DIY Transmission Re-Build Tips
the output shaft roller bearing snaps onto the rear case, and this prevents the bearing from rubbing against the 6th gear on the input shaft.
much better to go to the 5-speed. the only factory available upgrade, that i know of, is the improved 3rd/4th gear set from mitsu. it eliminates the play in those gears, which has caused failures.
Hmm i think so i sell my 6 speed and change to 5 speed! Can you tell me what i must change? I have a euro evo 9! I know that i need others tranny mount, shifter cabels and shiftbox. But whats about clutch? I have a exedy twin hd install! Work it with the 5 Speed too? And what kind of trannys can i install evo 5 6 7 8? Are there some difference? And what ist the best one?
clutch is the same, you need the small 5-speed wiring harness that goes to the reverse light sensor and speed sensor. clutch is the same.
i like the evo 8 speed ratio's the most.
i like the evo 8 speed ratio's the most.
Sanity check please:
Using .001" dial calipers here is what I have...
Input shaft solder crushed to .071" (hits 71 on gauge)
Current input Shaft shim is .056"
That would mean my current clearance is .015"
I believe this to way WAY outside the limit and I just replaced the input shaft bearings...
Am I using my tools wrong here?
Would this mean I need a .0675" (1.7145mm) shim?
Using .001" dial calipers here is what I have...
Input shaft solder crushed to .071" (hits 71 on gauge)
Current input Shaft shim is .056"
That would mean my current clearance is .015"
I believe this to way WAY outside the limit and I just replaced the input shaft bearings...
Am I using my tools wrong here?
Would this mean I need a .0675" (1.7145mm) shim?
Last edited by tsitalon1; Sep 23, 2014 at 06:28 PM.
Sanity check please:
Using .001" dial calipers here is what I have...
Input shaft solder crushed to .071" (hits 71 on gauge)
Current input Shaft shim is .056"
That would mean my current clearance is .015"
I believe this to way WAY outside the limit and I just replaced the input shaft bearings...
Am I using my tools wrong here?
Would this mean I need a .0675" (1.7145mm) shim?
Using .001" dial calipers here is what I have...
Input shaft solder crushed to .071" (hits 71 on gauge)
Current input Shaft shim is .056"
That would mean my current clearance is .015"
I believe this to way WAY outside the limit and I just replaced the input shaft bearings...
Am I using my tools wrong here?
Would this mean I need a .0675" (1.7145mm) shim?
your old shim shouldn't be used in the calcs. I would select a 1.61mm shim (MD723609) but you may push it to 1.70mm shim (MD756760)
Unless you see an issue, I'm going to order the 1.70mm shim as I believe it's better for daily shifting to be on the tight side of the spec.
you might get a more accurate reading with a dial gauge, because you are measuring directly.
With solder you are transferring the distance to the solder then measuring that.
Spec = Input shaft end play: 0.05 − 0.17 mm (0.0020 − 0.0067 inch)
My clearance without a spacer is .071"
Current spacer is .056" - too much clearance! (.015")
So I ordered a few shims from shep in the .0657" to .0665" range, this should get me to the right spec....i hope
Last edited by tsitalon1; Sep 24, 2014 at 05:29 PM.
If you go too tight on the input shaft it'll make it more difficult to engage first gear from a stop. I like to set the input shaft clearance on the tight side of OEM spec, like around .002" freeplay.
I took mine off and I'm thinking on taking it apart. The issue is that everytime I press the clutch while driving it makes a rattling noise. Any input on this? Could've been the clutch? It shifts smoothly while cruising no grinds or anything







