P2W I can't remember (its in my build sheet somewhere).

Standard Wiseco (Stock compression). My previous 2.4LR was high compression and oil consumption was fairly normal.

 

Looks like good news and bad news. Machine shop messed up. Did not spec P2W clearance properly and so rings never fully seated.

They are standing behind their work and making it right......and THIS is what separates good shops from bad. They could've easily made an excuse up but they are standing up, taking the L and making it right.

I'm extremely grateful to Matt and the crew at SOM. I can't stress how much this has made me believe there are good shops and good people in this industry still. This could've easily gotten stupid expensive.

Extremely grateful.

Oh yeah...the bad. Clutch looks toasted. Entertaining just rebuilding it or breaking down and finally buying another triple. With it being christmas and all and I re-arranged my finances so I'm not playing catch up I think the cheaper option is just rebuild the QM and then save for a triple.

SO it looks like this will end happy.....thankfully.

 

Glad its figured out, that why its always important to double check all measurements before assembly.

 

Can't speak to what happened when the car was going to together originally.

 

Nice man! Glad to hear she's getting fixed & Spec-Ops is taking care of you!

 

did your machine shop use a torque plate with the studs you're using on the car now when bore & honing? If not, that doesn't help.

Its also true, a stroker piston needs assistance and has an additional oil rail support with a dimple facing down (wiseco pistons). If that dimple moves outside of its fixed position it wont help matters, and i have torn down engines where it moved out from above the wristpin where its locked in place on some pistons.

Also yes, the wristpin interferes with the lower oil rail support, since it moves the pin 6mm higher up.

It is also good practice to gap rings based on specific cyl and not mix and match to make sure ring gap is 100% accurate per each cyl per that specific ring set when gapping.

 

Yes tourqe plate was used with the exact same studs that are currently on the engine. The ring gap orientation is correct and the rail support dimples are where they need to be. Every ring was gapped to a specific cylinder as well and everything was double checked. Engine has about 5k miles on it and runs strong. P2W clearance was checked as well and every cylinder was checked for taper with a bore gauge.

 

The only thing I notice from time to time there is a slight bit of oil on the compressor side of the turbo when I take the intake off but charge pipes are dry and I have a vented catch can.

 

Cat or no cat you can still see blue smoke if you are burning oil. Only 2 ways I know of oil vanishing is consumption and leaks.

Consumption usually valve seals or rings. You could also have a head gasket failure. I highly doubt you are filling your coolant system with oil and you don't notice it. Still check your coolant. Pull a plug out and check it. Matter fact do all 4. Burning oil will be indicated by reading spark plugs. Report back.

 

I tried to tell you that these were piston rings, same issue was in my car, just that Buschur didn't care to measure it at all just slapped it in together and hand it off to the customer and then dicked me around, that it's the turbo, bad tune or oil leak somewhere. Good thing your builder is making good on their earlier work, in my case it didn't happen.

 

Yup you and a few others said the same thing.

Yeah SOM is def a stand up shop. I was afraid that it was going to be the cost of rebuilding the motor again.

 

That all sounds good to me.

Hmm. If you haven't, id go ahead and drill a 5/8" hole in the valve cover where the old outlet is, it will help relieve crankcase pressure. Its possible you're pressurizing the oil pan and pushing oil back up the return line into the turbo.

Or you don't have enough diameter on the return line restricting return line oil flow back into the oil pan.

 

just came across this thread, apparently just at the right time. i'm amazed it took a year for spec-ops to figure it out, but good to hear that they are handling their error appropriately. hopefully, you'll get your evo back a lot faster than it took to diagnose.

 

LOL. Victim of their success. Shop has blown up in the last 6 months. I'm easy going and I have my wife's STi to drive so its like i was hounding them plus on was on the road a lot for work during that time so the car was the last thing on my mind. Its hard to fix something that you have to 300-450 miles on to see if its fixed.

It presented as a lot of other things as well so it did take a lot of trail and error before I even got to the point where I dropped the car off and said I didnt want it back until it was fixed properly.

 

I was thinking it might be vent related also, I just have 2 push in -6 fitings of the valve cover for stock size holes I might drill them out or do balance shaft vent or both.