ignore all the bla i just said. everything is fixed and done.

 

Glad you got it fixed. :-)

 

now i just need to drive the car and see if she will work.

i hope i can go pass emissions finally.

 

I installed the map sensor per MRFRED's instructions, triple checked all the values in the roms/ecuflash tables, but now my ecu is causing a boost cut.

My values in my greddy spec 2 BC have not changed since the stock USDM MAP sensor. It would spike to 28 and maintain 22 till redline. Now I hit boost cut even on my low boost setting of 23psi. Evoscan, however, reads 33psi no matter what I put in the formula.

Whats going on?

 

romid?

evoscan log?

boost limit table?

 

Darnit Dave, I was hoping you could just read my car's mind and fix the problem.

Ill post up tonight. Till then, I'm stuck backfiring my way to class

 

I installed my 3-bar last night - entered everything into the rom correctly (triple checked it).

When I first started the car it didnt want to idle at all...its would bounce from 1000 rpms to under 500 rpms then kick back up. So I shut the car off and re-flashed it + reset the computer (just did it to make me feel better). Then the car finally after about 2 min idled ok (I guess it re-learned).

So then driving it at part throttle I get blips/sputter for a second here and there between shifts and also lifting and getting back on the gas (grandma driving). Other than that it seems to be ok once you get past that sputter....

Then this morning it did not want to cold idle - again went to 2k rpms and well under 500 almost shutting off and back up again. So I started driving and it sputtered some and finally felt good again. The car sat for probably an hour or so and I started it up again and seem to idle ok so I guess it re-learned the cold idle and everything is fine.

The driving part still gets some blubbers at part throttle driving - and I have yet to go wot because I ran out of time and watching the Pens sweep the Sens. was much more important to me.....so hopefully that will be ok.

So has anyone else had this issue of a slight sputter here and there?? - I never had the issue before the map swap. I am going to keep driving it and see if it gets better maybe the computer will re-learn and eventually go away.

BTW this is on a IX w/15 rom.

 

The mods required to make the JDM MAP sensor compatible with your ROM wouldn't affect idle if done without mistakes. Hate to say it, but sounds to me like something got missed or done incorrectly. Another possibility is that the flash did not go correctly. One one or two occasions, I've seen a flash not go correctly on my car leading to unusual performance. Reflashing with the same ROM has always fixed it though.

 

Yeah I understand what your saying - I checked again this morning and all the values were right? Im going to copy everything over to a new rom today at lunch and re-flash the car, this will make me quadruple check everything.

Is there anything that would cause that blip/sputter at part throttle - while it does seem to be getting better the more I drive its still there from time to time on my commute today. Like I said I will re-flash again with a new rom and see what happens..

Hopefully your not taking it as I am complaining because you have done an excellent job with this and I thank you - just trying to get it worked out on my end

 

Definitely want to help, and understand that you're doing your best to get it working. :-) Every once in a while something like this comes up. In one instance with an unusual ROM that I had not looked at carefully (96420008), I found I had missed a few values that needed converting, but for this ROM which is the one I use, I know it works. :-) It should work perfect from the first time the car is started, so don't settle for "running better" after a little while. Something got missed. Keep at it, and I'm sure we'll figure out what's happening.

 

I was wondering, is the MAP sensor on the evo used as an input to the ecu so that the car can decide to open the EGR valve or not? I don't know how the MAP sensor would cause any stumble or erratic idle unless something else is messing with airflow through the motor at inappropriate times. If you pull the plug to the EGR does the valve default open or close? I suggested to travis that he pull the plug, and I know it would throw a CEL, but I'd hope the valve was closed because driving around with the EGT open all the time would be super bad for a lot of things.

Just a thought.

 

yes it does - which is why you need to do all those extra XML bits for it to work.

mrfred will correct me if I am wrong, but you are basically rescaling the MAP table with those XML's

 

Thats what I thought. Travis's car is acting like a classic malfunctioning EGR valve (bad idle and poor part throttle cruising). This may be due to an improperly scaled EGR and the ecu thinking its OK to open up, when in reality, he is still in high vacuum idle conditions and not near atmospheric manifold pressure cruising conditions.

 

Also if you were to remove and plug the white vacuum line going into the top of the TB the EGR won't be able to open. If anybody would like to rule the EGR valve this should do it. Just reconnect it before you go in for an emissions check .

 

The MAP sensor isn't used as a signal to decide to open/close the EGR valve. Its only used to determine if the EGR system is working properly.

I hate to say it, but I'm sure its either a bad flash or there was a mistake in setting it up.