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BTW, the vibration with the torque solutions side mounts is so bad I have a hard time tolerating the car at idle. I am hopeful they will wear in somewhat so it gets better.
I like the welded fitting on the oil cooler line. Simplifies routing a bit and you don't have to worry about double swivels moving all over the place. Also, thanks for posting the .91 vs 1.00 comparison!
I like the welded fitting on the oil cooler line. Simplifies routing a bit and you don't have to worry about double swivels moving all over the place. Also, thanks for posting the .91 vs 1.00 comparison!
Thanks and I got 2 stainless -8an weld on bungs for $10 shipped on amazon vs having to buy the metric to an adapter and then the bulky 90deg fitting. I'm probably going to hit the dyno soon as well, but I am very happy with how the car feels with this setup. The lag vs the S366 SXE (6668) is night and day and with the open gates the S362 is pulling super hard so I suspect torque is above 500@wheels. I never dynoed the S362 with open gates when I ran the 1.00a/r so it will be interesting to see how much the open gates helped hp and torque.
S366(6668) 1.00a/r vs S362(6268) 0.91a/r both with open gates.....
I like the welded fitting on the oil cooler line. Simplifies routing a bit and you don't have to worry about double swivels moving all over the place. Also, thanks for posting the .91 vs 1.00 comparison!
I wanted to play around with the ignition timing to see how it would affect spool and time to sweep rpm. I created two maps with one having higher ignition timing prior to full spool and the other was the old map I had been using.
You can see in the graph below that running higher ignition timing values resulted in spool being delayed by ~200rpm. One other thing I need to do is revise my MIVEC map to ramp out timing sooner by about 200-300rpm before full boost.
From the standpoint of how timing affects the time to sweep rpm we can see that between 2300rpm and 3800rpm it took the same amount of time to sweep, but looking at the graph above I am making +5psi more at 3800rpm.
Finally, if we look at spool as function of time we see running lower timing gets me on to boost faster.
This is the more aggressive timing map that I created to see the effects of timing during spool.
This is the less aggressive timing map that produces better results. This is not the same map I ran for the S366 as those used higher ignition timing values under boost so I will play around with that tomorrow to see if this smaller turbine housing and downpipe are happy running more timing under boost.
I wanted to do one last compare running 25deg MIVEC starting at 2500rpm in 3rd vs 30deg MIVEC starting at 2500rpm in 3rd. I was thinking that running lower timing initially might help create more boost upon the initial spool, but all of the data I collected said that ramping in full timing generates the best spool.
I then did some logging under cruise to see how MIVEC timing affected IPW using the same stretch of road and in the same direction. I compared 20deg vs 12deg and on average I saw a lower IPW using 12deg vs 20deg, which would indicate an improvement in fuel efficiency when cruising. The resolution of the IPW is not great and it seems to show a binary response of either 1.535ms or 1.28ms with driving conditions being 4th gear and 2700rpm.
This is how the MIVEC map looks as of now, but it is not finished. I need to optimize for 1st and 2nd gear based on the additional lag because how the map is setup it will run real low timing values when spooling in these gears. I will then dial in spool in 4th gear because it will be holding high timing for too long.
Well, that did not take long to optimize for 1st and 2nd gear. The car really feels alive with the S362 and the open gates vs the S366. That extra 500rpm gain in spool makes the car feel like the hit is much harder and it will now spin the tires in 2nd gear once it hits boost, which is never used to do that unless it was really cold out. I tried to take a video, but the damn car torque steers in 1st and 2nd so hard to hold the camera in the same hand as I use to steer. I'll see if I can get an extra hand later today to take a video of a 1-3 gear romp.
BTW, the vibration with the torque solutions side mounts is so bad I have a hard time tolerating the car at idle. I am hopeful they will wear in somewhat so it gets better.
It looks like you're running a stock crank pulley. I've noticed in the engines I've built that idle vibration is reduced with an ATI crank pulley/damper compared to built engine I've dealt with that running the stock pulley or a Fluidampr.
It looks like you're running a stock crank pulley. I've noticed in the engines I've built that idle vibration is reduced with an ATI crank pulley/damper compared to built engine I've dealt with that running the stock pulley or a Fluidampr.
Thanks for the advice and this may be something I consider down the road as it has gotten somewhat better after driving it for a few days. I did not have this severe vibration at idle with the stock side mounts so that definitely contributed and keep in mind I run the Megan upgraded rear mount. Interesting to note, I did not have this vibration issue on the 2L and it ran the solid aluminum Unorthodox pulley its entire life (~65K miles).
I need to give the EVO a break and just drive it around so I don't lose my mind. I still have to swap out 5th gear and the final drive in the EVO that I purchased earlier this year. Not to mention the GTR has new GTX3071r turbos sitting on the shelf along with some transmission upgrade parts that need to be installed.
Finally got the new gauges setup and running. Aeroforce definitely needs to work on the integration aspect of their gauges, specifically the Analogic, but once it is done it is really nice.
The gauge on the far left is the Interceptor, which hooks directly to the OBD2 port so if you are not running any additional analogue inputs all you have to do is connect to the OBD2 port and you are done. It accepts 2 additional 0-5v inputs that can be program per a first order equation so your sensor needs to be linear. It is also able to read and clear DTC's as well as cycle on the radiator fans. You can also set warnings based on multiple settings so really a lot of function for a single gauge. It displays the following....
