Some current oil analysis info, ongoing testing.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 59
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From: miami
Alright sir put down your sword over there, no one intended for you to get your panties in a bunch. I did not ask you whether if you liked our business model or not, neither do I care. Not a good precedence to carry for being a newbie in this forum.
I stand corrected I should have read closer where it was mentioned 300V from Motul and yes I know enough about that oil to get in trouble, after all I need to know my competition
Motul Is one of the only oils that can stand up with AMSOIL it has been know in the industry, the edge we have on Motul is our price and our quality some times is matched or better.
As far as the price lets set the record clear this is the area Motul fails because.
- Motul is 30.00 for 2 liters which is 2.11 qts, and if you buy at a store I have seen it as high as 38.00, but let's assume is 30. So yes this will make it a 64 dollar a gallon.
- The dominator I give it to my clients for much lower that 10.50 and let's leave it at that
- Simple math 3 qts of dominator for less than 30 bucks
Oil properties oh man we can do this all day.
As far as the ZDDP goes, the difference between 1100 ish and 1400 is good amount when we talk in terms of PPM, each 10% matters in the case of ZDDP.
We were just talking about why would we not have an engine oil that is a group 5 versus a 4 (and oh by the way a 4 has Easter added to its base) chemist engineers technical managers all giggled and agreed that there is a point where you draw the line and you state your facts.
NO the group base stock has nothing to do with the viscosity index or viscocity improver of the oil. VI is what controls the ability to withstand temp swings,heat amd cold temps. In other words is just one of the many additives of the oil.
Once you choose the base stock group 4 then you start choosing your additives that will spec how well they hamdle the acids, Wear, foaming, detergents in the oil.
The only reason a group 5 is better in heat handling is for the reason I mention above the viscosity improver is a good quality one, but I can also have a better Viscocity improver on a Group 3 or 4. The issue is these expensive additives not everyone wants to use in their oils.
The same goes for lubricity, this is where the anti wear additives come in hand most commonly used are zinc and phos, ZDDP are what we know as soft and solid lubricants they cling onto parts to prevent metal to metal contact. This is where yes the more zinc and phos you have the better you are socially when racing.
I stand corrected I should have read closer where it was mentioned 300V from Motul and yes I know enough about that oil to get in trouble, after all I need to know my competition
Motul Is one of the only oils that can stand up with AMSOIL it has been know in the industry, the edge we have on Motul is our price and our quality some times is matched or better.
As far as the price lets set the record clear this is the area Motul fails because.
- Motul is 30.00 for 2 liters which is 2.11 qts, and if you buy at a store I have seen it as high as 38.00, but let's assume is 30. So yes this will make it a 64 dollar a gallon.
- The dominator I give it to my clients for much lower that 10.50 and let's leave it at that
- Simple math 3 qts of dominator for less than 30 bucks
Oil properties oh man we can do this all day.
As far as the ZDDP goes, the difference between 1100 ish and 1400 is good amount when we talk in terms of PPM, each 10% matters in the case of ZDDP.
We were just talking about why would we not have an engine oil that is a group 5 versus a 4 (and oh by the way a 4 has Easter added to its base) chemist engineers technical managers all giggled and agreed that there is a point where you draw the line and you state your facts.
NO the group base stock has nothing to do with the viscosity index or viscocity improver of the oil. VI is what controls the ability to withstand temp swings,heat amd cold temps. In other words is just one of the many additives of the oil.
Once you choose the base stock group 4 then you start choosing your additives that will spec how well they hamdle the acids, Wear, foaming, detergents in the oil.
The only reason a group 5 is better in heat handling is for the reason I mention above the viscosity improver is a good quality one, but I can also have a better Viscocity improver on a Group 3 or 4. The issue is these expensive additives not everyone wants to use in their oils.
The same goes for lubricity, this is where the anti wear additives come in hand most commonly used are zinc and phos, ZDDP are what we know as soft and solid lubricants they cling onto parts to prevent metal to metal contact. This is where yes the more zinc and phos you have the better you are socially when racing.
I don't need a hammer to kill a mosquito and i don't need Amsoil, Motul or Royal Purple to drive my car a very long time. Granted, my car is stock.
Mobil1, Castrol, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Rotella, Quaker State all worked fine in my WRX up until she was sold with 210k miles (running strong). My Evo8 used Royal Purple (yes, i fell under their spell) for some time until i discovered UOA's. I have since gone back to Pennzoil Platinum for my 2010 Ralliart. All my UOA's were excellent because i changed my oil religiously between 3750 and 5k miles, whether using Amsoil (which i have used) Royal Purple or any of the less expensive synthetics. Nothing against your product, just too expensive to justify after countless analysis with cheaper brands have come back great as well.
Last edited by wemay; Feb 11, 2013 at 08:37 PM.
You are correct. You do not NEED Amsoil,Motul, or Royal Purple to make your engine last a very long time, especially on a stock engine. For a stock dd car you will probably be fine with whatever autozone has on sale that week. In your position, then yes, Im sure you will have no issues with the oils you listed.
The thing is, there are better oils out there for those of use who want a little more out of our oils whether its an ocd evo owner or someone that plans to keep that engine revved up as in racing. Also keep in mind some folks are running fuels such as E85, not all oils are necessarily recommended for use with E85 so thats something else to consider.
Newbie
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: miami
You are correct. You do not NEED Amsoil,Motul, or Royal Purple to make your engine last a very long time, especially on a stock engine. For a stock dd car you will probably be fine with whatever autozone has on sale that week. In your position, then yes, Im sure you will have no issues with the oils you listed.
The thing is, there are better oils out there for those of use who want a little more out of our oils whether its an ocd evo owner or someone that plans to keep that engine revved up as in racing. Also i in mind some folks are running fuels such as E85, not all oils are necessarily recommended for use with E85 so thats something else to consider.
The thing is, there are better oils out there for those of use who want a little more out of our oils whether its an ocd evo owner or someone that plans to keep that engine revved up as in racing. Also i in mind some folks are running fuels such as E85, not all oils are necessarily recommended for use with E85 so thats something else to consider.
Oddly enough Mitsubishi America and JDM don't even require synthetics for the '09-present Ralliart and I believe the same goes for the '12 EvoX. Synthetic is recommended but not required. I would error on the side of the recommendation.
Last edited by wemay; Nov 28, 2012 at 09:43 AM.
Newbie
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
From: Nassau, Bahamas
Too many pages for me to sort through so hopefully this is an easy answered question.
#1 do you have the oil tested locally?
#2 where do you have it tested?
#3 where can I get mine tested in canada?
#1 do you have the oil tested locally?
#2 where do you have it tested?
#3 where can I get mine tested in canada?