View Poll Results: EVO X Transmission Problem POLL
Notchy, grinding, or difficult to engage gears (all the time)



689
40.08%
Notchy, grinding, or difficult to engage gears (only when car is cold)



646
37.58%
Difficult to engage Reverse gear (cold or warm)



146
8.49%
No problems at all



238
13.85%
Voters: 1719. You may not vote on this poll
The official Evo X notchy/grinding transmission thread
yes, I have had a whole tranny already, at 1143 approximate miles, now i have slightly over 3000 and again the issues are reappearing, more and more each week, they didn't have a choice but to replace my tranny, when it went in the 4th time, at 1143 miles, it was like every gear was shifting without the clutch pressed even tho it was. Earlier on I had the jackass at the service center ask me if I put the clutch to the floor (while i was driving) i stomped it and said as far as it goes or would you like me to put it thru the floor? omg... lol i just wish they would do somethin soon....
I want everyone to take a moment and look at the survey above, out of 166 people who have taken the survey, only 49 have no issues, that is 70% with a tranny issue of some sort. Thats pathetic. I wonder how many evos have been sold in all?
mines getting better and better as the miles rack up, and I know how to shift to get around it. Just baby it when the tranny is cold and then quickly shift it once it's warmed up and it drops in like butta. Anywhere in between and it's a little crunchy, although as the miles rack up even that is getting better. C'mon mitsu come out with a fluid that smoothes this out.
Here is some information on MFQ's Evo that switched out to GM Syncromesh.....the point is that it works.
http://www.socalevo.net/index.php?op...een#msg7359749
http://www.socalevo.net/index.php?op...een#msg7359749
I am weary of using synchromesh because it basically trades gear protection for synchro smoothness. I'd be very curious to see what running the evo 9 fluid in the X would do. Since the internal design of the X's tranny is very similar to the 9 with the exception of tripple cone synchros and no dedicated reverse gear, I would imagine that mitsu would be investigating this first and foremost to see this as a possible solution to the problem.
I am thinking that with the new tranny having a better synchro design than the previous model that mitsu was over-confident and probably thought that the new synchro design would be able to cope with a fluid that is designed for maximum gear protection and not as much for proper synchro functionality.
I am willing to bet that mitsu didn't use any different materials for the internals of the tranny in the X and that the fluid that was used in the 9 might be a perfect fix. I am curious to see if my dealership would be willing to give this a try seeing as how it is still a mitsu fluid as opposed to some 3rd party brand. I'll let you guys know...
I am thinking that with the new tranny having a better synchro design than the previous model that mitsu was over-confident and probably thought that the new synchro design would be able to cope with a fluid that is designed for maximum gear protection and not as much for proper synchro functionality.
I am willing to bet that mitsu didn't use any different materials for the internals of the tranny in the X and that the fluid that was used in the 9 might be a perfect fix. I am curious to see if my dealership would be willing to give this a try seeing as how it is still a mitsu fluid as opposed to some 3rd party brand. I'll let you guys know...
Last edited by STi2EvoX; May 18, 2008 at 10:35 PM.
I have seen the factory fluid on the X while it was being drained and it was quite thin...thinner than the GM Syncromesh. So I am not sure that the factory fluid would provide more protection than the Synchromesh when the factory fluid is thinner. But we shall see.
I feel that having a tranny with GM Synchromesh and no grinding when shifting is safer for the tranny than have the factory fluid in the tranny and having it grind when shifting.
Please, we need more input.
I feel that having a tranny with GM Synchromesh and no grinding when shifting is safer for the tranny than have the factory fluid in the tranny and having it grind when shifting.
Please, we need more input.
I am weary of using synchromesh because it basically trades gear protection for synchro smoothness. I'd be very curious to see what running the evo 9 fluid in the X would do. Since the internal design of the X's tranny is very similar to the 9 with the exception of tripple cone synchros and no dedicated reverse gear, I would imagine that mitsu would be investigating this first and foremost to see this as a possible solution to the problem.
I am thinking that with the new tranny having a better synchro design than the previous model that mitsu was over-confident and probably thought that the new synchro design would be able to cope with a fluid that is designed for maximum gear protection and not as much for proper synchro functionality.
