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I thought anti surge by definition was a leak in the compressor section between splitters and full blades. Ie a small area where a leak could occur and delay the compressor efficiency some. And theres a mod to make it this effect more pronounced?
I thought anti surge by definition was a leak in the compressor section between splitters and full blades. Ie a small area where a leak could occur and delay the compressor efficiency some. And theres a mod to make it this effect more pronounced?
The t51r mod is mostly done for sound. There Shouldn’t be a difference in performance between the factory anti surge and the t51r style antisurge, however some people that have had it done to their turbos have reported slightly better performance after the t51r mod.
The t51r mod is mostly done for sound. There Shouldn’t be a difference in performance between the factory anti surge and the t51r style antisurge, however some people that have had it done to their turbos have reported slightly better performance after the t51r mod.
I had to look up the T51R mod. It seems there is a lot of room for variability depending on who is doing the modification which can result in a wide range of performance difference. There is actually a bit of fine tuning of the ported shroud geometry and how it changes the compressor map. Port location, width, and angle are the three primary variables to play with. They change the surge line, peak efficiency, and choke line. So if you need more surge margin, can tune for that. If you need more choke flow, can tune for that.
Seems a little risky to have some random person modifying this geometry as you don't know what you'll end up with performance-wise.
I had to look up the T51R mod. It seems there is a lot of room for variability depending on who is doing the modification which can result in a wide range of performance difference. There is actually a bit of fine tuning of the ported shroud geometry and how it changes the compressor map. Port location, width, and angle are the three primary variables to play with. They change the surge line, peak efficiency, and choke line. So if you need more surge margin, can tune for that. If you need more choke flow, can tune for that.
Seems a little risky to have some random person modifying this geometry as you don't know what you'll end up with performance-wise.
Yeah there is a lot of things going on with a surge port in the compressor cover. FP's FAP cover for example not only helps with moving the surge line further left, but also increases peak flow by moving the choke line further right.
I had to look up the T51R mod. It seems there is a lot of room for variability depending on who is doing the modification which can result in a wide range of performance difference. There is actually a bit of fine tuning of the ported shroud geometry and how it changes the compressor map. Port location, width, and angle are the three primary variables to play with. They change the surge line, peak efficiency, and choke line. So if you need more surge margin, can tune for that. If you need more choke flow, can tune for that.
Seems a little risky to have some random person modifying this geometry as you don't know what you'll end up with performance-wise.
Yeah, definitely not something that should b done at home on a lathe. Seems OCD has most experience with it. And from what I read when they do a t51r mod on a turbo they do it so that the compressor map stays the same.
Thought you might be interested in this. Link G4+ PNP with flex fuel. This testing is done on E60! WSRD Mivec 10.5:1 2.1L(4G64 block) oringed on a BW S362SXE, T4 divided, .91 A/R.
^
Looks good and any other details or pics? BTW, my S366 SXE with the 68mm turbine wheel arrived last week. In the middle of parting out the 82 928S and I will then focus on the EVO.
Thought you might be interested in this. Link G4+ PNP with flex fuel. This testing is done on E60! WSRD Mivec 10.5:1 2.1L(4G64 block) oringed on a BW S362SXE, T4 divided, .91 A/R.
Looks good. I see that he revs it to only 7.700, probably from the turbo limitations. A 2.1 4g64 can easily rev to 10k, so from my view the turbo is a mitsmatch with his build. With this turbo I would personally go with a 2.3 or a 2.4lr if I wanted to rev it below 8k. Just my 0.2c
Looks good. I see that he revs it to only 7.700, probably from the turbo limitations. A 2.1 4g64 can easily rev to 10k, so from my view the turbo is a mitsmatch with his build. With this turbo I would personally go with a 2.3 or a 2.4lr if I wanted to rev it below 8k. Just my 0.2c
The pulls were done in fourth and the tuner didn’t want to rev it out. I am utilizing a 8800 or so rpm limit for drag purposes since on stock gearing. I was surprised looking at the pulls
I agree that a 2.4LR or other setup would have been a better execution (as I want to daily drive, torque was the reason to not do a stroker). The 2.1L has been my dream build and I wanted to have a good starting point to build on. I have future plans 😉
Trust me I didn’t think the 2.1l would have performed like this. Morrison Fab has an article detailing the testing
turbo choices for future are 6266/6466 or other turbos in this area to allow me to utilize the 2.1L as truly intended.
