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Manley Billet 100mm crank - Cracked

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Old Aug 11, 2018 | 07:49 PM
  #181  
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Some of the other things we did was everything is perfectly balanced and it has a fluidampr on it now.

So its got every helping tidbit it can get.
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Old Sep 19, 2018 | 08:19 PM
  #182  
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Holding smooth at 700/575.... and it has not exploded.. haha
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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 12:32 PM
  #183  
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Originally Posted by xRoguex
I guess I get to join the crowd with a cracked Manley Billet 100mm crank.

Cracked following the diagonal oiling hole towards the thinner material in the rod bearing area.

Now its just a question of do I try another Manley billet? Eagle Forged? K-1 Billet? I think I have ruled OEM cranks out as I will be over 700hp.

30,000 miles - and spent its whole life at 480-560hp.











Your crank failed because of The razor sharp edge. You need to debur this edge and the cranks won’t break period.
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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 09:11 PM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by 2winscroll
Your crank failed because of The razor sharp edge. You need to debur this edge and the cranks won’t break period.
Interesting theory. Do you have any evidence to support this claim?
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Old Oct 3, 2018 | 10:57 PM
  #185  
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The sharp edge certainly doesn't help. You want thing nicely rounded to prevent cracking.
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 05:18 AM
  #186  
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Originally Posted by xRoguex
Interesting theory. Do you have any evidence to support this claim?
Well any engine builder worth a pinch of $hit should knows this info. I suppose you could google it or something if your skeptical.
My own personal experiences I have seen this before with different engines and every single time there was a razor sharp edge where the crack emanated from the oil hole. Back in the day when crankshafts were ground at a local machine shop, the guy grinding the crank usually put a radius on the oil hole to prevent cracking and improve oil flow.
One particular engine was a small block crank in a basically stock pickup truck. That crankshaft should never have cracked at those low power levels.
Granted it’s always best to have that edge removed before the crank is heat treated but even if you remove the burr after heat treating it won’t crack.
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 07:13 AM
  #187  
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Similar to a chip in your windshield I suppose. If you don’t give it a starting point it won’t crack.
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 07:47 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by xRoguex
Eagle is made in china.

Is K-1?
Only one crank for 4g63 isn’t made in China.



Found this
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 07:49 AM
  #189  
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Or the same reason the rod journal has a nice fillet radius to the web of the crank, not a sharp corner.
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 07:52 AM
  #190  
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As far as I know Winberg is the only crank not made in China.
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 08:17 AM
  #191  
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I think you're correct. But China is no longer an automatic qualifier to say a part is junk. You can get quality parts from China, the company having the products made there just needs to ensure they are using the metals they specified, and that parts are being finish to design specs (heat treat, dimensions, etc).
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 08:50 AM
  #192  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
I think you're correct. But China is no longer an automatic qualifier to say a part is junk. You can get quality parts from China, the company having the products made there just needs to ensure they are using the metals they specified, and that parts are being finish to design specs (heat treat, dimensions, etc).
Sean. Good to hear your positive comments on parts made overseas (China) (i.e. Fortune Auto).

Yeah, China can turn out some high quality items. I own a few expensive Chinese made pocket knifes that are the highest quality knifes i own
Sorry to the OP for being off topic but here it is (full Ti handles & belt clip / ceramic bearing pivot & blade steel spec S35VN)


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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 09:19 AM
  #193  
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I totally agree with you on Chinese quality. It can be very good. I don’t think the quality control checks are as good as some other areas of the world.
I believe the Manley cranks are extremely strong, they just are lacking as far as attention to detail is concerned. It has always been this way even with a lot of American made products in the past. Special things need to get done at final assembly to make them reliable.
There are a lot of things professional engine builders do to the parts they assemble, tricks of the trade, that make there engines “worth the extra coin $$$”
It has a lot to do with “failure analysis” and coming up with reliable fixes.
Seems like a lot of folks have the attitude, well these cranks break so they must be junk. We will try brand X instead. Years ago this wasn’t an option because much of the time the stock piece was all that was available. M2C

Nice knife BTW MP!
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Old Oct 4, 2018 | 09:59 AM
  #194  
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Originally Posted by MinusPrevious
Sean. Good to hear your positive comments on parts made overseas (China) (i.e. Fortune Auto).
I've never said FA wasn't quality. I've simply said that for the price difference certain other coilovers are insanely better.
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Old Oct 6, 2018 | 11:12 AM
  #195  
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Having a sharp edge on the oiling hole creates a stress riser. Stress risers greatly increase the likelihood of a cracking forming. Once a crack forms, even at a microscopic level, it will continue to grow until it reaches the other side. In this case the other side would be the other side of the journal.
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