View Poll Results: EVO X Transmission Problem POLL
Notchy, grinding, or difficult to engage gears (all the time)



689
40.08%
Notchy, grinding, or difficult to engage gears (only when car is cold)



646
37.58%
Difficult to engage Reverse gear (cold or warm)



146
8.49%
No problems at all



238
13.85%
Voters: 1719. You may not vote on this poll
The official Evo X notchy/grinding transmission thread
Seth, if you read my post then you would see that I never said the evo tranny was anything like the STi mechanially, I said that it was similar to the STI's IN THE RESPECT THAT IT'S PICKY ABOUT THE TYPE OF FLUID THAT IS USED. I know damn well about the differences in design as I've OWNED BOTH CARS and am no newbie cars. The STi has a longitudinal mounted engine and a tranny that is directly in line with the motor like a typical RWD based design. The EVO uses a transverse mounted engine and a transfer case to send power to the rear. Please read my posts more carefully next time before firing off at me. Oh, and call me back biotch!!!
Last edited by STi2EvoX; May 19, 2008 at 03:50 PM.
Redline fluid is not a bad thing. In fact, the experts like Shep and TRE recommend using MT-90 and MTL. However, for a GL-3 specified tranny, like the X, Redline does not make an equivalent I don't think.
Anyhow, I've only been driving my X for about 200 miles now and I do think that the shifter feels notchy. Many people are claiming to actually be grinding - Is this an actual crunch / grind, or are you assuming the notchyness is a grind? I came from a VIII that had synchro's go bad in 2nd-4th, so trust me, I know what a Grind feels like. So far, the X tranny feels 10X better than my VIII. Even my Shep tranny still had a slight notchy feel.
Someone needs to just buy 5 quarts of Diaqueen super multi-gear oil (6 speed) and the regular 5 speed mitsu gear oil. - The fluids used in the VIII's, IX's, and MR's. Try them out and see what happens. The weights are not perfectly identical, but they're close enough. The fluid in the VIII sucked in the VIII, but it could work in the X.
Anyhow, I've only been driving my X for about 200 miles now and I do think that the shifter feels notchy. Many people are claiming to actually be grinding - Is this an actual crunch / grind, or are you assuming the notchyness is a grind? I came from a VIII that had synchro's go bad in 2nd-4th, so trust me, I know what a Grind feels like. So far, the X tranny feels 10X better than my VIII. Even my Shep tranny still had a slight notchy feel.
Someone needs to just buy 5 quarts of Diaqueen super multi-gear oil (6 speed) and the regular 5 speed mitsu gear oil. - The fluids used in the VIII's, IX's, and MR's. Try them out and see what happens. The weights are not perfectly identical, but they're close enough. The fluid in the VIII sucked in the VIII, but it could work in the X.
Seth, if you read my post then you would see that I never said the evo tranny was anything like the STi mechanially, I said that it was similar to the STI's IN THE RESPECT THAT IT'S PICKY ABOUT THE TYPE OF FLUID THAT IS USED. I know damn well about the differences in design as I've OWNED BOTH CARS and am no newbie cars. The STi has a longitudinal mounted engine and a tranny that is directly in line with the motor like a typical RWD based design. The EVO uses a transverse mounted engine and a transfer case to send power to the rear. Please read my posts more carefully next time before firing off at me. Oh, and call me back biotch!!!
On top of that, a couple of members said that Mitsu was testing different fluids, but to no avail. They came back saying that the box was operating as intended. Now ask yourself this- Would Mitsu rather replace fluid to those who complain, or admit that the new transmission has notchy 2nd and 3rd shifts and do a recall? Of course they are not going to recall the transmission! They are not in good financial shape to start with, and this would cost a ton. Moreover, you have people on here who disagree if there it is even a problem or not.
The corporate stance on this one, as your many ignored phone calls to them prove, is to put their heads in the sand and hope the problem of irate people go away.
There is no fluid problem. I hope against hope that there could be, but this is my fourth Mitsubishi in spite of their customer service. I know well what to expect.
I know I owe you a call, but I am snowed on the phone here at work, and at home my daughter is currently on an antibiotic that her stomach... uhh... doesn't like. I'll buzz you up soon.
Baby it when it's cold and then do quicker shifts once it's warmed up. Don't slam gears or anything like that, but if you shift quickly and decisevly then it will drop right in without any crunchiness. I drove noizes car and it was the exact same as mine. He likes to pause while the shifter is passing through neutral and kinda two step it, but he is still shifting at a somewhat quick pace after the pause. Our techniques are similar and net the same result. When it's cold there's just no way around it. Shift it super gently and very slowly. So slowly in fact that the rpms will drop substantially between shifts. Just give a blip of the throttle while the clutch is still in to make up for this and you'll be fine.
Last edited by STi2EvoX; May 19, 2008 at 07:59 PM.
For me the technique is:
1) hold the knob firmly and purposefully, direct the knob along the appropriate path, don't let the shifter just glide along the sides of the "gate"
2) shift fast "out" of gear 1 or 2 until the shifter gets to the "middle" of the throw
3) slow down slightly though the "middle" of the throw
4) shift quickly into the next gear
I do not have to do this from 3->4 or 4->5. I do have to do this from 1->2 and 2->3 while the trans is cold. When the trans is warm, after driving for a while, the "slow part though the middle of the throw" is nearly the same speed as shifting out of the gear, as long as I hold the knob and direct it's path, rather than slide it along out of one gear and into the next.
1) hold the knob firmly and purposefully, direct the knob along the appropriate path, don't let the shifter just glide along the sides of the "gate"
2) shift fast "out" of gear 1 or 2 until the shifter gets to the "middle" of the throw
3) slow down slightly though the "middle" of the throw
4) shift quickly into the next gear
I do not have to do this from 3->4 or 4->5. I do have to do this from 1->2 and 2->3 while the trans is cold. When the trans is warm, after driving for a while, the "slow part though the middle of the throw" is nearly the same speed as shifting out of the gear, as long as I hold the knob and direct it's path, rather than slide it along out of one gear and into the next.
I can go diaginally from 2nd to 3rd no problem as long as it's shifted quickly or really slowly. Nowhere in between though. If the shift speed is in the medium paced range it's crunchy. I've tried what you are talking about, but that's unnecessary and doesn't make any difference on mine. Plus, going diagonally is the normal techniqe for a manual car, as it's quicker and that's what the gate is for anyway, to guide the shifter in place even when there's a bit of an angle on entry. Either way, glad your technique works for you. I think it's hilarious that we all have to have any "techniques" to have this car shift properly. It's ridiculous, but it's a first year car. What did we expect?
For me the technique is:
1) hold the knob firmly and purposefully, direct the knob along the appropriate path, don't let the shifter just glide along the sides of the "gate"
2) shift fast "out" of gear 1 or 2 until the shifter gets to the "middle" of the throw
3) slow down slightly though the "middle" of the throw
4) shift quickly into the next gear
I do not have to do this from 3->4 or 4->5. I do have to do this from 1->2 and 2->3 while the trans is cold. When the trans is warm, after driving for a while, the "slow part though the middle of the throw" is nearly the same speed as shifting out of the gear, as long as I hold the knob and direct it's path, rather than slide it along out of one gear and into the next.
1) hold the knob firmly and purposefully, direct the knob along the appropriate path, don't let the shifter just glide along the sides of the "gate"
2) shift fast "out" of gear 1 or 2 until the shifter gets to the "middle" of the throw
3) slow down slightly though the "middle" of the throw
4) shift quickly into the next gear
I do not have to do this from 3->4 or 4->5. I do have to do this from 1->2 and 2->3 while the trans is cold. When the trans is warm, after driving for a while, the "slow part though the middle of the throw" is nearly the same speed as shifting out of the gear, as long as I hold the knob and direct it's path, rather than slide it along out of one gear and into the next.
Is this pretty much a dead issue for MMC? Deal with it, we're not fixing what isn't broke, kind of thing? Or are they just unsure?
What I have found that 2nd gear is notchy almost 75% of the time. All other gears are good. As long as I'm not slowly wearing out my synchros like I did on my VIII, I can deal with it.
What I have found that 2nd gear is notchy almost 75% of the time. All other gears are good. As long as I'm not slowly wearing out my synchros like I did on my VIII, I can deal with it.
I wonder how much damage it's really doing when it crunches. I know it can't be good, but I really hope that it's barking more than it's biting, if ya know what I mean. I am pretty dead set on trading my car in on a 2009 when they come out and getting rid of this problematic 1st year car. I still can't get over how cheap the interior materials are in this car. These seats are really supportive but good god are they terribly made. C'mon mitsu, these things pop staples out where those horribly cheap plastic harness hole covers are, and it just looks and feels cheap. I can't believe that leather isn't standard on this 35k dollar car. Inexcusable.
I took mine in again today, and there is a TSB on the tranny now, but it says that they are looking into the issue, and to not do anything with the cars, just report it to MMA.
So if your having the issue, take it in, the more people who complain the better.
So if your having the issue, take it in, the more people who complain the better.
I still can't get over how cheap the interior materials are in this car. These seats are really supportive but good god are they terribly made. C'mon mitsu, these things pop staples out where those horribly cheap plastic harness hole covers are, and it just looks and feels cheap. I can't believe that leather isn't standard on this 35k dollar car. Inexcusable.
God I hate MMA. All these issues and they don't give a flying ****