I am willing to bet that mitsu didn't use any different materials for the internals of the tranny in the X and that the fluid that was used in the 9 might be a perfect fix. I am curious to see if my dealership would be willing to give this a try seeing as how it is still a mitsu fluid as opposed to some 3rd party brand. I'll let you guys know...
I am thinking that with the new tranny having a better synchro design than the previous model that mitsu was over-confident and probably thought that the new synchro design would be able to cope with a fluid that is designed for maximum gear protection and not as much for proper synchro functionality.
I am willing to bet that mitsu didn't use any different materials for the internals of the tranny in the X and that the fluid that was used in the 9 might be a perfect fix. I am curious to see if my dealership would be willing to give this a try seeing as how it is still a mitsu fluid as opposed to some 3rd party brand. I'll let you guys know...
Its not a fluid issue. Its a gearbox issue. BG Synchroshift makes VIIIs and IXs shift like total butter.
I think what we are doing- adapting our shifting technique- is the best thing we can do to protect the gearbox.
Not to argue or anything, but how do you KNOW that its gearbox issue rather than a fluid issue? If it is a gearbox issue, the tranny would grind and crunch regardless of the fluid in the gearbox. But this obviously isn't the case.
And I have tried different shifting techniques and all of them resulted in the same result, grinding when going into second, especially when it was cold.
I had mentioned earlier that when I had my E39 BMW M5, the tranny exhibited many of the same tranny issues as the X, as it grinded going into second gear when the Redline fluid was cold. It didn't matter how gingerly I shifted into second gear, I would still get a grind. Sometimes, I would be locked out until the the fluid warmed up. This was resolved when I put in OEM fluid in place of the Redline fluid.
I am still leanig towards the fact that it's a fluid issue, especially considering how that tuning company in the link says that the crunching is totally gone, and not gone because of the adapted shifting technique that you and I have learned, but because of the fluid being the fix. It doesn't really bother me anymore that much because I know how to get around it, but I hate the idea that every time a tech drives my car that he is causing damage because he doesn't know the "technique."
It shouldn't require a "technique," and I want it fixed. I have hope, and I guess that this is just part of the joys of owning a first year car, which is probably why I am going to trade mine in on a 2009 when they come out. Plus, there will most likely be improvements to the ecu tuning and other nice performance improvements like chassis bracing upgrades and so on and so forth.
Friend, why in the heck would the X gearbox be more like the STI's box? That just does not make any sense at all; they are nowhere near similar in build style or execution. One is a RWD based direct rod transmission, and the other is a FWD based cable transmission. The X tranny is directly based off the IX transmission, for goodness sake. Tons of racecars use BG Synchroshift with outstanding results.
My best theory right now is that the non-dedicated reverse gear has changed things a bit in the box and it is just going to be notchy.
As you have said, we have adapted our driving and are not barely even noticing it. Andrew has never noticed it; the way he shifts is not effected by it. It has never done it once with him at the controls.
There is no mystery oil that is going to cure this problem. Its in the design.
My best theory right now is that the non-dedicated reverse gear has changed things a bit in the box and it is just going to be notchy.
As you have said, we have adapted our driving and are not barely even noticing it. Andrew has never noticed it; the way he shifts is not effected by it. It has never done it once with him at the controls.
There is no mystery oil that is going to cure this problem. Its in the design.
I can see your point, but I tried 4 different kinds of fluid in my STi only to have to go back to the stock fluid because they all caused this same crunchy/grinding sensation. Just because one fluid works for the 9 doesn't mean that it will work for the X. The X is probably more like the STi in the respect this it is picky as hell when it comes to fluid, and just because one fluid doesn't work doesn't mean that it's automatically a gearbox issue and not a fluid issue.
I am still leanig towards the fact that it's a fluid issue, especially considering how that tuning company in the link says that the crunching is totally gone, and not gone because of the adapted shifting technique that you and I have learned, but because of the fluid being the fix. It doesn't really bother me anymore that much because I know how to get around it, but I hate the idea that every time a tech drives my car that he is causing damage because he doesn't know the "technique."
It shouldn't require a "technique," and I want it fixed. I have hope, and I guess that this is just part of the joys of owning a first year car, which is probably why I am going to trade mine in on a 2009 when they come out. Plus, there will most likely be improvements to the ecu tuning and other nice performance improvements like chassis bracing upgrades and so on and so forth.
