Thanks for the support senate!!! I think I might just do that, I will take the 4G63 gasket and make some outlines to see how it will line up I should be able to tell if there will be any leaks b4 doing anything permanent.

 

Ok my poor thread is dying lol guess I need to get my butt in gear. Anyways I am curious, I will be getting arp head studs for sure... how well would my stock head gasket hold up if I ran @ 8-10 psi daily driven? Also from what I am understanding using the forge WGA with the 5-10 psi spring without a MBC it will be a default 5psi correct? Or is does this just depend on how you hook up the vaccuum lines? I plan on starting off at 5psi and tune that then up the boost and retune etc. I believe this will be the best way for me to learn how to tune. Funny thing is I tried to get some of my buddies to throw in like $20 ea to help me get the tactrix cable (I said I would give them a mild tune after I trusted myself with my own of course) and most didnt even reply and ones that did were like "oh my buddy down the street knows how to do it" basically laughing at me. Well well as I have been showing them the dynograph sim and the ecuflash and low a behold there all full of S*** and there getting a little more ancy for me to do their cars. Sucks for them cause now ima charge them like $100 if I even decide to do it I might just laugh in their face when it comes time Ok back on track got a little for a sec. Basically if my stocker is only gonna hold for maybe a year I figure since I am going to be changing the timing belt for sure that I might as well do the HG swap right then. I believe this monday I will pull off my stock Intake mani and port match it.

 

You'd have 5psi with that spring. Well, 4psi actually after the 1psi drop through the intercooler and piping. Same one I had in my setup.

I would be careful in doing a bunch of tunes for your friends if you aren't well versed in it. If one of their engines decides to go, you'll be the first one to blame.

The stock headgasket will be fine for 8-10psi ONLY if you have ARP head studs installed. Without the studs, nothing is certain. Do not reuse your current head gasket. Replace it with with a fresh OEM one when you install the head studs. Torque the head studs down according to ARP's instructions in the order found in the FSM.

 

Ok thats what I thought but wanted to be sure... I will have the ARP headstuds however just didnt realize I have to pull the head off the install them I never reuse a head gasket as once it has been heat sealed its worthless when separated. No worries with tuning other rides I dont ever leave much to chance, even IF I decide to tune there car as I might tell them to get there own it wouldnt be for at least a year or two after installing my turbo, by then I will have a good grasp on things for sure. Another thing I am concerned with is right after installing all of this how should I go about my initial tuning? What would be safe driving while doing the intial logs to see where I stand? Should I basically just be watching the WB and EGT (if I get the egt) and knocksums? Should I even go into boost? Maybe I should at least rescale the injectors to 440cc before my intial startup?

 

Well there are 2 ways to install the new Headstuds, right right way and the wrong way. The right way would be to pull off the head, clean it up and try to make sure no oil gets into the stud holes, and hand tighten all of the studs in, put on the new HG, and place the head back on... then there is a certain order to tighten all the bolts onto the studs, at a torque of like 15-18.. my studs came with no instructions, this is what i have gathered from the Evo forums for installing headstuds.

The other (wrong way), alot of people do this way actually, doesn't mean its right, but they take out the stock studs and replace them, tighten them down one by one. the head is never removed. but its really easy to drip oil into the holes this way, and its a B to try to get it out.

So now that i got my manifold welded, i need oil lines, a new UEGO sensor, a new HG.... and a tactrix cable. I have a new job i am starting next monday, so ill have enough money to get it up and going again real quick!

 

Sweet Knight you should post some pics of that mani when you get time I wanna see how she looks!!! Thanks for the info on the studs man I am going to get my Timing belt water pump HG and studs and get those put it before I install the turbo also want to get my clutch and Flywheel and install that too that way when it comes time all I have to do is concentrate on the turbo install itself. BTW Ive been meaning to ask where you got your WB for so cheap.

 

I really should replace all my belts too, when I did my last oil change they said my serpintine belt, had a crack in it. So ya, new belts would be good all around. How much do new belts and hg run from the dealership? Or is there a better place to get them?

The Uego I got with the gauge package I bought from Omarboy a few months back. I paid 180, got autometer boost, oil pressure, and egt, Aem uego, and greddy turbo timer. The bad... The uego needed a new sensor, and a new cable to run from the gauge to the sensor, the oil pressure gauge is missing the sensor, and the turbo timer doesn't have a harness.
Good deal none the less!

I'll post some pics of the manifold in a few days, my brother and I were really bored last night, and decided it would be a good idea to go drive up to San Francisco to visit some friends, and go check out my moms new house. When I get home I'll post um up!
Can you replace the clutch and flywheel yourself?

 

I usually get my parts from one of two places either mitsu or schucks o'reily auto parts, thats just me though. Not sure from mitsu but through schucks timing belt is about $50 and serpentine is anywhere from $6 or $18 for the alternator belt and $24 for the AC pwr steering belt.

Ya I can do my own clutch and flywheel no problem. It helps that I am a mechanic on the side of my normal job so I have all the proper tools and a garage to do it in I have done full size ford trannies by myself... not the funnest thing to do definately recommend a second helper but can be done for sure. One nice thing about transaxles is I can take my engine hoist and strap it diagonally underneath it and 90% of the time will lift it perfectly level right up then you can still swing wherever to line up the spline shaft to your clutch disk.

 

I dont think you'll have clearance issues with a second flange. I have a 4g94 flange welded to the evo turbo manifold's flange on my setup. I still have a good amount of room from the radiator and the water pipe. (I am using only a push fan though as the stock fans had to be removed.)

 

Is that all you had to do? Then just drill out the bolt holes to match? Were you able to use a stock evo dp?

 

Ok so I bought a brand new megan Evo 9 manifold off a member on here I plan on welding some supports to help keep the cracks away. Should I just get the 4G94 flange from RRM? I know I have seen the flanges elsewhere but cant seem to locate them right now or I would past a link. RRM's is $79 and the other place I seen was $39 if anyone out there know the site I am thinking of maybe they can post it?? I dont know the specs of the other flange and am thinking lower quality probably and not a good idea. Also would This work for my complete oil feed with no other parts needed?

 

I'm using the stock evo dp... I'll try to get a pic of the mani later...

 

Sweet thats what I was hoping I could do, did you have to shave your turbo to clear the water pipe.

 

go here instead of rrm for the flange http://bmcrace.com/4g93hf.html

 

Hey I think that is the same site I seen before, I might just do that.