I want to stick the car on the dyno, but I have been chasing my tail with the damn LC-2 Wideband Controller. I was running the PLX for 9 years with no issues before it died and replaced it with the LC-2. I setup the Analog 1 (wideband) output to match the PLX, which was 10afr@0V to 20afr@5V so I could use the same AFR conversion formula in EVOSCAN (0.0392157*x + 10). When I log full boost it shows AFR ~11.5:1 so everything seemed just perfect.

I have the simulated narrowband output from the LC-2 going to the ECU signal pin for the front O2, which is how I was running it for years with the PLX with no issues. I was noticing the wideband readings on my gauge tended to be on the rich side so I decided to graph the front O2 signal vs the wideband signal. Prior to this I verified the Analog 2 function in the LC-2 was correct for a stock narrowband sensor, 14AFR@1.1V and 15AFR@0V. To my surprise the function was no where near what it should be!





I then decided to just use the default values within the LC-2 with the AFR range being between 7.35 to 22.1 AFR with the EVOScan formula of "0.05859*x + 7.35." In theory this should have reproduced the same results in the log, but it shifted the AFR curve to the left by ~0.6AFR. I then decided to switch back the settings to the PLX range of 10-20 AFR, but changed the Analog 2 (narrowband) output function to see what impact it had on the curve and obviously switched back to the EVOScan formula for that AFR range (0.0392157*x + 10). I setup the Analog 2 to shift the AFR curve 1 full point to the right by using 15AFR@1.1V and 16AFR@0V. Instead of shifting the AFR to the right by 1 AFR, it shifted the curve to the right by 1/2 AFR.






In the LC-2 software you can command a voltage output while the LC-2 is doing the warmup calibration, so I set it to output 0.44V. However, as the log below shows the voltage output is 0.390V.





Innovate Motorsports has been very nice, but they have been extremely slow to provide help and after 4 days their response is to make sure I have it grounded properly. I have it grounded exactly how it was with the PLX, but I ran an additional 14G wire to the engine block at the exact point I have it grounded to the negative battery terminal, which made no difference for the issue I am seeing. Perhaps I am overlooking something, but as of now I am wishing I stuck with PLX since I never had an issue with using their controller.

 

Wideband controllers can draw up to 2-3A during heater warmup. If the controller is grounded through several feet of 14GA wire or a poor connection to the chassis, that could explain the 50mV difference.

 

I was guessing as to the wire size, but it is significantly larger than the ground wire that came with the LC-2. I just went and measured the wire diameter (metal portion) at ~0.088" diameter so it is equivalent to 11G wire that I ran ~5ft. Based on the charts this is definitely overkill for 3amps.

 

5 ft not including the return at worst case of 3a continuous would cause about a 40mV drop with 11awg wire.

 

The LC-2 is still grounded to the same chassis ground as used with the PLX so all I did was run an extra ground from that location to the engine block at a point that is jumped over to the battery negative. Understand that a voltage drop should have no effect since the LC-2 compensates for the incoming voltage that varies between 13.5V and 14.3V based on the alternator output. The analog outputs are not reacting as they should so it is definitely something with the LC-2. As of today the car will randomly peg dead lean when driving so I need to log to verify the narrowband is putting out 1.1V when this happens.

I pulled up a log of when I was running the PLX M300 and graphed O2 Sensor Voltage vs AFR, which clearly resembles a standard narrowband output as it should.

 

I figured it out and now it works correctly. I had the 0-5V analog output hooked to the stock ECU as many do, but I also had it outputting to the AeroForce Interceptor gauge as well so I could read AFR. I removed the signal line from the Interceptor gauge and now it works as it should. The only difference in the graph below is I simply removed the input from the Interceptor gauge. I still have the gauge that came with the LC-2 so I may see if that also has the same issue.

 

Wow. It's strange that the gauge would have such a low input impedance that it would impact the signal like that.

If you have a multimeter, I'd be curious to get an ohm reading between the gauge sensor input and ground.