I am still leanig towards the fact that it's a fluid issue, especially considering how that tuning company in the link says that the crunching is totally gone, and not gone because of the adapted shifting technique that you and I have learned, but because of the fluid being the fix. It doesn't really bother me anymore that much because I know how to get around it, but I hate the idea that every time a tech drives my car that he is causing damage because he doesn't know the "technique."
It shouldn't require a "technique," and I want it fixed. I have hope, and I guess that this is just part of the joys of owning a first year car, which is probably why I am going to trade mine in on a 2009 when they come out. Plus, there will most likely be improvements to the ecu tuning and other nice performance improvements like chassis bracing upgrades and so on and so forth.
Not to argue or anything, but how do you KNOW that its gearbox issue rather than a fluid issue? If it is a gearbox issue, the tranny would grind and crunch regardless of the fluid in the gearbox. But this obviously isn't the case.
And I have tried different shifting techniques and all of them resulted in the same result, grinding when going into second, especially when it was cold.
I had mentioned earlier that when I had my E39 BMW M5, the tranny exhibited many of the same tranny issues as the X, as it grinded going into second gear when the Redline fluid was cold. It didn't matter how gingerly I shifted into second gear, I would still get a grind. Sometimes, I would be locked out until the the fluid warmed up. This was resolved when I put in OEM fluid in place of the Redline fluid.
And I have tried different shifting techniques and all of them resulted in the same result, grinding when going into second, especially when it was cold.
I had mentioned earlier that when I had my E39 BMW M5, the tranny exhibited many of the same tranny issues as the X, as it grinded going into second gear when the Redline fluid was cold. It didn't matter how gingerly I shifted into second gear, I would still get a grind. Sometimes, I would be locked out until the the fluid warmed up. This was resolved when I put in OEM fluid in place of the Redline fluid.
Because I've changed to BG Synchroshift.
It feels better at redline and high speed shifts, but you can still make it notch into second and third, but only on upshifts.
Redline fluid in an Evo gearbox is supposed to be a bad thing, but I'm sure you know this.
If ~70% of the transmissions with OEM fluid have this behavior and mine still does with BG, its a design issue. We just have to learn to shift around it. I almost never notice it anymore.
I've put 1200 miles on now. I voted "only when car is cold". When the tranny is warm, no issues at all. Even then, when the tranny is cold, it's not too bad, and I can get around it with proper technique.
So I'm a DIY'er, but who will be the first to pull the tranny and polish all the synchro cones with a Dremel? LOL, not me...
So I'm a DIY'er, but who will be the first to pull the tranny and polish all the synchro cones with a Dremel? LOL, not me...
Because I've changed to BG Synchroshift.
It feels better at redline and high speed shifts, but you can still make it notch into second and third, but only on upshifts.
Redline fluid in an Evo gearbox is supposed to be a bad thing, but I'm sure you know this.
If ~70% of the transmissions with OEM fluid have this behavior and mine still does with BG, its a design issue. We just have to learn to shift around it. I almost never notice it anymore.
It feels better at redline and high speed shifts, but you can still make it notch into second and third, but only on upshifts.
Redline fluid in an Evo gearbox is supposed to be a bad thing, but I'm sure you know this.
If ~70% of the transmissions with OEM fluid have this behavior and mine still does with BG, its a design issue. We just have to learn to shift around it. I almost never notice it anymore.
Anyhow, I've only been driving my X for about 200 miles now and I do think that the shifter feels notchy. Many people are claiming to actually be grinding - Is this an actual crunch / grind, or are you assuming the notchyness is a grind? I came from a VIII that had synchro's go bad in 2nd-4th, so trust me, I know what a Grind feels like. So far, the X tranny feels 10X better than my VIII. Even my Shep tranny still had a slight notchy feel.
Someone needs to just buy 5 quarts of Diaqueen super multi-gear oil (6 speed) and the regular 5 speed mitsu gear oil. - The fluids used in the VIII's, IX's, and MR's. Try them out and see what happens. The weights are not perfectly identical, but they're close enough. The fluid in the VIII sucked in the VIII, but it could work in the X.






