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Just got, buying, reviewing, thinking about a new Evo [Ultra Hyper Mega MERGE]
Originally posted by Radio
with a 7k trade in which I still owe 11k on (damn hondas) and an MSRP of 30,700 they figured it to be approx $750 per month.
BUT, it already has 1,400+ miles from test driving so you gotta figure that it wasnt broken in correctly.
Im 24 with good credit but they think my credit history is too short and want me to get a co-signer for a better interest rate and BTW he told me he didnt know what the interest rate was for that quote...
with a 7k trade in which I still owe 11k on (damn hondas) and an MSRP of 30,700 they figured it to be approx $750 per month.
BUT, it already has 1,400+ miles from test driving so you gotta figure that it wasnt broken in correctly.
Im 24 with good credit but they think my credit history is too short and want me to get a co-signer for a better interest rate and BTW he told me he didnt know what the interest rate was for that quote...
If you do not like the resale value on Hondas good luck with the new car.
Originally posted by Kayaalp
Mitsu advertizes 0% financing on all cars BUT the Evo. They generally charge about 6% for the Evo, though you may be able to get it a bit lower (not much, though). I doubt the '04 Evos will be offered at 0%.
Emre
Mitsu advertizes 0% financing on all cars BUT the Evo. They generally charge about 6% for the Evo, though you may be able to get it a bit lower (not much, though). I doubt the '04 Evos will be offered at 0%.
Emre
Season’s Greetings from Glendale Mitsubishi!!
We are pleased to offer you the following great Year-End deals on all
2003 Mitsubishi vehicles through the end of December. (Excluding EVO)
0% APR for 72 months on all new 2003 vehicles
OR
Up to $4,000 Manufacturer rebate
Plus
To show you that they exclude the Evo out ...
Buying a car and comparing financing
The most important thing you young'ns have to learn about
buying something on time is that the total cost can be computed
either from the price and the interest rate, or from the montly
payment and the number of payments. The monthly payment
by itself means nothing. It can be made smaller by stretching
out your loan to 5 or 6 years, instead of 4 years, but that
doesn't make the car cheaper.
The true cost of your car is a combination of the sale price and
the interest rate. You want both to be as low as possible.
But which one is more important? You have to understand
terms like "net present value" to really figure that out, but
here's one thing you can do. Get every dealer to quote you
the same term loan (say 5 years). The lowest monthly payment
then is the lowest cost of ownership. One dealer may have a
lower price, but a higher interest rate, while at another dealer
it may be the reverse.
But the most important advice is do not try to compare
a four-year loan from one dealer with a 5-year loan from another
unless you have a math background or a loan calculator (and
know how to use it).
As an example of what you will pay, based on various interest
rates, here's a little table that assumes a purchase price of
$30,000 (no trade-in) and a 5 year payback schedule:
Sale price: $30,000, Term: 5 years
Interest Monthly
Rate Payment
-------- -----------
4% 552.49
5 566.13
6 579.98
7 594.03
8 608.29
9 622.75
10 637.41
11 652.27
12 667.33
13 682.59
14 698.04
15 713.69
16 729.54
17 745.57
18 761.80
I chose $30,000 above because that's very close to what most
people pay for this car. If your price is different, perhaps because
you are trading in a used car, make them tell you the price you
are paying after trade-in, and then if thats a fraction of $30,000,
simply multiply that fraction by the monthly payments you see
in the table, and that's the price you pay for the corresponding
interest rate. (So, for example, if you got a $10,000 trade-in
and thus only paid $20,000 for the Evo, multiply all the above
monthly payments by 2/3.)
buying something on time is that the total cost can be computed
either from the price and the interest rate, or from the montly
payment and the number of payments. The monthly payment
by itself means nothing. It can be made smaller by stretching
out your loan to 5 or 6 years, instead of 4 years, but that
doesn't make the car cheaper.
The true cost of your car is a combination of the sale price and
the interest rate. You want both to be as low as possible.
But which one is more important? You have to understand
terms like "net present value" to really figure that out, but
here's one thing you can do. Get every dealer to quote you
the same term loan (say 5 years). The lowest monthly payment
then is the lowest cost of ownership. One dealer may have a
lower price, but a higher interest rate, while at another dealer
it may be the reverse.
