True, my thing is and I am only saying this for your benefit, even if you change often if there is no detergent or to little for your change intervals then when you change the oil you are leaving behind residue in the engine, and with a low detergent oil when you change it it may clean it up but you already wearing down the cleaning ability of the oil as soon as you change it so in order to keep up with the dirtying of the engine you'll have to change your oil more and more frequently.

And the 100% synthetic still provides far superior cold start protection. Which is when most engine wear/damage is done.

That's the way I see it in my mind so Ill pay a little more to know my engine is protected and pristine.

 

If I get a reply from FP and.they tell me to go back to synthetic I will. I don't think its got less detergent then the synthetic or not much or FP would not have suggested it imo. I think it helps with the high zink and phosphorus it has.

 

Racing oils have either none or significantly less then none racing oils.

 

Hah I need to do my research huh lol, I understand now from my understanding from amsoil if the oil is enriched with a high count of zink and phosphorus I can do about 2k and max 2.5k miles or 2 months in my case for a oil change but if I ran synthetic I could do 3k at max. Their dominator oil can go a bit longer but no one wants to push it.

 

Yeah that is pretty much the jist of it.

 

Well its good knowledge but if amsoil had better shipping prices as maybe free for 3-5 day it would be doable but its 92.xx to ship to my house and I got a case of VR1 for 58.70 and after taxes and me paying for overnight at 3.99 plus 2 oil filters and shipping it was 82.75 shipped for it all overnight. I get free 2nd day delivery so I could have saved 7.98. I an do a oil change every two months and still be under 2k miles. I just have to check and see if the price my friend has is for synthetic or non synthetic VR1.

 

I'm looking to go with synthetic vr1 in the black bottle. I'm just not sure if the counts are the same as the non synthetic.

 

You spent how much on your car, and now you're concerned about saving $15-20 per oil change? Isn't the longevity of your high performance power plant worth the added protection? Better question...what's more expensive.....awesome oil, or an engine rebuild sooner rather than later?

 

Thats exactly how I feel.

 

When I call FP today I will see, I thought I got the VR1 Synthetic but I was wrong and for now on a stock turbo/motor so not to worried as next month the turbo goes on. Its not so much the cost its the fact I am paying the same amount for the oil without the discount almost with shipping. I am going to find out if the VR1 my friend gets a discount on is the Synthetic if so I am going for it if not I am going for it because its going to be like 6 bucks a quart instead of 8-10. Also changeing my oil take 15 minutes and to do it every two months not a big deal if I save a few bucks. I dont have a built motor which requiers more protection nor does anything suggest that a synthetic stops a motor from breaking it just means oil need changeing a little more often, after today I will see and if I need the synthetic I will get it no biggie there. I will end it with this, I spent enough not to do something to damage the motor and thus I ask and my builder will be that person and the ones with the warrenty and as far as that read the FP oil list what I have is appoved unless they forgot to add the word"synthetic".

I understand your point as well and I will double check on stuff as we discussed and thanks for the info earlier as well.

 

This is incorrect.

 

Well like I said FP will be called to settle this its appoved from them so don't see a issue.

 

Their approval list is based solely on the ZDDP content of an oil. There are many other factors that come into play when your talking about over all engine protection.

I really don't feel like discussing this further as your being a little obtuse but the fact remains VR1 is a racing only oil, it has little to no detergents in it, even its "synthetic" is not a 100% synthetic it is a group III synthetic and will not provide as much protection as a 100% synthetic.

What that said its your motor and if it's not a worth a few bucks more a qt then your engine certainly isn't worth me explaining something over and over again.

 

I don't understand the group III 4-5-9 you help me understand earlier and I thank you for that but due to testing vr1 had more zink then amsoil but I am lost as why if I don't agree with someone and said im going to check with my builder im getting jumped.

 

Call FP today, tomorrow, and the next day if you like. What I am telling you is that synthetic oil is fundamentally superior to conventional oil, and that is inarguable. Whether you choose a synthetic that contains additives appropriate for an FP Red or FP Black is a completely different matter. It's important that you understand that.