ATTN: FP Red & Black Users - What You Need to Know About Oil
Is the Amsoil with the higher zinc better for stock motors than the regular Amsoil?
And, I thought the different weights of oil greatly depend on what your bearing clearances are. And for a stock block car, 30 weight is the best chioce until you decide to change the bearing clearances (built motor)
Thanks
And, I thought the different weights of oil greatly depend on what your bearing clearances are. And for a stock block car, 30 weight is the best chioce until you decide to change the bearing clearances (built motor)
Thanks
I'm running valvoline nsl 5-30. It's yellowed, and the label says balanced with detergent . Is this still good to use on the street ? I don't have a cat , so the nsl portion won't be a problem, just trying to figure out the detergent things..
Well I am unsure how much detergant it has if any. I know the AMSOIL Racing Dominator has a minimal detergant package and should be changed after no more then 3k miles. So unless you can figure out for the VR1 I would say 1000 to 1500 miles as I would be iffy about running it longer and not having the knowledge as to if the oil is contaminated or not.
What about this? http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Det...083_0006411555
Its street legal unlike the NSL and its still synthetic
Its street legal unlike the NSL and its still synthetic
Im going to run the Non synthetic 10w30 Valvoline VR1 Racing oil as its listed in the Appoved oils from FP as other non synthetics are so I am assumeing this is ok. This comes in a Silver Bottle and has a high zink and phosphorus count and its higher then the Amsoil 10w40 AMO.
Here is what I have a case of now.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ng-motor-oil/6
Here is what I have a case of now.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ng-motor-oil/6
Last edited by BEISSEN; Nov 19, 2010 at 12:19 AM.
If you look at FP's list of appoved oils in yellow my understanding is that the Non and the Synthetic are appoved due to the Zink and Phos count being high. The NSL is fine but what you showed is the VR1 Synthetic no the NSL as NSL=Not Street Legal and don't ask what that means I have no clue. There are several VR1 Racing Oils Non,Syn and NSL. I got a case of the Non and I am going to run it unless brian from FP tells me I can not lol. Then I will spend the extra money but I think I have the hook up if it was Synthetic from my frined who works at advance and I will pay bucks no 8.13 at Napa's rip off prices.
Im going to run the Non synthetic 10w30 Valvoline VR1 Racing oil as its listed in the Appoved oils from FP as other non synthetics are so I am assumeing this is ok. This comes in a Silver Bottle and has a high zink and phosphorus count and its higher then the Amsoil 10w40 AMO.
Here is what I have a case of now.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ng-motor-oil/6
Here is what I have a case of now.
http://www.valvoline.com/products/co...ng-motor-oil/6
The problem with the VR1 doesn't say how much detergent is in it so I am wary of running it for even 3k miles. I have the VR1 in my car now but will be changing it as soon as I get back to the states and putting the RD 15w-50 as it has enough detergents to last for 3k miles.
I dont plan to run it more then maybe 2-2500 at max basiclly every 2 months change my oil as I can get a case of the VR1 at 60 bucks a case of 12 so it will be ok not a bad deal compaired to mobil 1 at 25.00 for a 5 qt jug times two is 50 plus as another 15 bucks for 2 more quarts and wala I save a few bucks. It was 82.75 over night for a case of valvoline and 2 purolator filters PL14610 so two oil changes for right over 40 bucks each. If you would stop playing with camel spiders you might be able to do better research lol HOOOAH.
I did do research thats why I am only gonna put 100% synthetic in my car.