Lower impedance inputs are better for noise rejection, but only if the source (wideband in this case) has a significantly lower output impedance to drive it. I wonder if the AeroForce team misjudged how low they could go? Or maybe the PL-2 output driver has a strangely high output impedance?

 

They responded saying the gauge has an input impedance of "1 meg," buy have not provided anything else. I have been having issues with both gauges, but mainly the Interceptor. Putting this issue aside, the car threw a P0355 code today because my starter did not engage as I held the key in the start position. I tried to pull up the code with the gauge and every time I hit "Get DTC" the gauge would just reset. I then tried to clear the code, which the gauge said was cleared, but the Check Engine Light stayed on. I had to use EVOScan to check and clear the code. I also can no longer have it display "02 Millivolts" despite being able to previously. Every time I try to select for it to show that parameter, the gauge just resets. Also, the Analogic gauge started up one day and randomly displayed all of the text backwards. I am starting to regret spending $400 on these gauges.

 

Since the Interceptor gauge is not compatible with the LC-2 I had to use the LC-2 gauge, which meant I had to relocate the boost gauge. I prefer to have both of those gauges available if needed so I had to choose a new location for the boost gauge. I'm not a big fan in general of visible gauge pods, but I did not have much choice. With that said, I kind of like have the boost gauge in a position I don't have to look around when under boost. Now that I have this resolved I will try to schedule a dyno session this week to see how it compares to the other 2 dyno sessions. The car hits hard and when temps drop in the 50's you have to watch out for the hit in 2nd gear because it loses some traction and feels like it has a slight torque steer.

 

Car has been on the lift for 1 week because after ~6 weeks of use the Bosch LSU 4.9 wideband supposedly no longer works according to the code being spit out by the LC-2. After research I find the Innovate wideband controllers have a history of killing sensors every few months, which is definitely not a normal situation. Innovate has been sluggish to respond and claims I was supposed to use their 1" bung to keep the sensor out of the exhaust, but I told them this was contrary to what Bosch recommended for the LSU 4.9.
https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/con...or_LSU_4.9.pdf

It has been more than a week and they still won't tell me how they will address this issue so I guess I'm supposed to just buy an new $80 sensor every 2 months like many others have reported. I ran the PLX M300 for 10 years and the Bosch LSU 4.2 lasted 8 years before I replaced it for no other reason than as a refresh. I will likely now just purchase the PLX wideband controller because I want to see if this sensor is indeed dead or if it is something with the LC-2 and the stupid calibration it does on startup.

While the car was on the lift I noticed the pan was leaking at the block, but I couldn't tell exactly from where. The good thing is that it is not leaking at any of the welds so just at the block from what I can tell. I used Nissan Bond (Three bond) and this damn pan is on there like glue. I've suspended 70lbs of weight on the pan with all the screws removed for about 5 days and it hasn't budged. I sprayed it with GooGone specific to silicone removal and that hasn't helped. I don't want to pry on the pan because I don't want to bend the flange, but while it is on the car I just don't have good access.

Before I pull the engine from the car just to remove the pan, perhaps someone has an idea how to get this damn thing off!

 

I switched from an older Innovate controller (before the 4.9 sensors) to a PLX controller. Haven't had a single problem with the PLX. The gauge is a little quirky but it works.

 

I'm going to order it Monday so thank you for the feedback. I thoroughly enjoy driving the EVO, but I thoroughly hate working on it these days.

 

Its a cast iron block so I believe a thin blade like a razor blade or paint scraper would be able to cut through the silicone and not scratch up the surface. I slowly insert one blade into the gasket. Then a couple inches down I insert another and keep repeating until the gap starts opening up. Once the seal is compromised the pan should release.

 

ive been trying that in spots that are accessible, but razors are snapping off or extremely difficult to get in the gap.

 

Maybe use a thin stainless steel wire to cut through it? Like the ones they use in the movies to... You get me.

Or 80lbs test fishing line?