It's not reaching or is the coupler not big enough to go around the 70mm TB? You have to get a transition coupler, I think it's 2.5" to 3".

 

I actually managed to stretch the ETS coupler over the 70MM TB. I just trimed the edge off with a razor knife and forced it on.

Heres the issue:



The pipes hit eachother. If I get them to where they are not touching, there is no way I can couple them together.

If I cut the lower pipe down about 1/2-3/4" I can make it work. Problem is that I will have to find someone to crimp the flare back into the pipe.

Thanks!

 

Not sure I have the correct orientation from that photo, but if its similar to my situation I undid the bracket bolt on the lower pipe off of the out side of the IC. That bracket attachment raised up my nesei pipe and egress issues with the hard cluth line.

What I don't get or see is how the TB made this difference? I can also note that all the same parts came off and back on my car (motor pulled) and nothing went back exactly with the same fitment as before. It fit great, but just slightly different.

 

Yeah that is a bad cell phone picture. It is from underneath.
What you see at the top of the photo is the clutch slave cylinder.

The 70MM TB has shifted the UICP over to the right so much that the stock route ETS UICP would not fit with the OEM battery.
I decided to go speed density so I now went with a ETS short route. I suspect the new TB is screwing the angles up...?

 

I just went from the stock to 70mm TB and didn't notice that much of a different. I don't know your lower pipe though. Mine was difficult until I removed the stock bracket point. Its just held in place by mounting to the IC and the Upper Pipe. This allowed just enough adjustment to fit past everything.

I always thought of my setup as the short route, because the battery needs to be a mini, but I still have the uturn pipe as a lower. Not sure that is how yours is. The only thing I can think of based on what I am understanding is to lower the lower pipe. It only needs a hair twist at the IC, and that will magnify into 1/2 inch at the coupling. But, you need to make sure the bracket is not in use, or at least lose. Sorry if what I am saying doesn't make any sense based on your lower pipe.

 

I'm having the issue with mine as well, I can't get it tuned with it reading as it is.

My throttle wide open reads 95.6%...
now i know for fact slanting the TPS left to right changes the percentage reading,

For example: Slanting it all the way LEFT (with the throttle physically all the way open) it read 100%

Slanting it more to where it LOOKS like how it should bolt up, then it reads 93.XX%-95.XX%.

My question is this, should i just slant it all the way to the LEFT then adjust the Idle Screw to where it should be?

My Setup:

JMF "Drag" Intake Manifold
Full Blown 70mm Throttle Body
....Ets UICP (typically used on the Magnus V5 for lower set intake manifolds fitment)

 

I know I am late to the tps party, but the range of the full blown tb only allows around a 17-18% closed tps reading to achieve the 100% wot reading needed.

I have learned to live with it, although this could be something that could easily be revised by full blown as its probably the only complaint I have about the tb altogether.

 

What if you adjust the base idle screw back a little?

 

Too bad you have to port the hell out of that mani to make it work, price is good but I rather buy tried and tested. Video ain't worth anything about the power it makes, it lacks before and after dynosheets.

 

Then I have a hard time getting it to idle. Evo 8 on s3's
When I mentioned above revising the tb. What I was referring to is moving the mounting bosses a slight amount, because if everyone is having to turn the idle screw in a certain amount then no one will be able to acheive the 13% tps reading.. Make sense? I know I'm rambling on

 

Tonight I'm going to try backing down the idle screw and crank up the iscv steps. That would get rid of the tps issue assuming I can get it to idle

 

Make sure to disconnect your battery after cranking up iscv. At least with my car it seems to have no effect until I disconnect the battery.

 

I got one of these t/b also. Im not installing it until the end of the month though

 

Well I got mine all installed and am fighting the idle. My tps is reading 20 at idle and 100 at full throttle. Maybe the 20% is messing my idle up. My idle steps is at 33 which I thought should be 20-25. If I activate the base idle through evoscan the car will die. So to fix this normally I would just open up the base screw and lower steps to get to my desired idle. I do this and the steps stay at 33 and the idle is at 1300. So to get my car to idle below 1200 I have to back the base screw off. It has to be that 20% at idle but not sure. Any opinions or ideas?

 

So this might be too obvious, but did you do a boost leak test to confirm you are not sucking in air under vacuum. The TPS reading 20 could just be off, because anything over will read 100. So its likely really operating and 20 and 108, for example, and just needs adjusting. I wasted a lot of time on all kinds of stuff until I finally did a proper boost leak and the TB was leaking.