Jamie:

You are the man bro! I know you spent allot of time to make this easy and possible for the community and you did a great job! Keep up the good work!

Chris

 

Can I ask what parameters you guys are using for your NLTS? I dropped mine down to 100 load and 80% throttle and I seem to get one quick bounce and then it still revs. Also, I don't know if it makes any difference but I set mine up similar to dsmlink with a 3500RPM drop window.

I checked mine by setting it to 0mph, 0 load and it is definitely working there, but on the road it doesn't seem to keep doing its thing.

I can't tell if I'm just being scared and lifting just enough or what. I have it in my 2g and it was never a problem, but I was probably less worried about blowing a tranny in that car.

 

I set mine for a 1000rpm drop, 100 load, 95% tps. Everyone who first used the NLTS in his previous patches had experienced the "punch in the chest" feeling by slightly resting your foot on the clutch pedal and reactivating the NLTS just after you had made a gear change.

 

im today test
my set mine for a 800 rpm drop,0load;98%tps;0km/h

 

You will probably want to bring your load and speed up after the test... I'm not sure if that was clear or not

 

I just wanted to double-check. I have the new harness and since I already have my car apart, I wanted to install it. Since I don't have a V5 rom yet, is it okay to have the harness hooked-up without it? It should just sent a signal to the ECU, but not do anything, right?

-Jason

 

If you hook up the harness you will be 100% fine if you don't switch it to on, just set alternate maps to ADC0F=1 (you may be ok setting it to 0 also, but either way best if you don't flip the switch until your maps are in.)

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FYI, I rocked the NLTS on tonight with a little more open road and it worked flawlessly. I'm planning on lowering the drop RPM (1650 is looking like a good amount from my logs) a bit and possibly adjusting the clutch sensor a bit. The car falls flat on its face for a second as the clutch is re-engaging and the limiter is still active. It helps to dump the clutch harder on the shift, but since I still have a pill I don't think it can quite make it out fast enough.

It is a really good idea to use the test to get a feel for when the clutch sensor would dis/engage. I've heard alot of those stories on the DSMLink forums and it seems like the best idea is to just make sure you are actively on the dead pedal. Its a good lesson though, because like the trigger of a gun your foot shouldn't be on the clutch unless you are using it

 

OMG that crap is a crazy feeling when you do it by mistake or when the person you flash there car doesnt realize how senstive there clutch switch is.

 

YEah, I highly recommend any NEW user of the NLTS feature sets there TPS to 20%, KM/h to 0, load to 0 and rpm drop to 1000rpm. Then rev the car to 2500RPM while parked and simply rest your foot on your clutch pedal (BARELY touching the rubber pad with your shoe) and slowlllly start applying pressure to see how LITTLE you need that pedal to be depressed.

Its definitely good to teach yourself how sensative your clutch switch really is.

 

Thanks man. I remember how hard it was to get my feet wet with this stuff when I started so I figured I'd make the learning curve a bit easier for the new guys

 

Now that I think about it, the Patch doesn't have anything to do with the boost limit table addresses. It must be an ECUFlash XML error. I run v1.34 and I had the incorrect Boost Limit RPM address of 6B7E (thats the 94170008 address) so I had to change it to 6DD2. Again, not related to the patch, its an ECUFlash XML error.

 

yes
i was my first test
I m going to change the load and the speed then

 

What is that is normal that I find these values
the probleme baterry voltage ? or good ?
thank

 

the right address of the injector battery voltage latency is 37c0.Check in your 96530006 xml file.Check "Desired Idle RPM-Neutral"(address 426c) and "Desired Idle RPM-Drive"(address 427a) too

 

i have these address in the xml ,but not work not