What about Eneos oil?

I don't recall oil labels when you buy them in stores, but do they clarify what group they're in? I went to Amsoil Signature for a bit, but I really got tired of ordering all the time, so I went back to Mobil 1 and never had a problem. My motor is all original with 117k, and running perfectly clean. I'd go back to Amsoil i na hearbeat of I can fidn them locally though.

Don't know. To many other easily available choices out there.


AMSOIL is a Grp IV synthetic. Amsoil 10w-40 AMO is a good choice for you.

This is what I'm going with:

Glad this info came out, I thank Mike@AWD for steering me in the right direction on what oil to use. Only use 15w50 and 20w50 on my motor

Like Ted said a Group IV oil should ALWAYS be used once the levels of modifications go up. Especially with aftermarket turbo's. Your Mobile 1 fills are only Group III and are not fully synthetic (I believe 0w-40 Euro blend and their 5w-40 diesel blend may still be Group IV though unless it's changed). The levels of Zinc and Phosphorous is much higher and the level of shear protection and temperature threshold is far greater. Although Brad Penn seems to be recommended by some it is NOT a full synthetic oil. It is a petroleum hydrocracked basestock. It WILL have it's limitations.

Other item of concern is whether Group V ester stock is recommended. On the track yes and on the street no. They tend to have less detergents and more anti wear agents. They are meant for high abuse for only short periods of time. Therefore these are racing oils designed to be ran at the track and changed within a short period of time. This mainly is referring to Motul 300V series of oil. If anybody has seen extended UOA results you will notice it's results aren't that favorable. Does great at the track though.

By the sounds of it the Amsoil 10w-40 seems to be the ticket for most. Is has high levels of zinc and phosphorous, it's a Group IV and carries a high level of manufactures support. A similar oil would be the German Castrol 0w-30 which is also a Group IV oil (Don't correlate this with US grade castrol which is completely different). It also carries a viscosity at temperature near a 40wt but carries a very low poor point. Sometimes hard to get a hold of but can be bought at Autozone and when they run there $29.99 filter and Castrol oil specials you can pick up 1qt for less than $5 instead of the usual $7.99 a quart.

This will still harm my turbo or FP turbo?

Edit: Their high mileage still is classified as SL so it is probably the better M1 alternative.

Actually, the High Mileage versions have a better extreme pressure profile than the EP versions.

M1 high mileage oil will be sufficient for stock turbos and the HTA Green. As Ted stated, it is the steel-steel contact with bushing material in the Red/Black that are a cause for concern in terms of oil.

So, unless you have a Red/Black then M1 high mileage will be fine for your application.

So if I run a FP Black Turbo or even my OEM IX turbo I would be better off with Mobil 1 Synthetic High Mileage even though their PDF doesn't list it as a recommended oil.

The HM version is definitely better for our purposes than regular M1. However, if I had either the Red or Black, I'd just go to AMSOIL 10w-40 AMO and feel better about it.

I just bought 5 courts of this... My FP black just got back after blowing up with Mobile-1 10w-30.

But after reading this PDF, I'm less sure than ever.


Though, I think Ted B would agree with this oil. It's a non racing oil with high specs. Perfect for a 500hp+ daily driver subjected to sub freezing conditions?

EDIT:

Ahhhh, ok good lol.

^ I'm with ya, I'm hoping I didn't grenade my Black running Amsoil 10w30 ATM. Probably didn't because it's better than regular M1, but still I'm worried. Even though my Evo isn't my DD I still think it should get the additive packages a non-race oil carries.

When Andy gets back on it, maybe he can explain to us why the Amsoil 10w-40 AMO doesn't have friction modifiers! "Making it ideal for motorcycles" and other wet clutch applications.
I thought we had pretty much agreed earlier that friction modifiers were a good thing and not to use wet clutch or motorcycle oils because they don't have 'em. Otherwise, I think AMO is one I would use.

The other thing the Amsoil guy could probably dig up is the zinc and phos numbers for the european 5w-40 Amsoil, and does that one have friction modifiers?