a gauge isnt the end of the world as it uses a tiny amount of vacuum/boost to move it. a bov on the other hand, uses a lot and when it actuates the diaphram, it moves a lot of volume and the fpr sees less boost than what the engine is actually making.

 

cool thanks for the info! makes sense, i wonder if that would become more evident at higher boost levels.

 

Would the bigger risk be that additional connections create additional opportunities for a vacuum leak event that could actually damage your engine?

 

THANK you! I'll get on this, ASAP, and report back.

 

Thanks very much. I will see if my installer has one handy, if not, I'll PM you.

 

I dont see it that way, i like all the connections in one spot, easier to keep an eye on it instead of checking different spots. The stock fittings arent even barbed, are they?

 

I was just thinking if a vacuum leak to the FPR can actually damage your engine then one should do everything he can to minimize the possibility, don't touch it with anything at all and just go the vacuum block route for all your other stuff. I don't know about the stock fittings. I'm a total noob.

 

BTW, just got off phone with tuner and he said it's not a problem to use the FPR line for the Boost Gauge as long as you zip tie all the lines.

weather forcast is clear and 49 degrees. weekend project is ON!

 

I did this job.

Ran the prosport boost gauge to the FPR hose (removed the filter that came with the kit).

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9969131@N03/6787304688/
Removed the T from the line to the DV.
Added a T and an F to the line to the left of it and ran those lines to the two EGR inlets.

Went for a drive. Boost gauge is fixed, sort of, now it's boosting to 28 PSI. Tuner said it's set to 25 so I think maybe i need to put the damn filter back in the line.

Car was much smoother, flutter was nearly gone, bucking too.

Next step, configure the DV, which I'll take to the DV configuration thread.

 

What kinda power gains did you see changing from the stock one?

 

I have absolutely no clue.

I had all of these mods put in at the same time except the filter:

Tanabe Medalion Touring
Mil.Spec 100 Cell HFC
BR DP
BR O2
ETS FMIC (UICP/LICP)
Map Rev2 EM
Map Rev3 IM
FB 70mm TB
BBK Full
Synapse DV
Forge MBC
FIC 1100 Injectors
Stock Intake with Amsoil Filter
93octane pump
25 psi

406 AWHP on Atlantic's Dynomite, the car is insanely fast now. Can't imagine what it will be like with S2 cams.

 

One interesting item... I put the stupid little filter back inline on the prosport electric boost gauge vacuum line tonight and went for a drive. Low and behold, NOW it spikes to 26 psi and settles at 25. I called prosport today to ask if it was necessary and they said it wouldn't make any difference, that I'd probably have to buy another sending unit. apparently they don't even know the proper setup for their own boost gauge but at least WE do. The filter IS essential.

 

Just a note for guys trying to figure out how to manage all the vacuum lines. I have been searching and reading to figure out how to solve my setup, which is complicated by having to smog as well. I just received the Rev3 and the 70mm TB. Then of course had to start reading about what the heck EGR was since the TB doesn't have those lines.

I found this post by fostytou very interesting. If I wasn't doing smog I would just delete. Here is the link in case you guys didn't come across this.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-canister.html

 

anything over a 65mm throttle body and your just wasting your time/money. Its not gonna make any real noticable difference

 

For most power levels a 65mm is just fine.
There is a certain CFM where switching to 70mm would be beneficial.
Why not do it right the first time and only have to buy 1 part... which just so happens to be at the same price point and cleanly deletes the EGR/Coolant ports.