafuq?" I says, how does a city have none to retail?

Can this thing upload a small video? The sound is what matters.

 

Okay, so I bought new NGK(last set in town!) plugs and will swap out E3's tomorrow when I go to car just to be sure it's not wonky plugs. Pump is running, made a nice mess under hood checking so it has fuel.

Nice new plugs, not sure what else to check or how...gonna be a long night sleuthing this malarky.
How the hell do I load a video!?!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajUQ...ature=youtu.be
Well, I figured out how to make youtube link...but this is another me outta my element situation so could really use some advice to point me in a direction as now my wheels are spinning because my wheels won't spin!

 

first check to see if its throwing any codes. Then you need to verify if the engine is getting fuel and spark. There are different ways to go about doing this, one easy way is to pull a spark plug after cranking to see if its wet. A way to check for spark is to stick a screwdriver into one of the ignition coils and have someone hold it while you crank ....or there are some less evil ways to go about checking for spark lol. I've got a little test light that goes inline with the coil and the plug but I'm sure there are other ways to do it on the cheap.

 

Okay, so if it's throwing a code that would point me towards the crank position sensor? I mean, if it's the right code...evoscan works right? I have a 1.3u..r...whatever, the flasher one.
If it's sparking the screwdriver...do I do each coil and if it sparks does that mean coils are good and there is spark? I just looked up/learned what a spark tester is, thanks for that. Which points me towards...
Fuel is good I think, left return off rail and turned on car then had fuel all over under hood, my catch scheme failed it all made me nervous and tomorrow when I get a spark tester(10$ why not) will be snagging an extinguisher cause no bloody way umma burn this biotch down. Tank was drained and 20l(like...4gallons-ish) of fresh fuel in it.
Injectors...

 

You can pull codes with evoscan. You could also log and make sure all the sensors are working. You should see rpm when cranking, ipw, ignition timing etc. Timing will be locked to 5 degrees advance while cranking. If you are getting a code then deal with what ever its complaining about.

You really only need to test 1 coil at this point. If only one is working you would still get some action during cranking.

Another thing that came to mind, make sure your cam angle sensor isn't 180 degrees off.

 

Thanks for the help man. I'm a little confused about exactly what that means or how to do it with cam sensor position.

Is this what I need to figure out on the cam sensor question?
So I should just order a new sensor anyway, yeah? See if today this is sorted, if not tonight order new ones. I'll get cam and crank sensors as it's sorta gotta be one of those as far a sensor goes if I'm understanding this. Would the cam sensor get out of alignment when a car rolls over in the snow?
Sorry if these questions try patience but it really helps to have real feedback from people with same platform even though I'm realizing there ain't nuthin' particularly special about Evo individual components.
K, so I have a clue on how to check spark and fuel and sensors...sorta...what else could cause no start for me to look at?

 

Then of course now after it's maybe too late I learn about hydrolocking an engine.
But it sat for years, would any oil seep out? Nothing sounded bonkers when I did turn it over so later I'll pull plugs and see...nothing I hope. Then try cranking it with plugs out and see if any goop goes spraying in any sorta way, again hoping for... maybe fuel cause injectors will fire? But hope for no oil/grime type stuff to come outta plug holes?
Is this correct thinking?

 

So inside the cam sensor housing there is a cylinder that actually bolts to the cam and spins with it. It has 2 different width notches in it and with the timing marks all lined up the notches need to be how its showing in the lower picture you posted, if they are reverse of that it will be 180 degrees off and the engine wont run. The only way it could be backwards is if you or someone else had unbolted it and put it back on backwards by accident. If it has never been disassembled then its probably not an issue. The ECU should throw a code for a bad sensor, so I wouldn't just throw money at it until you can verify that is the problem.

 

It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to do a compression test. If junk does come out of the spark plug holes that would be bad, but I don't think you would have hydrolocked the engine without some insane amount of cranking attempts.

 

I've never pulled it so oughta be fine. I'm gonna start with pulling plugs and cranking in case it's hydrolocked as it seems a possibility to eliminate. Same time check spark. If injectors are firing there should also be fuel from plug holes I think from what reading stuff...guess I should look for video to corroborate. Oh, that would flood it, but with fuel so it can evaporate just fine.

 

Zut alors! So I'm just gonna order an ACD pump rebuild kit, the o-ring I found didnae manage to stop the drip drip dripping.
Then the rest...3 of the bolts for fender busted and now need drilled out, no I did not torque on 'em like a savage, they surprised me breaking so easy. Fine, whatever.
Starting the thing...welp, my tactrix cable got outta the laptop bag so didn't get to see if any codes are throwing, guessing yes because it's not starting and for sure there's fuel to rail BUT injectors are not firing(you'd smell gas from no spark plugs in, correct? please answer this) and no sparking on plugs with tester, here's a vid. I tried 2 sets of coils, stockers and diy Yaris coil cop that was fine for 3 years before crash.
Please any advice would be helpful. I currently suspect my crankshaft position sensor because no spark OR injector pulse, is this correct? Yeah I know, check codes and I will, but until then someone knows stuff and they could share info to...help my mania and maybe I order more parts. Also anyone have any idea what the roboty clickity sound is? I have no clue, none. It's freaking me out a little!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRTA...ature=youtu.be

 

Next thing I would check is power at the injectors and ignition coils. You can use a multimeter or a test light. You want to see battery voltage at the connectors for the injectors and coils with the key turned on.