New BW EFR Turbo Thread
Does it simply put out a pre-set constant duty cycle?
Or does it have a boost target map?
For example on my car (1990 Talon), which was also done by English Racing, we used the ECMtuning system which gives you a boost target map, like this: http://dsmlink.com/wiki/bcsoverview
With a system like this you could get a pretty flat boost curve if you want it, or shape it some other way if you want.
But we couldn't use that because we were doing a flex-fuel build, which cuts out the option for boost control by ecu.
So we wound up with an AEM Tru-Boost, which, all it can do is give you a couple of duty cycle pre-sets (plus a "crack pressure" setting). And that usually results in a non-flat boost curve. (Your boost curve I would consider to be pretty "flat").
Last edited by Talonboost; Oct 3, 2016 at 04:54 PM.
A perfectly flat boost curve from spoolup to redline usually means that the turbo could deliver more air (thus more pressure) at the lower RPMs, or that the turbo is being spun outside of its efficiency range at the upper RPMs. Usually the truth is somewhere in between, but fortunately it's not too difficult to install a shaft speed sensor on these EFR turbos to get some actual measurements either way.
As much as people like to chase the flat boost curve on these forums, it's usually not the optimal way to run a turbo.
As much as people like to chase the flat boost curve on these forums, it's usually not the optimal way to run a turbo.
is very good and correct post. people go on internet and think you need the flat boost, is stupid. I learnt that you need flat turbo speed, to get maximum from turbo. this means speed sensor and not flat boosts...
shops you mentioned run mostly 1/4, 1/2, and one mile races... no need for spool monsters there..
on the other hand, fastest time attack evo runs EFR..
havign said that, for race purposes the spool and transient response of EFR is not the most important, since high $$$ cars will run antilag anyhow.. and then you should probably go for garret tr30r turbo..
on the other hand, fastest time attack evo runs EFR..
havign said that, for race purposes the spool and transient response of EFR is not the most important, since high $$$ cars will run antilag anyhow.. and then you should probably go for garret tr30r turbo..
these shops you listed are all drag racers. they sell precision, fp, garrett,, of course they do not use these
You guys make very good points.
Generally Speaking
The fastest Time Attack / Circuit / Hillclimb setups tend to use EFR turbochargers. Sure the power might not be quite as much as Precision or Garrett, but response is much much better.
Drag races tend to use Precision or Garrett (inc variations) due to cost and outright power.
I guess it all depends on what you're trying to setup for car for.. IMO - if your trying to do everything well, just get the EFR.
Generally Speaking
The fastest Time Attack / Circuit / Hillclimb setups tend to use EFR turbochargers. Sure the power might not be quite as much as Precision or Garrett, but response is much much better.
Drag races tend to use Precision or Garrett (inc variations) due to cost and outright power.
I guess it all depends on what you're trying to setup for car for.. IMO - if your trying to do everything well, just get the EFR.
Bro, you are measureing wrong things. nobody cares what is trim for exhaust wheels. You measure compressor wheel outer diameter. 7163 = 71mm. this is smaller turbo than hks, garrett gt30R. and you making 550hp. Now you say you need more power. but you, bought the too small turbo
HKS is a 51lbs/min turbo
30R is a 52lbs/min turbo
The EFR 7163 is a 60lbs/min turbo.
Exducers size is not every thing.
honestly doubt most people with evo will even do time attack. Most people do drag race or will have fun in Mexico some times.
FP or Blouch offer great stock frame turbo that will spool well and make 500 whp like an efr.
HTA Green, HKS 7640, Blouch 2.0 and ect will all see 25 psi around 3500-3800 rpm and will make 500 whp.
FP or Blouch offer great stock frame turbo that will spool well and make 500 whp like an efr.
HTA Green, HKS 7640, Blouch 2.0 and ect will all see 25 psi around 3500-3800 rpm and will make 500 whp.
Did not go well. Got to packwood around 9:30am. Unloaded the car. Smelled e85 found a leak at the fuel rail. Thought I car it fixed but when I was siting in grid it started leaking again. So pulled the car out and found a crack in the fuel rail. Loaded car back on trailer and started drinking. Car is fixed now but no autocross tell September. R-comp for sure next year
honestly doubt most people with evo will even do time attack. Most people do drag race or will have fun in Mexico some times.
FP or Blouch offer great stock frame turbo that will spool well and make 500 whp like an efr.
HTA Green, HKS 7640, Blouch 2.0 and ect will all see 25 psi around 3500-3800 rpm and will make 500 whp.
FP or Blouch offer great stock frame turbo that will spool well and make 500 whp like an efr.
HTA Green, HKS 7640, Blouch 2.0 and ect will all see 25 psi around 3500-3800 rpm and will make 500 whp.
also, when you talk about whp, take care which dyno you talk about as there is a great difference between DJ and mustang..
hks 7460 on the tune that I can use on the road and track, on EU 98 oct fuel (93 US) with cams will do 400 whp DJ, give or take, and will do 25 psi at 3500 rpm in 3rd gear.. so no loading up on dyno.. It also has SUPERB transient response..
Great turbo yes, but lets not overhype the whp..
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Did not go well. Got to packwood around 9:30am. Unloaded the car. Smelled e85 found a leak at the fuel rail. Thought I car it fixed but when I was siting in grid it started leaking again. So pulled the car out and found a crack in the fuel rail. Loaded car back on trailer and started drinking. Car is fixed now but no autocross tell September. R-comp for sure next year
Skunk 2. The crack was most likely caused by me. When it first started leaking I thought it was just lose from when I installed the new injectors so I tightened it up.
When what was really wrong is the oring was bad. No worries found a new one for $100 online. So all fixed now.
When what was really wrong is the oring was bad. No worries found a new one for $100 online. So all fixed now.
HKS = 52mm 49 trim
30R = 57mm 56 trim
7163 = 57mm 64 trim







