ATTN: FP Red & Black Users - What You Need to Know About Oil
The answer to your question is in the original post.
OEM turbos, FP Green, etc., use a steel-on-brass bushing. FP Reds and Blacks use larger, heavier compressors and a steel-on-steel bushing. This difference is significant when it comes to oil.
Ball bearing turbos like Garrett aren't failing because they use a low friction system that isn't nearly as sensitive to oil content.
OEM turbos, FP Green, etc., use a steel-on-brass bushing. FP Reds and Blacks use larger, heavier compressors and a steel-on-steel bushing. This difference is significant when it comes to oil.
Ball bearing turbos like Garrett aren't failing because they use a low friction system that isn't nearly as sensitive to oil content.
This really baffles me... I just don't understand... Aftermarket Turbo's failing. Why do we not see OEM turbo failing?? You never hear about a stock turbo failing... If you did companys "mitsubishi" would never built turbo cars in the first place... They must be reliable... and all oem turbo's are... I jsut don't understand what makes them differant than FP, Turbonetics, Garrett...ect..ect.
The answer to your question is in the original post.
OEM turbos, FP Green, etc., use a steel-on-brass bushing. FP Reds and Blacks use larger, heavier compressors and a steel-on-steel bushing. This difference is significant when it comes to oil.
Ball bearing turbos like Garrett aren't failing because they use a low friction system that isn't nearly as sensitive to oil content.
OEM turbos, FP Green, etc., use a steel-on-brass bushing. FP Reds and Blacks use larger, heavier compressors and a steel-on-steel bushing. This difference is significant when it comes to oil.
Ball bearing turbos like Garrett aren't failing because they use a low friction system that isn't nearly as sensitive to oil content.
Ted, I think a titanium on titanium bushing would improve fp red and fp black reliabilty.
Last edited by bigturboevo80; Oct 18, 2010 at 03:16 AM.
This really baffles me... I just don't understand... Aftermarket Turbo's failing. Why do we not see OEM turbo failing?? You never hear about a stock turbo failing... If you did companys "mitsubishi" would never built turbo cars in the first place... They must be reliable... and all oem turbo's are... I jsut don't understand what makes them differant than FP, Turbonetics, Garrett...ect..ect.
so many guys had turbo failures that never say anything.
goes for stock and aftermarket.
just look at the hotside problem. you think everyone reports his turbo failure?
if you replace it every 2.5k-3k your fine with any synthetic oil and drive like a normal human being on the road..
Read and digest, you dont have to regurgitate half truths
Not true. I change my oil every 2k miles. I do not track my car or drag race it! My fp red turbo has only lasted 12k miles. I also have been using the lastest fp oil line kit since I put the turbo on my car. At every oil change, I remove the oil line filter and replace it.
Last edited by bigturboevo80; Oct 18, 2010 at 05:50 PM.
Ive have pushed hard the Fp green , Fp red , Fp Black all these turbos have never seen less than 26psi , i have used amsoil 10w40 full syntetic for all of them , all i can say is i have never had a problem and my motor is punished HARD !!
I have alot of respect for the amsoil products !!!!!!!!
I have alot of respect for the amsoil products !!!!!!!!

thaks for the support Gary
Andy
I'm not at all an expert here but shouldn't they have used the same weight oils for this test in order to do an even comparison??? The BP was 20w50 and the M1 was 10w30. How can you consider that to be a fair comparison on a 580hp motor? Furthermore, why would you run a 30 weight oil in a car putting out that much horsepower???
There isn't so much a correlation between the weight of the oil and hp. If the 30 weight oil gives film thickness suitable for the internal clearances, the engine will deliver more hp than it will with a heavier oil.
Then the next thing is, picking a viscosity to suit the thrust bearing in your turbo is the tail wagging the dog!! Is your turbo more important than your engine?
Your turbo bearings need to be designed so they can live with whatever oil is good for your engine. If your engine block is stock, your bearings could have a .0010 clearance, you don't know, the mfr specs are probably .0008 to .0018 or something like that. So unless your stock engine is very old and very loose you probably don't want to jump 2 viscosity grades (from 30 to 50). A built engine is a different story.
Hate to say it but I think the FP oil recommendation is more of a smoke screen for a mistake in thrust bearing design. It does bring up some interesting points about motor oil. But really with these hot-rodded turbos, I think the time has come to go either angular contact ball bearing for the thrust. Or for a plain bearing, go with a bi-metal design which uses a steel backing for the strength Robert was looking for, with a 10 thou thick layer of actual bearing material over the top of it, to get the good bearing properties.
Why would anyone use even lighter oils for 800hp F1 engines?
There isn't so much a correlation between the weight of the oil and hp. If the 30 weight oil gives film thickness suitable for the internal clearances, the engine will deliver more hp than it will with a heavier oil.
There isn't so much a correlation between the weight of the oil and hp. If the 30 weight oil gives film thickness suitable for the internal clearances, the engine will deliver more hp than it will with a heavier oil.
Good Point Here...
Please help confirm minimum acceptable values for Phos/ZDDP to save the turbos so it can be possible to choose the right viscosity/detergents/additives for our engines.
if you look back in this thread we have posted much data that covers that, also search under AMSOIL and you will find some recent oil threads that have tons of info to streer you ,,, you just need to filter through the nonsense.







