No, I always felt the car was already a bit unpredictable thanks to the cheapo coilovers. So I left the stock sways.


Would a 24mm whiteline be enough?
Noted on the front brackets, will pick those up from Ciro.

 

FYI
I run Robi's recommendation:
9k front/11k rear (he actually suggested 8/10 but these are the only springs I have), OEM FSB, his RSB (25mm, I believe). He recommended the spring rates due to effectiveness and tire wear. I believe I remember him saying I could go stiffer, but it wasn't worth the trade off. Oh, and I made adjustable end links for both bars.
Everyone disagrees, but I will take his advice over popular internet opinion of people I don't really know LOL
So far, I have no complaints on how the car drives.

 

^^^ A few years back, I garaged w/Robert F & picked his brain a bit on the FSB. He noted to leave it stock (Mueller had similar advice as well)

 

if you plan on running wider or stickier tires in the future, go with 12/14. the 12/14 doesnt feel overly stiff on my car at all on the street. i think the bilstein actually feel more harsh. the DFV on the ohlins are really nice for street.

 

With those spring rates and your upgraded diff I would leave the stock sway bars. You'll start picking up the inside rear on hard cornering and push. For reference I am on FA 2-ways 12k/14k with the Weir 12-plate on stock sways.

If JDavenport were still active on the board he could give a bit of insight as well. He was on AST's with a RSB (not sure of the spring rate or brand) and went back to stock sway bars. On the softest setting in the rear he was picking up the inside rear in Turn 1 at Road Atlanta. Was losing time as the car would push when the tire lifted.

 

8/10 just seems soft. 9/11 would require buying two sets of springs. 10/12 is a pretty well accepted spring rate setup around here.

 

Agreed on all points. Like I said, my setup isn't popular by any means LOL. It may just be specific to my car. He took a lot of variables into consideration before advising me what to use.
And I do pick up a tire on really tight turns. Like AutoX tight. That's how I found out my rear diff is toast LOL:

 

That corner is banked, hard to judge body roll...lol.

 

The Hothckis hollow RSB is unfortunately discontinued, but if you can find one it offers a friendly range of adjustments. The softest setting is only slightly stiffer than stock and makes for a very forgiving setup with springs rates similar to yours. The stiffest setting improves handling but makes for a slightly more twitchy car.

The 24mm Whiteline bar is one step more aggressive than the Hotchkis. The softest WL24 setting is close to the middle Hotchkis setting.

 

I think the problem with all these canned statements of what you should run is that they are far to blind to setup differentiation. Roll centers drop at different rate front and rear, weight distribution can shift quite a bit depending on mods, everyone is going to have different camber, tire pressures, tires, etc... The list I'm sure can go on and on.

Any setup you find online is only a starting point. Here's just a couple things I can generalize,

- Hiking up an inside rear isn't bad but plowing over on the front outside tire is. Most evos lift a tire cause front outside drops so much, think wobbly chair, one side down other side up.
- The more you lower the car, the more front bar you need. Roll center drops at 3:1 with CG drop.
- You are probably not close enough in perfect bar/spring setup to us middle settings. Your bars are most likely best at one extreme or the other. At a minimum, one end should be full soft or full stiff, but try them all.
- Adding front caster adds toe-in bump steer, keep it in mind if you are trying to fix a darty car with other solutions.
- Don't make small changes, always overshoot. If you guess you need 2 more clicks up front make it 4 and see if that was too much. Its called bracketing.
- Only way to learn is try new things
- The internet is probably wrong

 

My car's notable suspension mods (besides the cheapo coilovers) are:
Whiteline RCK/bumpsteer kit
Perrin PSRS (offset for added caster version)
Whiteline rear trailing arm bushing
Whiteline rear bumpsteer correction bushing
The fron LCA's are level, or a tick below level (pointing "up" towards the tire) the rear camber arm is a tick higher than level. Car has a bit of rake.

 

Would you be able to measure a couple things for me on yours? I need it for my model to validate.

Need your height from ground to fender (and tire size since dia counts)
Height from ground to lower control arm inner bolt center.
And measure angle of control arm (phone app) along the casting seam line.

Both sides if possible to average out the error of the floor level.

 

Yeah, I should have time on sunday. My car is also corner balanced, so I don't think ride height is perfectly even left to right.

 

But you can still see the tire lifting . Not as bad as a guy I saw at autox, one day. R-comps on a stock setup. It must have been 6" off the ground. crazy.




+1. Like I was saying above...

 

For those of us that simply track day & street the EvO, dont over complicate the details involved in tuning up the EvO suspension

There are recipes that work w/out getting into the unnecessary & over complicated finer details that produce little results