New BW EFR Turbo Thread
EvoM Guru
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
that's close. have you considered carefully ovalizing by the ac compressor? for the amount needed to get >1/4 inch clearance, there would be negligible change in x-sec area.
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Mar 2006
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From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
the solution is to create a boost-activated circuit that is spliced into the factory wiring. so rather than cut the factory powe wire at the pump power plug, do a manual mil spec splice or a use a high quality, high amperage t-splice to join your power to the factory power wire. ok to cut off the factory ground if you want, but could splice that too. then add a high quality boost-activated pressure switch to your power circuit. spoolinup.com sells very nice pressure switches and may be able to help with sourcing a suitable splice. the ignition-activated relay can be eliminated from the circuit if you want to maximize the voltage that the pump sees (even very high quality cube relays steal about 0.2 V at high current.) set pressure switch to 8 psi.
if you do this and have no intention of running higher base fuel pressure, you can return the aftermarket fpr and save money. (the factory fpr actually regulates very well.)
also, go with a 30 amp fuse. the w450 can draw more than 20 amps at high load.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: Maryland, USA
Update on 7163 downpipe fitment with the Full-Race manifold. This is a 3" CLR mandrel, fitment is good but close lol
Untitled by Alex Whitacre, on Flickr
Untitled by Alex Whitacre, on Flickr
no fpr will save your fuel system from overrun with a full voltage hardwire of that pump, not even with a drilled siphon. it flows way too much for the stock return line. overrun will be massive. fuel may even leak from the spring clamp connections on the return line.
the solution is to create a boost-activated circuit that is spliced into the factory wiring. so rather than cut the factory powe wire at the pump power plug, do a manual mil spec splice or a use a high quality, high amperage t-splice to join your power to the factory power wire. ok to cut off the factory ground if you want, but could splice that too. then add a high quality boost-activated pressure switch to your power circuit. spoolinup.com sells very nice pressure switches and may be able to help with sourcing a suitable splice. the ignition-activated relay can be eliminated from the circuit if you want to maximize the voltage that the pump sees (even very high quality cube relays steal about 0.2 V at high current.) set pressure switch to 8 psi.
if you do this and have no intention of running higher base fuel pressure, you can return the aftermarket fpr and save money. (the factory fpr actually regulates very well.)
also, go with a 30 amp fuse. the w450 can draw more than 20 amps at high load.
the solution is to create a boost-activated circuit that is spliced into the factory wiring. so rather than cut the factory powe wire at the pump power plug, do a manual mil spec splice or a use a high quality, high amperage t-splice to join your power to the factory power wire. ok to cut off the factory ground if you want, but could splice that too. then add a high quality boost-activated pressure switch to your power circuit. spoolinup.com sells very nice pressure switches and may be able to help with sourcing a suitable splice. the ignition-activated relay can be eliminated from the circuit if you want to maximize the voltage that the pump sees (even very high quality cube relays steal about 0.2 V at high current.) set pressure switch to 8 psi.
if you do this and have no intention of running higher base fuel pressure, you can return the aftermarket fpr and save money. (the factory fpr actually regulates very well.)
also, go with a 30 amp fuse. the w450 can draw more than 20 amps at high load.
The fpr is already on the car. It was a left over part off my galant vr4 after I parted it out.
I'm a little lost as this is the same set up I have used in the past in ref to hard wiring the pump. In my vr4 I ran this same set up with a 255 then added a 044 inline and -8
Feed line. I used the stock return and never had a issue. Both were rewire. The vr4 had a smaller return like then the evo does. So am I missing something on the evo. I was planing on just running this set up for a short time then adding -6 feed and using the stock feel line as the new return.
Untitled by Alex Whitacre, on Flickr
Last edited by awhit17; Aug 3, 2016 at 07:42 AM.
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (50)
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 9,675
Likes: 132
From: Tri-Cities, WA // Portland, OR
The fpr is already on the car. It was a left over part off my galant vr4 after I parted it out.
I'm a little lost as this is the same set up I have used in the past in ref to hard wiring the pump. In my vr4 I ran this same set up with a 255 then added a 044 inline and -8
Feed line. I used the stock return and never had a issue. Both were rewire. The vr4 had a smaller return like then the evo does. So am I missing something on the evo. I was planing on just running this set up for a short time then adding -6 feed and using the stock feel line as the new return.
I'm a little lost as this is the same set up I have used in the past in ref to hard wiring the pump. In my vr4 I ran this same set up with a 255 then added a 044 inline and -8
Feed line. I used the stock return and never had a issue. Both were rewire. The vr4 had a smaller return like then the evo does. So am I missing something on the evo. I was planing on just running this set up for a short time then adding -6 feed and using the stock feel line as the new return.
Newbie
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 60
Likes: 1
From: Maryland, USA
Update on 7163 downpipe fitment with the Full-Race manifold. This is a 3" CLR mandrel, fitment is good but close lol
Untitled by Alex Whitacre, on Flickr
Untitled by Alex Whitacre, on Flickr
Update on 7163 downpipe fitment with the Full-Race manifold. This is a 3" CLR mandrel, fitment is good but close lol Untitled by Alex Whitacre, on Flickr
Just a FYI got the 450 installed base fuel pressure is the same with and with out the rewire. I tested it today. With factory wiring I'm seeing 43psi with the vacuum line disconnected. I then ran a line from the battery to the pump to test. With the pump getting 13.9v I still have a solid 43psi of base fuel pressure
Just a FYI got the 450 installed base fuel pressure is the same with and with out the rewire. I tested it today. With factory wiring I'm seeing 43psi with the vacuum line disconnected. I then ran a line from the battery to the pump to test. With the pump getting 13.9v I still have a solid 43psi of base fuel pressure
I don't know how that would be the case as its been proven over and over on dsm's that running a large high volume pump or pumps rewire with a after market fpr Provents over run.
Just a FYI got the 450 installed base fuel pressure is the same with and with out the rewire. I tested it today. With factory wiring I'm seeing 43psi with the vacuum line disconnected. I then ran a line from the battery to the pump to test. With the pump getting 13.9v I still have a solid 43psi of base fuel pressure
Just a FYI got the 450 installed base fuel pressure is the same with and with out the rewire. I tested it today. With factory wiring I'm seeing 43psi with the vacuum line disconnected. I then ran a line from the battery to the pump to test. With the pump getting 13.9v I still have a solid 43psi of base fuel pressure
Being a old school DSM guy one of the first things I did to my evo was a modded 255 and a fuel lab fpr. DSM would get over run with anything larger then a stock pump. So when you upgraded pump you upgraded FPR