1. IAT –Intake Air Temperature (Accurate)
2. COOLANT –engine coolant temperature (Accurate)
3. RPM –engine speed (Accurate)
4. MAP –Manifold Air Pressure or boost (Not Accurate, so need to see how to make it work)
5. MAF lb/min –Mass Air Flow in lbs per minute (It's spitting out a value, but i'm on SD)
6. MPH –Miles Per Hour (Accurate)
7. THROTTLE PCT –percent of throttle opening (Accurate)
8. IGN. ADV –Ignition Advance (Accurate)
9. STFT B1S1 –Short Term Fuel Trim bank 1 sensor 1 (Accurate)
10. STFT B2S1 –Short Term Fuel Trim bank 2 sensor 1
11. LTFT B1S1 -Long Term Fuel Trim bank 1 sensor 1 (Accurate)
12. LTFT B2S1 -Long Term Fuel Trim bank 2 sensor 1
13. ENGINE LOAD –PCM calculated percent of engine load (Showing a number, but haven't investigate to see if it correlates to anything)
14. FUEL STATUS –Open or Closed loop operation (Works)
15. MPG –calculated fuel economy (Works and shows MPG real time)
16. HP –calculated horsepower (gunned it real quick in 2nd and saw it say 486hp so need to explore more)
17. Battery Volts –Battery Voltage (Accurate)
18. Crank Pos. (Accurate)
19. VVT: Variable Valve Timing (Accurate)
18. INJ. PW –Injector Pulse Width in msec. (Accurate)
19. Analog input 1
20. Analog input 2
* Bi-directional Controls: High and Low Radiator fan manual control, Condensor fan manual control. (Verified it works)
The center gauge is the ProSport JDM 40psi boost gauge and I really like this gauge because it has the digital display and has a warning alarm for overboost
The gauge on the right is the Analogic, but allows up to four (4) 0-5V linear inputs as well as two (2) EGT inputs. Like the Interceptor, you can data log and have it show different screens on a timer and I run Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure, and PCV pressure at this time, but currently no EGT's.
Last edited by 240Z TwinTurbo; Oct 22, 2020 at 04:29 PM.
Thanks for the advice and this may be something I consider down the road as it has gotten somewhat better after driving it for a few days. I did not have this severe vibration at idle with the stock side mounts so that definitely contributed and keep in mind I run the Megan upgraded rear mount. Interesting to note, I did not have this vibration issue on the 2L and it ran the solid aluminum Unorthodox pulley its entire life (~65K miles).
I need to give the EVO a break and just drive it around so I don't lose my mind. I still have to swap out 5th gear and the final drive in the EVO that I purchased earlier this year. Not to mention the GTR has new GTX3071r turbos sitting on the shelf along with some transmission upgrade parts that need to be installed.
IT NEVER ENDS!
Put a stock rear roll mount back in it. You don't need that mount to poly if the front roll mount and both side mounts are poly. I swear like 80-90% of NVH from the engine comes from that rear roll mount when its been "upgraded" to poly.
Thanks for sharing. It's refreshing to see some graphs and info for 1st and 2nd gear tuning for a change.
Originally Posted by 240Z TwinTurbo
Finally got the new gauges setup and running. Aeroforce definitely needs to work on the integration aspect of their gauges, specifically the Analogic, but once it is done it is really nice.
With the large improvements in spool from 25º to 30º Mivec angle, have you looked at doing the Mivec gear mod and then run 36-38º Mivec angle?
Also - with the Mivec angle change, did you change the ignition timing at all?
From all your testing, it looks like high Mivec angle and low ignition timing makes boost the fastest.
But is the car acceleration actually slower with the low ignition timing?
The issue is more specific to the Analogic gauge, but also applies to the Interceptor when adding analog inputs. For both gauges in order to run analog inputs you have to wire in your own +5V source to power all sensors. The gauges come with a cable that consists of 24g wires that you have to terminate yourself to each of the sensors. There are no connectors so you have to tie in all of you sensors to this single cable, which is separate from the +5V power source.
Originally Posted by RSMike
With the large improvements in spool from 25º to 30º Mivec angle, have you looked at doing the Mivec gear mod and then run 36-38º Mivec angle?
Also - with the Mivec angle change, did you change the ignition timing at all?
My gear was already modified, which is how I can run more than 28deg of cam timing. I tried to run 33, but the car was showing knock so I was unsure if it was just knock or if there is a mechanic limitation due to valve to piston clearance so I backed it down 2deg. If I can confirm there is no interference I will tune it out with more than the current 31deg. When I changed MIVEC (25deg vs 31deg) I did not touch timing, but when you make less boost for a given RPM then it will pull the ignition timing values from a different portion of the map. In this case the values were slightly higher, which is why you don't see the timing to be exactly the same when I compared 25deg vs 31deg.
Originally Posted by RSMike
From all your testing, it looks like high Mivec angle and low ignition timing makes boost the fastest.
But is the car acceleration actually slower with the low ignition timing?
This data was provided, which showed no difference in time to sweep RPM up to 3800rpm, but at 3800rpm and with lower timing I was making 5+psi more boost. Simply put, both high timing and low timing got me to 3800rpm in the same amount of time, but the lower timing was up +5psi. The data also showed that because I was up +5psi at 3800rpm the time to sweep 3800rpm and up was faster because the engine was making more boost.