But the most important advice is do not try to compare
a four-year loan from one dealer with a 5-year loan from another
unless you have a math background or a loan calculator (and
know how to use it).
As an example of what you will pay, based on various interest
rates, here's a little table that assumes a purchase price of
$30,000 (no trade-in) and a 5 year payback schedule:
Sale price: $30,000, Term: 5 years
Interest Monthly
Rate Payment
-------- -----------
4% 552.49
5 566.13
6 579.98
7 594.03
8 608.29
9 622.75
10 637.41
11 652.27
12 667.33
13 682.59
14 698.04
15 713.69
16 729.54
17 745.57
18 761.80
I chose $30,000 above because that's very close to what most
people pay for this car. If your price is different, perhaps because
you are trading in a used car, make them tell you the price you
are paying after trade-in, and then if thats a fraction of $30,000,
simply multiply that fraction by the monthly payments you see
in the table, and that's the price you pay for the corresponding
interest rate. (So, for example, if you got a $10,000 trade-in
and thus only paid $20,000 for the Evo, multiply all the above
monthly payments by 2/3.)
All I can say is be patient, if the 03's sell out get an 04. I am in the same situation as you, went to the dealer sat down and they tried to sell me the car based on the monthly payment and would never tell me the price of the car. BTW this dealership had a $9K markup. I told them I wouldnt pay over Invoice and they said no problem, but kept coming back with payments of over $500 w/$9K down
and that was with a good interest rate, so I figure they were trying to sell it to me with the markup.
And DO NOT but a test drive vehicle, im sure everyone here will tell you they are abused. The one I took for a test drive ran out of gas a few blocks from the dealership and the salesman kept trying to start it and make it back...that poor car, or should I say poor guy that buys it.
I am looking at picking mine up this saturday, but they want to pass on the finding fees to me, they only have a Silver and I want Yellow should I tell them im not paying the fee?
and that was with a good interest rate, so I figure they were trying to sell it to me with the markup.And DO NOT but a test drive vehicle, im sure everyone here will tell you they are abused. The one I took for a test drive ran out of gas a few blocks from the dealership and the salesman kept trying to start it and make it back...that poor car, or should I say poor guy that buys it.
I am looking at picking mine up this saturday, but they want to pass on the finding fees to me, they only have a Silver and I want Yellow should I tell them im not paying the fee?
Originally posted by GokuSSj4
This is straight from a Mitsu dealer
Season’s Greetings from Glendale Mitsubishi!!
We are pleased to offer you the following great Year-End deals on all
2003 Mitsubishi vehicles through the end of December. (Excluding EVO)
0% APR for 72 months on all new 2003 vehicles
OR
Up to $4,000 Manufacturer rebate
Plus
To show you that they exclude the Evo out ...
This is straight from a Mitsu dealer
Season’s Greetings from Glendale Mitsubishi!!
We are pleased to offer you the following great Year-End deals on all
2003 Mitsubishi vehicles through the end of December. (Excluding EVO)
0% APR for 72 months on all new 2003 vehicles
OR
Up to $4,000 Manufacturer rebate
Plus
To show you that they exclude the Evo out ...
Every dealership is trying to make numbers not only for the month but for the year. These next two weeks are the best time all year to buy a car, IMHO, because dealers will be going further than they would be willing to at any other time.
just got my evo!!!
I just got my evo this morning. I've been back and fourth to the dealership for 2 weeks and i finally got it. Its a white one, c/f spoiler, no sunroof for 26,995. I havent driven it hard yet, but even staying under 4k rpms, its still fast! I drive it with a stupid grin on my face
I just put a viper alarm on it, and next week I am getting evo 7 tailights and a ss clutch line. again, I am really happy with the car.
I just put a viper alarm on it, and next week I am getting evo 7 tailights and a ss clutch line. again, I am really happy with the car.
For the over $300 you will pay for those 7 tails you could get 20 more HP with an ECU flash. Definately a better deal IMO.
Take care,
mojo


Joel you crack me up sometimes..
ad excludes the Evo in the fine print at the bottom of the screen.