Love the execution, data, and documentation in all of your builds!!
Thanks, but I don't know about the execution part considering my damn manifold cracked. I'll hopefully start a new build thread next weekend because the setup is slightly changing.
Purchased a used small runner manifold from MPFab, which is what he ran on his old setup with the S362.
Purchased a new S366 SXE (with 68mm turbine wheel) using my current 1.01a/r T4 TS
Going to go non recirculating on the wastegate dumps
I will probably start that swap next week when the final pieces of stainless arrive so I can minimize the downtime.
My buddy machined the new downpipe vband flange on the lathe and reduced the thickness by ~0.300 and recessed the hole another ~0.100". Should give me another ~0.400" clearance between the downpipe and AC compressor for the new setup!
I am going to throw the updates in this thread since I will be moving back to the S362 (6268) vs the S366 (6668). There is nothing wrong with the S366 and it makes a lot power, but because I am initially running the 0.91 a/r housing i want to see how well this thing can spool on my 2.15L. I also opted to run the 3" downpipe that came with the kit as opposed to my current 3.5" downpipe just for the heck of it. I had to first weld 2 nuts to the hangers so they could mount with the factory M8 bolts, which I used a pair of exhaust manifold nuts I had laying around and they worked perfectly.
The next task was to add an O2 bung for my wideband as well as add a flex section since this pipe was 100% rigid.
This is a mockup with my 3.5" catback exhaust with the 3" downpipe.
I had to remove the Magnaflow muffler and I added in a 3.5" bullet muffler I had laying around. You can see the 3" to 3.5" transition right off the 2-bolt flange and I added another piece of flex section for giggles. I will tack it all together on the car tomorrow and then take it down for final welding.
As long as their are no surprises I should have this running again tomorrow.
I got all the exhaust tacked in place and welded yesterday so that is all complete.
I have everything bolted in and ready to go, but have a few minor details to sort out.
One of the runners is very close to the oil feed off the head so I need to purchase a banjo adapter to clear that runner. Not a big deal, but my current fitting is straight and will not work.
I have to install the Innovative Motorsports LC-2 wideband controller since my PLX is taking a dump.
What I like about this kit....
The pipe transitions off the flange are nice because they don't abruptly change size when using 1.25" tubes (aka smaller runner).
Can use with factory front cross member and motor mount
Morrison Fabrications is not a huge fan of how abrupt the dowpipe was to transition to clear the AC Compressor, but I personally do not think it is that bad. Also, there is plenty of room to transition to 3.5" as soon as you make that initial 90deg bend if you choose.
Runners are spread out so it is easy to access all of the bolts to tighten to the head
I was able to assemble the whole setup including wastegates and dump tubes before mounting the radiator. Basically, you can bolt it all together and put the radiator in last.
Quality, of course
Challenges with the kit...
Not much clearance for the oil supply off the head so if you plan to use a 90deg fitting, the clearance is about 3/8". I will likely go with the banjo bolt option, which will provide much greater clearance.
For the stock upper radiator hose, you have about 1/4" of clearance from the runner to the hose. You'll need to make a heat shield or heat wrap for the tube.
The compressor outlet is not just a simple 90deg so I ended up running a shortened 30deg transition hose off the compressor discharge immediately coupled to a 90deg transition to clear the radiator and front cross member. It sits about 1" too low right now, but I'm sure I can make a custom one piece aluminum pipe using a similar bend strategy that will perfectly. I also had to cut off a random tab on my radiator that was not being used because it would not clear otherwise.
I'll hopefully start a new build thread next weekend because the setup is slightly changing.
