Maybe you can loctite the bolts in there?

 

I think I will follow your advice. It may be a temp fix but it may get me by for another couple of weeks. I'm porting my intake and will match this tb to that at that time.

 

I would put some silicon on the threads. Let it dry and that should do it.

 

I'm thinking I might unbolt that bolt and putting silicone on IM threads and using the medium loctite on the bolt itself.

Were you thinking to put pump some silicone on the back side of the IM bolt hole and let that dry? That might be an easy band aid.

 

Don't Use Silicone!!!!!! it will be a real PITA if your need to crack it loose then your never gonna get a good seal again. Use thread locker/sealant from napa or something that will help do the trick. Either that teflon piping tape.

 

Don't use silicone lol I know I said it before but I'm saying it again so you realize that its not a good idea. Plenty of other alternatives to go with. Think about if you gotta tear the engine apart again for another repair or mod, the silicone will work great for the first time seal but after that you gotta clean it all out from all the threads inside the housing and on the actual bolt itslef which is a PITA. Teflon tape and thread locker are your best bets of what to go with. I'd personally reccomend teflon tape just so it fills the gaps but will also hold the pressure. Easy to take off and reapply when you redo it. . Just my .02 cents

 

Yea use Teflon tape. Didn't think of using that. Lot less messier than silicon

 

Thanks I'll try the teflon tape tonight.

 

10isace- I would doubt that effective for long or at significant boost. The threads should not be the point of the seal, so that means your actual seal is failing and finding its way out the thread. having just sanded down my intake it's easy to see how and why.

My other thread is updated with some vids, and I'll make more of my repair work to clarify and help anyone. Essentially what is happening is that the gasket is not being evenly pressed closed because the surfaces are not completely flat. Mine were off almost a 1/16th which is actually huge. Yours seems to have a high spot just in front of that thread. The steel should be before that thread. The thread is there for the bolt , not to seel air out.

the only real long term fix I believe is to plane the surfaces. MAP will do it for you, but I believe the hard part is removing the IM, not really the sanding. Doing it in the car looked too difficult, but could be possible with just the right size block of glass or granite. You could use really thick MDF too as a sanding block. Color pencil marks all around and then sand a bit to identify the LOW spots. That will be the spots where the pencil is not removed.

 

Thanks man! I think you're right. I'm going to give the teflon tape a go tonight anyhow. I plan on porting and matching a IM to my FB TB in a week or so. The Mani I have on now is stock so it seems unlikely it's the IM that's not flat. It might be the adapter that came with the TB. From your vid it doesn't seem like the TB either. So most likely it's the adapter. If the teflon doesn't work I have a stock TB ready to go back on.

I'll check for straightness on the ported IM and TB when the time comes. I'm going to have to machine the new IM because of the extra material I'll have on the flange.

GL with your fix! Also I'm glad to see MAP step up and offer help as per the other 70mm thread.

 

OK, I forgot you had the stock IM. The scenario of the behavior is likely the same, but the cause in something much easier to fix. I doubt its the TB, but its easy to assess. Take it out and put it on a piece of glass or granite with mild sandpaper between. mark it up with pencil and rub it in circles. if all of the pencil marks come off, then its flat, or the seal is flat. See if you can do the same with the adapter. The leak is getting passed where it should seal, to the bolt hole, and out your threads. For a short while the tape is the easiest and fastest. Plus you can undo that just as easy.

 

Well, it looks like I'm F***ED! I fixed the boost leak that I was having with the teflon tape . Now it's time to check for other leaks. Found a leak at the UICP hose that connects to the TB. No biggie. Tighten it up a little. Still leaking. So I undo the tbolt and reposition the hose to sit better and then I clamp it down. Still leaking. WTF! I tighten it some more still leaking. Few more turns on the tbolt and all of a sudden there was no resistence on the tbolt. Cracked the TB Please I don't know if I'm thinking clearly, but here are some videos of it. What can I do to fix this?
I'm a little sensitive right now, so hold off on the flaming for at least 24 hours. Thanks!

 

If its a piece that you can reconnect with the hose off use JB Weld. Thats how we fix holes in intercoolers, broken supports and everything else. If not seperate from the tubing you could still use JB but you'll never get it off again.

 

Man, I watched those vids last night, and it hurt me just to see it. I did go out and loosen all of the fittings on my setup!!!!!
Those Tclamps are great, but they are very very strong, so you have to be really careful. You could have induced the leak initially by having it clamped too hard on that seam while you were trying to chase down the other leak that you eventually found at the threads. From there you weakened it, and were already past the point of getting a good seal and on your way to defeating the metal. I don't have any good ideas. I guess you could try JB Weld, that stuff is crazy, but every experiment I have tried was kind of a mess. Practice on something else first!

I would contact FP, or wherever you bought and just tell them what happened. At the worst they should be able to send you a rebuilt one or rebuild this for you by changing out the housing that broke. Good Luck!

 

. That sucks dude. Maybe the company can help you out. Explain what happened and maybe they will hook you up. Good luck.